rust repair

[edlocke]

For those of you wanting to repair your common e28 rust areas...this thread may be some help to you. If you have any questions or need some advice don't hesitate to contact me.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=87200
This was removed from my right floor board....

[mooseheadm5]

Don't forget the weld-through primer and some good seam sealer.

[stuartinmn]

Looks familiar....

[edlocke]

Don't forget the weld-through primer and some good seam sealer.

I'll be covering in detail about primer/sealer when I get all my pieces cut and cleaned, sanded and primed with you got it "weld thru primer". Once everything is welded I'll POR-15 everything and then Seam seal....then spray with rock guard where appropriate.
Then I'm comin up to see you Paul so you can help me put my HVAC surround together...

[Jeremy]

Did you check the rear bumper brace that runs from the spare tire well to the rear bumper shock mount? With that amount of rust in the floorboard, I'm betting it's gone.

Jeremy

[wkohler]

I'm just going to throw a cover over the E12.

[edlocke]

Did you check the rear bumper brace that runs from the spare tire well to the rear bumper shock mount? With that amount of rust in the floorboard, I'm betting it's gone.

Jeremy

Wrong.....its in like new condition. I stripped the underside components of the car [see link for other pics of rusty areas] the car has minimal rust in the rear of the car....I'm thinking the right front windshield weather seal must've had a leak to sustain that type of rusting. The only rust in the rear of the car besides what is pictured was the left bumper shock attachment which is common to rusting. I dropped the gas tank and it was very clean as if the car came from Arizona. When the M car was factory assembled someone did a very nice job with the undercoating seam sealing of this car, the build sheet probably requested a nice under-spray knowing the car was going to NJ.
I'm very impressed in the over all condition of the body....yes the right front is a bit of a repair but once done the car is going to be in excellent condition body wise

That ugly piece of floor I removed was from a shitty repair some shop tried to pass off on one of the PO's. I showed my buddy [who owns the body-shop] the repair and he said thats common for a lot of shops to throw a patch over the hole and tell ya they fixed it right

[edlocke]

I'm just going to throw a cover over the E12.

"Cover" as in floor patch?

[Jeremy]

The only rust in the rear of the car besides what is pictured was the left bumper shock attachment which is common to rusting.

That's the area I was referring to. Sounds like it wasn't bad, good to hear.

[edlocke]

The only rust in the rear of the car besides what is pictured was the left bumper shock attachment which is common to rusting.

That's the area I was referring to. Sounds like it wasn't bad, good to hear.

Hey Jeremy, as you know that is the worst rust area for our cars....the shock surround was ugly with rust so I removed all traces of it.....I'm putting Euro bumpers on it so I won/t need it....I've made covers to bolt onto the shock mounts but I've decided not to weld shut the shock holes in case someone wants to restore it back to US specs, also I'm going to install a Alpina rear Valance which will cover the shock mounts.

[WilNJ]

Once everything is welded I'll POR-15 everything and then Seam seal....then spray with rock guard where appropriate.

I thought the POR-15 needed rust to adhere to.

[edlocke]

Once everything is welded I'll POR-15 everything and then Seam seal....then spray with rock guard where appropriate.

I thought the POR-15 needed rust to adhere to.

POR-15 is a 3 stage application....does not need rust to be applied but the surface needs to be ABSOLUTELY "etched" with their "prep and ready" when applied to smooth or new metal surfaces...... IT IS A 3 STAGE APPLICATION......it is time consuming but the results is regarded as the best on the market.

[craigb93]

The videos you linked to seemed to NOT use ANY metal protection which I thought was really short-cutting the job. The seam where the new floor pan was plug welded in place would look to invite corrosion where the two panels were sanded to bright metal then joined. No way the seam sealer won't have holidays now and then even if they turned it over and did the bottom too.
Excellent opportunity to use 'weld-thru' coating which you said you were doing.
Dick

[edlocke]

The videos you linked to seemed to NOT use ANY metal protection which I thought was really short-cutting the job. The seam where the new floor pan was plug welded in place would look to invite corrosion where the two panels were sanded to bright metal then joined. No way the seam sealer won't have holidays now and then even if they turned it over and did the bottom too.
Excellent opportunity to use 'weld-thru' coating which you said you were doing.
Dick

Great observation, he also doesn't seem to embrace rust applications or inhibitors?.... The link has some very hilarious often over the top vulgarity but offers an in-depth step by step procedure in handling rust issues. That being said you still need to educate yourself regarding thoroughness.

[craigb93]

I haven't tried to do any welding around/thru it but "Cold Galvanize" is an excellent product to apply where pieces are exposed and can rust or two pieces just bolted together.
It's all zinc with a little banana dope. (A quart can weighs 8 pounds.)

Dick

[erikk]

bought an '85 535i a while ago, as well as an '86 parts car. The 85 had a smashed up rear bumper, the 86 didn't, so off goes smashy and surprise surprise:



2 of the bolts snapped off, left and right sides of the bumper, and one has nowhere left to go.

Full sized pictures:
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