Should I be the guinea pig and test this thing out?
I am planning on putting in a new in-tank fuel pump and this is one of those "while I'm in there" type of scenarios. My fuel level gauge has always been wonky so I figure this will fix it. Although, I have read that cleaning the stock fuel level unit with some alcohol will clean off some debris that may cause it to get stuck. I just want to avoid having to go back and forth chasing an issue if I can fix it on the first try.
Any suggestions?
Last edited by thrty8street on Jul 19, 2023 4:06 PM, edited 2 times in total.
It might be alright. If the price is worth a gamble, might be worth a shot. I'm sure it won't match the original in terms of quality and longevity, I've never had one fail. A good used one should be easy to come by, that's probably the best way to go unless people are trying to wring a bunch of money out of them.
OP: Just wondering if you tried out the URO unit, and what your experience was.
Pretty sure my fuel level sending unit has failed too, and am trying to decide which way to go: used or new replacement. As you noted, new OE ones are pricey.
LarryM wrote: Dec 12, 2024 12:43 AM
Yes, URO doesn't have a great rep. My inclination is always to go new OEM, but if I were to find a known-good used one I'd consider it.
I have heard of the bad rep for URO for years, way before buying an e28. When my tii was rear ended, forcing repairs and an eventual complete resto, I had to use various URO parts as a lot of OEM parts aren’t available. I have to say I’m pretty happy with the parts, mostly things like door weatherstripping and various rubber bits. I recently bought and installed a trunk seal from URO for my e28, and it fits perfectly. Hard to imagine the factory piece would be better.
I have no reason to defend URO, other than I haven’t had issues with their parts so far.
LarryM wrote: Dec 11, 2024 8:06 PM
OP: Just wondering if you tried out the URO unit, and what your experience was.
Pretty sure my fuel level sending unit has failed too, and am trying to decide which way to go: used or new replacement. As you noted, new OE ones are pricey.
I did not try the URO unit. The URO unit it currently priced at 135 - I almost feel like I should take one for the team just to try it out. I will update this thread if I go this route.
LarryM wrote: Dec 11, 2024 8:06 PM
OP: Just wondering if you tried out the URO unit, and what your experience was.
Pretty sure my fuel level sending unit has failed too, and am trying to decide which way to go: used or new replacement. As you noted, new OE ones are pricey.
I did not try the URO unit. The URO unit it currently priced at 135 - I almost feel like I should take one for the team just to try it out. I will update this thread if I go this route.
Are you having issues with your fuel gauge?
Since I purchased my car over 10 years ago my fuel gauge has never registered over 3/4 full, even just after a fill up. It’s a minor annoyance but something I’ve always wanted to take care of; other work on the car took priority.
There are some used sending units on eBay with asking prices of ~$150 but in the end I’ll probably just go with new. Hopefully they aren’t being outsourced to China like some other parts are now.
they are 100% made in China, but then again, the Continental/Siemens/VDO stuff is also all made in China today. i've ran a few of their fuel pumps over the years with no success. they work for about a year; i would imagine a fuel level sender having about the same length of longevity.
^^^ Thanks for pointing that out. After my experience with multiple Chinese-made heater valves and other parts over the years, no more.
I'll shop for used.
IIRC the unit itself seemed a bit lighter weight wise. Mostly I was suspicious of the new gasket, seemed less pliable. Other than that, nothing stood out.
It all went together as 2 factory units would, no seepage at the seals. It came with all needed nuts, washers, gasket. I'm expecting the el-cheapo pump itself to quit first, but for now that's ok too.
Oddly no final resolution, but there was a thread on First Fives a while ago about just replacing the wire inside the sending unit. And apparently the right wire was sourced.
^^^ Too bad there were no updates on that thread. I found that wire on Amazon and I'd be willing to try repairing my existing sending unit if it actually resolves the issue.
My original sender still worked fine. However, the level of corrosion present had eaten the pot metal of the top plate to half its size, and also eaten into the dead pump. 3 of the senders mounting holes were gone, and it was sealed with orange gasket maker. Obviously all new parts were in order.
I'm glad I got it done, I figure these new parts are several degrees less dangerous. I suspect others have uncovered that type of corrosion under that trunk plate....
Hi everyone, we sell quite a few of Fuel Tank Sending Unit 16 14 1 152 266 annually, which is covered by our two-year, unlimited mileage warranty. If anyone tries one and has any issues (please let us know via our website), we'll certainly be happy to get you taken care of with a warranty replacement. Hope that helps!
If yall are willing to stand behind your products and maintain a presence in the community, it goes a long way. Most aftermarket suppliers give zero shits, so we certainly appreciate it.
Appreciate URO Support chiming in.
I had made the decision to purchase a new BMW sending unit, which arrived a few days ago. It’s made by VDO with a BMW part number on it, and I was pleasantly surprised to see it was indeed “Made in Germany”. I installed it today and well, it works. For the first time in the 10+ years I’ve owned my car, the fuel gauge registers on the “full” mark (rather than 3/4 full) after a complete fill up.
URO Support" wrote: Feb 03, 2025 1:25 PM
Hi everyone, we sell quite a few of Fuel Tank Sending Unit 16 14 1 152 266 annually, which is covered by our two-year, unlimited mileage warranty. If anyone tries one and has any issues (please let us know via our website), we'll certainly be happy to get you taken care of with a warranty replacement. Hope that helps!
Tags: 16141152266, 16121153050, 16 12 1 153 050
I just ordered this unit. I will follow up with an update after installing it.
Just put the new unit in today. There is a noticeable difference in length between the two, not sure if this will affect anything, like reading empty sooner than it actually is.
URO’s website lists the oe BMW part number as interchangeable with this one.
I will report back with some feedback after driving for a few days.
Assuming the URO unit is shorter? If it's longer I doubt it will even fit in. If it's shorter the low fuel light will come on before it should and all readings are likely to be as if it was, I dunno, maybe a 14 gallon tank. Might, or might not still be ok, but it makes me arch an eyebrow.
Unless you have a euro tank in which case I have no idea.
xxx266 is shorter than xxx050. First one is more likely e30's and xxx050 is the right one to 70 liters e28 fuel tank. My car came with the shorter xxx266 when I bought it and the fuel gauge just goes to 3/4 when full. If the user wants to see full gas gauge when the tank is full, so the xxx050 is the solution.
Yes, the new URO 16141152266 unit is the shorter one. Unfortunately, the issue I was experiencing, persists. Details below.
And now, I have the fuel gauge does not read all the way full after filling up. See below.
My reason for changing the sending unit is to fix the fuel gauge needle from drastically moving when going up/down a hill or accelerating. I would like an accurate reading of my gauge. Any other suggestions of how to fix this?
Last edited by thrty8street on May 04, 2025 7:09 PM, edited 1 time in total.
thrty8street wrote: May 04, 2025 4:23 PM
Yes, the new URO 16121153050 unit is the shorter one. Unfortunately, the issue I was experiencing, persists. Details below.
And now, I have the fuel gauge does not read all the way full after filling up. See below.
My reason for changing the sending unit is to fix the fuel gauge needle from drastically moving when going up/down a hill or accelerating. I would like an accurate reading of my gauge. Any other suggestions of how to fix this?
I think that sudden movement is the lack of some resistor or a bad one in some part of the gauge or circuit plate....not sure which one but here there are more than one electronics expert who can lead you in a solution.....