front strut removal

E28 technical advice asked and given! Troubleshooting, modifications and more.
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shoff535
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 07, 2007
Location: Dallas, TX

front strut removal

Post by shoff535 »

I need to replace the strut inserts on my 535. I got the strut out, removed the spring, but am having a devil of a time loosening the collar nut that secures the cartridge. the units coming out are Bilstein sports and they are being replaced by newer sports. the collar nut has the notches for a spanner (which I dont have), I have a couple of large chanel lock pliers that i am using. I also soaked the nut down with PB Blaster. Is there anything I am missing, other than not enough "oomph". Also, depending on how tight a grip the strut housing do I run the risk of "crushing" it or putting a divit in it that will make reinsertion of the new cartridge difficult?
TIA
Steve
BATESY
Posts: 428
Joined: Jul 06, 2008
Location: Renton, WA

Post by BATESY »

I use a pair of big ol channel locks. I usually loosen the strut insert when the whole strut and housing are still in the car. Makes it way easier. Other wise you can put it in a vise, just dont tighten it down like crazy, Its pretty hard to damage the housing and the outer shell of the insert. When do get it all put back together you have to tighten the crap out of the strut insert collar nut, otherwise you will get a thumping noise when going over bumps.
Bimmerguy2002
Posts: 11973
Joined: Oct 03, 2007
Location: Lodi, California

Post by Bimmerguy2002 »

pipe wrench with exhaust pipe as a cheater if you cant get it to budge
Mike W.
Posts: 27977
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: California Whine Country

Post by Mike W. »

Bimmerguy2002 wrote:pipe wrench with exhaust pipe as a cheater if you cant get it to budge
Spoken like a veteran of the yards. :laugh: :up:
527ilake
Posts: 44
Joined: Jul 29, 2011

Post by 527ilake »

Bimmerguy2002 wrote:pipe wrench with exhaust pipe as a cheater if you cant get it to budge
The man speaks the truth. i used a 36" and a 24'' with 3' of cheater pipe. They where a bastard.
Blue Shadow
Posts: 10532
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: SE PA

Post by Blue Shadow »

BATESY wrote:I usually loosen the strut insert when the whole strut and housing are still in the car.
This is the key to the easy way for the shade tree mechanic.

Pipe wrench will work but the big channel locks fit between the coils better to start the loosening. Half a turn is enough until the unit is out of the car and has the spring removed.

With the unit out of the car, getting the 100+ foot pounds needed makes it difficult to hold the strut while applying the torque.
JW in VaBeach
Posts: 670
Joined: Aug 23, 2008
Location: Virginia Beach Va.

post topic

Post by JW in VaBeach »

Heat in combo with the pipe wrench
shoff535
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 07, 2007
Location: Dallas, TX

Post by shoff535 »

all good suggestions. I really wish I'd thought (known) to have cracked it loose while still on the car (I still have the drivers side to do though!). I usually loosen the top strut nut (inside the recess of the bearing plate before removal from the car, just never thought to go after the retaining ring at the same time.

Also, definitely will give the propane torch trick a shot..hopefully, I can find my cheater bar because the biggest pipe wrench I have is ~18" or so.

hopefully I can get started here after a bit.

thanks again
Steve
a
Posts: 12473
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Marshfield ,MA

Post by a »

I use a blunt chisel or a big dull screw driver as a drift to start the collar nut.
TSMacNeil
Posts: 7014
Joined: Jan 22, 2009
Location: Phoenix, Arizona

Post by TSMacNeil »

a wrote:I use a blunt chisel or a big dull screw driver as a drift to start the collar nut.
^^this, especially since it's off the car.
C.R. Krieger
Posts: 14507
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Halfway up the left side of Lake Michigan
Contact:

Post by C.R. Krieger »

All good suggestions. As for the pipe wrench, mine is only a 12", but with a 2-foot extension on it, it works just fine. I've used the Big Damn screwdriver trick to tighten the collar nut after it worked loose on the car.
shoff535
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 07, 2007
Location: Dallas, TX

Post by shoff535 »

Completed. with the strut off the car, I used one 18" pipe wrench on the strut with the wrench on the concrete floor, the other 18" pipe wrench I used on the collar nut and it it came off quite easily. I used the same technique for the other side and it was just as easy. the new Bilstiens (sports) have a blue dust shield, just like the ones I bought years ago for my e30, the units that I took off had the black dust shield, also, the top of the cartridge where it threads in to the bearing plate on the old ones had the 8mm hex head, whereas the new cartridges had an allen head (which is a much needed improvement). any idea when Bilstein mad the change?..just curious.

Steve
Bonsaibacker
Posts: 979
Joined: Oct 26, 2017
Location: Fleming Island FL

Re: front strut removal

Post by Bonsaibacker »

I am removing some Bilsteins from the front strut towers to sell. Nut came off easy enough (not rusted- haven't been on the car long at all) but the strut will not come out of the tube. It will spin but it seems as though the oil (recommended in some threads, warned against in another) has created a vacuum so that the strut will not slide out. Inverterd and let it sit for a couple of days to see if the oil would run out but that did not help (no oil seeped out).

Thoughts?
tn535i
Posts: 5590
Joined: Jul 14, 2006
Location: Middle Tennessee

Re: front strut removal

Post by tn535i »

Bonsaibacker wrote:I am removing some Bilsteins from the front strut towers to sell. Nut came off easy enough (not rusted- haven't been on the car long at all) but the strut will not come out of the tube. It will spin but it seems as though the oil (recommended in some threads, warned against in another) has created a vacuum so that the strut will not slide out. Inverterd and let it sit for a couple of days to see if the oil would run out but that did not help (no oil seeped out).

Thoughts?
Sounds more like the ID at the top of the strut tube is damaged or flared in a little. The oil vacuum if there should not be difficult to overcome. Heat might help in this case if it expands the tube slightly and builds some pressure inside to help push it out.
Bonsaibacker
Posts: 979
Joined: Oct 26, 2017
Location: Fleming Island FL

Re: front strut removal

Post by Bonsaibacker »

tn535i wrote:Sounds more like the ID at the top of the strut tube is damaged or flared in a little. The oil vacuum if there should not be difficult to overcome. Heat might help in this case if it expands the tube slightly and builds some pressure inside to help push it out.
Thanks TN.
It is not exclusive to one side or the other- both are not coming out. Will try some gentle heat.
Thank you.
DABIMZ
Posts: 46
Joined: Jul 03, 2018
Location: Ohio

Re: front strut removal

Post by DABIMZ »

I just did mine not too long ago and they were a pain, the collar nuts ended up getting pretty rounded trying to chisel and use channel locks on them. I ended up using a grinder to flatten two sides of the collar nut and used a big ol' pipe wrench, in a vise to break them free. That worked like a charm.
dsmith
Posts: 2363
Joined: Jan 20, 2012
Location: Charleston, SC

Re: front strut removal

Post by dsmith »

Reinstall the spring and slowly remove the spring compressor to pull it out, without the collar nut attached. I had to let one sit overnight once and it popped out.
tn535i
Posts: 5590
Joined: Jul 14, 2006
Location: Middle Tennessee

Re: front strut removal

Post by tn535i »

I suppose if you are really rough on the collar nut you could end up with tube slightly damaged or out of round, then of course it would be difficult to get the strut cartridge out. Maybe some of the reasons anything newer I see has moved away from this design, but probably cost really.
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