front strut removal
front strut removal
I need to replace the strut inserts on my 535. I got the strut out, removed the spring, but am having a devil of a time loosening the collar nut that secures the cartridge. the units coming out are Bilstein sports and they are being replaced by newer sports. the collar nut has the notches for a spanner (which I dont have), I have a couple of large chanel lock pliers that i am using. I also soaked the nut down with PB Blaster. Is there anything I am missing, other than not enough "oomph". Also, depending on how tight a grip the strut housing do I run the risk of "crushing" it or putting a divit in it that will make reinsertion of the new cartridge difficult?
TIA
Steve
TIA
Steve
I use a pair of big ol channel locks. I usually loosen the strut insert when the whole strut and housing are still in the car. Makes it way easier. Other wise you can put it in a vise, just dont tighten it down like crazy, Its pretty hard to damage the housing and the outer shell of the insert. When do get it all put back together you have to tighten the crap out of the strut insert collar nut, otherwise you will get a thumping noise when going over bumps.
-
Bimmerguy2002
- Posts: 11973
- Joined: Oct 03, 2007
- Location: Lodi, California
-
Blue Shadow
- Posts: 10532
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: SE PA
This is the key to the easy way for the shade tree mechanic.BATESY wrote:I usually loosen the strut insert when the whole strut and housing are still in the car.
Pipe wrench will work but the big channel locks fit between the coils better to start the loosening. Half a turn is enough until the unit is out of the car and has the spring removed.
With the unit out of the car, getting the 100+ foot pounds needed makes it difficult to hold the strut while applying the torque.
-
JW in VaBeach
- Posts: 670
- Joined: Aug 23, 2008
- Location: Virginia Beach Va.
post topic
Heat in combo with the pipe wrench
all good suggestions. I really wish I'd thought (known) to have cracked it loose while still on the car (I still have the drivers side to do though!). I usually loosen the top strut nut (inside the recess of the bearing plate before removal from the car, just never thought to go after the retaining ring at the same time.
Also, definitely will give the propane torch trick a shot..hopefully, I can find my cheater bar because the biggest pipe wrench I have is ~18" or so.
hopefully I can get started here after a bit.
thanks again
Steve
Also, definitely will give the propane torch trick a shot..hopefully, I can find my cheater bar because the biggest pipe wrench I have is ~18" or so.
hopefully I can get started here after a bit.
thanks again
Steve
-
C.R. Krieger
- Posts: 14507
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: Halfway up the left side of Lake Michigan
- Contact:
Completed. with the strut off the car, I used one 18" pipe wrench on the strut with the wrench on the concrete floor, the other 18" pipe wrench I used on the collar nut and it it came off quite easily. I used the same technique for the other side and it was just as easy. the new Bilstiens (sports) have a blue dust shield, just like the ones I bought years ago for my e30, the units that I took off had the black dust shield, also, the top of the cartridge where it threads in to the bearing plate on the old ones had the 8mm hex head, whereas the new cartridges had an allen head (which is a much needed improvement). any idea when Bilstein mad the change?..just curious.
Steve
Steve
-
Bonsaibacker
- Posts: 979
- Joined: Oct 26, 2017
- Location: Fleming Island FL
Re: front strut removal
I am removing some Bilsteins from the front strut towers to sell. Nut came off easy enough (not rusted- haven't been on the car long at all) but the strut will not come out of the tube. It will spin but it seems as though the oil (recommended in some threads, warned against in another) has created a vacuum so that the strut will not slide out. Inverterd and let it sit for a couple of days to see if the oil would run out but that did not help (no oil seeped out).
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Re: front strut removal
Sounds more like the ID at the top of the strut tube is damaged or flared in a little. The oil vacuum if there should not be difficult to overcome. Heat might help in this case if it expands the tube slightly and builds some pressure inside to help push it out.Bonsaibacker wrote:I am removing some Bilsteins from the front strut towers to sell. Nut came off easy enough (not rusted- haven't been on the car long at all) but the strut will not come out of the tube. It will spin but it seems as though the oil (recommended in some threads, warned against in another) has created a vacuum so that the strut will not slide out. Inverterd and let it sit for a couple of days to see if the oil would run out but that did not help (no oil seeped out).
Thoughts?
-
Bonsaibacker
- Posts: 979
- Joined: Oct 26, 2017
- Location: Fleming Island FL
Re: front strut removal
Thanks TN.tn535i wrote:Sounds more like the ID at the top of the strut tube is damaged or flared in a little. The oil vacuum if there should not be difficult to overcome. Heat might help in this case if it expands the tube slightly and builds some pressure inside to help push it out.
It is not exclusive to one side or the other- both are not coming out. Will try some gentle heat.
Thank you.
Re: front strut removal
I just did mine not too long ago and they were a pain, the collar nuts ended up getting pretty rounded trying to chisel and use channel locks on them. I ended up using a grinder to flatten two sides of the collar nut and used a big ol' pipe wrench, in a vise to break them free. That worked like a charm.
Re: front strut removal
Reinstall the spring and slowly remove the spring compressor to pull it out, without the collar nut attached. I had to let one sit overnight once and it popped out.
Re: front strut removal
I suppose if you are really rough on the collar nut you could end up with tube slightly damaged or out of round, then of course it would be difficult to get the strut cartridge out. Maybe some of the reasons anything newer I see has moved away from this design, but probably cost really.

