Frybrid 524td wrote:Find out what seal kit was used on the injector pump rebuild. Most likely buna but if you're lucky they used viton seals which would allow you to run biodiesel.{To add to this the ad for my car stated the pump had been rebuilt. Ask if yours has if so the above apply's}
The car should have cruise control, mine does. Maybe the Euro versions do not.{Mine does not}
Obviously look at the usual E28 rust out points: rocker panels, around the strut towers, spare tire well, etc.
See if you can pop the valve cover off and inspect the camshaft before buying the car. The camshaft is a high wear part on this engine.
The M21 uses a timing belt, not a "chain." Since the writer of the ad failed to make the correct distinction, I'd question whether the timing belt has been replaced. If it was indeed replaced, ask if the timing belt tensioner and water pump were replaced at the same time as the belt. These three should be changed at the same time.
See if it has an EGR system in place. If so, find out if/when the intake manifold and valves were last cleaned out.
Find out if the injector nozzles have ever been replaced and calibrated/pop tested.
See how the engine runs when you unplug the #4 injector sensor. If the engine become a lot louder wth this unplugged, you know the #4 injector sensor is still working (which is good because they run around $400).
How's the turbo? Remove the air box and see if there is a lot of play in the turbo shaft.
See how buggy the instrument cluster is, they usually have quirks.
Find out if he has run any alternative fuels in the past. If he has, question him thoroughly about his filtering/dewatering and use habits. If someone doesn't do his homework before going the alt. fuel route, he can cause excessive engine coking/wear and disintegrating rubber that will be pawned off on the next owner.
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Really?tsmall07 wrote:Look for a cracked head. Don't ever floor it or you might crack the head. BTDT. Otherwise, it is a very pleasant car to drive on the highway. I thought about getting one for a while.
Frybrid 524td wrote:Yes, between the cylinders and coolant passages as well as between the intake and exhaust valves. You won't be able to see the cracks without removing the cylinder head. Check the oil and coolant to see if there is any mixing of fluids.sleeperwagon wrote:Is there an obvious where the heads crack?
Lincoln Turbodiesel wrote:... you need a good cleaning ...Try 2 cans of Lubro Moly diesel purge.
This stuff really works ....I use it every fuel filter change 20,000 mi. Run two cans through.......Follow the directions....
http://dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm
Change you fuel filter ..it will turn Black!
http://www.amazon.com/Lubro-Moly-Diesel ... B002PEGAJ4
Filter info Here: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=71 ... hlight=oilFrybrid 524td wrote:Note: you will need to change your diesel filter after using this stuff
gidgaf wrote:The "usual rust spots" need to be sanded and painted. Some folk have gone to truck bed liner paint. First they got the rockers, the inner fenders, and a few pockets and pillars. They painted the inner shell (all that under the carpet metal), the trunk, and most reachable spots under the car get wire brushed and bed liner coated. No more rust.
I was thinking about putting in a 2.93 or 2.91 LSD. Think this would be worth it? Would it change the speedo?rexmo wrote:ETK say US is 325, Euro 315.
I think I am also going to install a early obc.Lubro Moly Diesel Purge.sleeperwagon wrote:I am looking for fluid information for replacing all the fluids and what are some trusted brands for injector system cleaners.
The idea behind this thread is to create a place for new 524td owners with similar goals as me to find information. My plan is to compile information from the archives(as I have time/need the information) and discus how well the information applys/works, along with documenting what I have done to my car and how I found it to work. Sure some of the information is there but it is not that easy to find.Frybrid 524td wrote:Lubro Moly Diesel Purge.sleeperwagon wrote:I am looking for fluid information for replacing all the fluids and what are some trusted brands for injector system cleaners.
Search "baselining" in tech talk and you'll find plenty to do to your car. Much of it is gasoline-specific but there is plenty of crossover.
Search, search, search.
FWIW all of this information is in the archives; there's no need for a new thread.
So I am looking at picking up a parts car.
Thanks for the incite, is there anything other then less acceleration I should expect from changing the diff? Will my speedo change?altus22 wrote:There are 2.79:1 differentials available. That would increase your mileage more. You should also have your injectors pop-tested and possibly replace your injector nozzles. This will lead to even fueling between cylinders and better power/economy. Advancing the IP a little and using lower viscosity synthetic diesel engine oil will also gain you a couple of efficiency points.
I like where this is going! I was thinking about getting a aluminum skid plate built instead of the factory tray as the roads up here are horrible and that oil pan is low. Do you guys think this would effect cooling?philip1 wrote:Aero will help a ton.these cars have a .4cd. If you don't have the factory under tray for the engine I'd find one. I would also look into an air dam. Those two will drop your cd by .02 add in a slight ride height drop and you have knocked another .02 off. It doesn't sound like much but .04 reduction in drag coefficient without major changes is huge.
Save some cash and avoid eBay. He sells the same setup here on the board. http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=83201sleeperwagon wrote:When I change the springs, struts and shocks out I plan on installing this kit as well:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E24- ... 690wt_1161
Good to know!Frybrid 524td wrote:Save some cash and avoid eBay. He sells the same setup here on the board. http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=83201sleeperwagon wrote:When I change the springs, struts and shocks out I plan on installing this kit as well:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E24- ... 690wt_1161
Front Bilstein shocks have internal bump stops. The rears use external ones. You'll need to change your upper strut mounts in order to use Bilsteins as well. The TD mounts won't work.
The only reason I thought about using the HD's is I can get a set of rears for $100.Frybrid 524td wrote:I thought you didn't want Bilstein HDs? You'll want Sports if you're going to use Eibachs.
Thanks!Frybrid 524td wrote:Then add all new seals and gaskets to your list. The switch to synthetic will likely cause leaks.BradM wrote:Not on the list but I plan on changing all of the fluids to synthetic.
Really?tsmall07 wrote:Look for a cracked head. Don't ever floor it or you might crack the head. BTDT. Otherwise, it is a very pleasant car to drive on the highway. I thought about getting one for a while.
It's not the viscosity of the oil that will allow it to bypass the seals. Synthetic oils will shrink seals that are accustomed to non-synthetic oil. I thought I could get away without changing my rear main seal when I made the switch to synthetic. I did however, replace all the other, easier to access seals (lower timing cover gasket, crank shaft seal, intermediate shaft seal, cam shaft seal, oil pan gasket). Now my rear main noticeably leaks so I'll be pulling the trans to replace that seal in the near futureBradM wrote:The synthetic oil I am planning on using is diesel oil and is a bit thicker then normal synthetic so I might not have to many problems...
The rear main seal did not leak until shortly after switching to synthetic oil. Spend some time over at BITOG and learn all about sythetic vs. dino.
. My plan with the rims is to paint the center gold(undecided on shade) and polish the lip.
