thinking about and possibly decided to unturbo.

alijonny · Post by **alijonny** » May 12, 2010 9:23 PM

So I have come this far with my turbo 535is turbo project and have become absolutely burnt out with it. I want to keep going, but I can't keep fooling myself. I am going back to school, I didn't have time to work on it at the shop in my spare time and I know I'm not going to have time for it once school starts up again.

The megasquirt is what is killing me and I don't know what i'm doing anymore. I'm fooling myself again thinking I am going to figure it out. I just have too much BS going on in life to get this straightened out.

So, I would like to know if anyone would be interested in my turbo parts and pieces in my kit including my megasquirt box. Or do I have some cool looking paperweights? I just want to go back to driving this car like I did about 2 years ago. It was fun back then, If anything I will spring for the TCD kit utilizing other means of ECU, but later, waay later.
I hate to do this, but I feel no other choice. I want to daily drive this car for my commute to school so the M5 doesn't get beat up.

I want input. My e28 and myself are nothing without mye28.com input. Please post your thoughts. Thanks again guys!

alijonny · Post by **alijonny** » May 12, 2010 9:28 PM

another thought is to keep the MS because it is so far along, but lose the turbo. try to set everything up without having the turbo and use it like that. would that be any easier? I am thinking about having to find a new wiring harness, change the crank wheel, etc...

Xenocide · Post by **Xenocide** » May 12, 2010 9:36 PM

What's messed up with megasquirt? I've been there, especially after the mysterious blue spark and accompanying smoke came out of it due to an open cover and a loose ground wire. MANY hours of troubleshooting later, it works. If megasquirt is what's hanging you up there are GREAT forums for it, and if you really get stumped, you can always email DIYautotune. They REALLY helped me.

Sorry to tear you in another direction, it just seems like a nice project, and I'd hate to see megasquirt be the downfall of an otherwise promising build.

George · Post by **George** » May 12, 2010 10:09 PM

If you were closer, I'd say buy me beer and leave it with me for a few weeks and I'd figure it out for you.

What exactly is wrong? Hardware, software, wiring...

alijonny · Post by **alijonny** » May 12, 2010 11:51 PM

tuning.

last time I played with the car, it would run good, then run rough, get really hot on the hot side, buck, surge, etc. like I said, I have no time for it. I wish I did so I could at least make the car drivable. If I could give it to someone to tune, I would have done that but there seems to be no one that knows what megasquirt even is. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places. I know I started with the wrong (too new) MS to begin with and that is what has been making problems IMO. It has been like jumping thru hoops no one has jumped thru. I really appreciate the help I have gotten on this site, but I know there is difficulty when it comes to trying to explain problems I am having without someone who has "been there" in person to see for themselves. If anyone has suggestions, It would be greatly appreciated. I have been to the MS forums but get overwhelmed for some reason when I start reading and get turned off. I knew megasquirt was DIY, but I don't know what I was thinking when I thought I could get the tuning sorted by myself in a few hours. Others on this site have done it, but for some reason my mental ability is not even close to theirs when it comes to tuning. ufff.

BadM535i · Post by **BadM535i** » May 13, 2010 1:41 AM

Just get the W.A.R. chip and call it a day.

Scottinva · Post by **Scottinva** » May 13, 2010 2:27 AM

Don't giveup now if your this far.....

alijonny · Post by **alijonny** » May 13, 2010 10:38 AM

easier said than done. If I keep at this I need someone to help me. No, I need someone to show me how it's done. I just don't have the time to learn this like I thought I would.

justin517 · Post by **justin517** » May 13, 2010 11:14 AM

this may sound kind of backwards, and it is but maybe sell the MS and get an FMU and run lowish boost with the stock or a bit higher boost with a TCD timing chip?

some people take more kindly to the screwdriver approach rather than the keystroke approach, I know I do... I'll be trying out ostrich and tunerpro though...

I assume you have an M30B34 and would have a 059 ECU if it were still in place?

FirstFives Dictator · Post by **FirstFives Dictator** » May 13, 2010 11:17 AM

Shameless plug, but I do offer ala carte support for systems I didn't build.
You've got my contact info if you need to go that route.

justin517 · Post by **justin517** » May 13, 2010 11:55 AM

FirstFives Dictator wrote:Shameless plug, but I do offer ala carte support for systems I didn't build.
You've got my contact info if you need to go that route.

sorta a thread-jack... I'm sure you're a busy guy, I sent you an email I think tuesday through your website form... I'll PM you here though...

alijonny · Post by **alijonny** » May 13, 2010 12:38 PM

FirstFives Dictator wrote:Shameless plug, but I do offer ala carte support for systems I didn't build.
You've got my contact info if you need to go that route.

explain a little more detailed if you will. How invasive would this get (time and $$ also)

alijonny · Post by **alijonny** » May 13, 2010 12:48 PM

justin517 wrote:this may sound kind of backwards, and it is but maybe sell the MS and get an FMU and run lowish boost with the stock or a bit higher boost with a TCD timing chip?

some people take more kindly to the screwdriver approach rather than the keystroke approach, I know I do... I'll be trying out ostrich and tunerpro though...

I assume you have an M30B34 and would have a 059 ECU if it were still in place?

problem is, I am so far with what I have right now. It is a m30b34 but with a b35 crank wheel and ckp sensor, 6 pin tps, gutted the OE computer and trashed it for the box to install the glens garage idle board, flipped the TB, installed bigger injectors, routed the intercooler piping behind the euro bumper, moved the coolant tank, relocated the battery, etc.. I have come so far, but feel that I have gotten nowhere.

every time I change something with MS, nothing seems to happen and its frustrating. I know I shouldn't be changing things and that's why I have given up. I write down what I change and revert back to those things when I see no changes, i can't keep wasting my time.

Post by **Nebraska_e28** » May 13, 2010 1:00 PM

alijonny wrote:easier said than done. If I keep at this I need someone to help me. No, I need someone to show me how it's done. I just don't have the time to learn this like I thought I would.

I'm building a MS for my turbo right now. I'm more of a novice that yourself, but perhaps when I'm done I can talk grsmonkey into making a trip & we can team up to give you a hand? (if you can wait that long)

FirstFives Dictator · Post by **FirstFives Dictator** » May 13, 2010 1:19 PM

alijonny wrote:
FirstFives Dictator wrote:Shameless plug, but I do offer ala carte support for systems I didn't build.
You've got my contact info if you need to go that route.
explain a little more detailed if you will. How invasive would this get (time and $$ also)

Invasive? hope not.

Probably 200-300 to get you running and more importantly, understanding your system.

You know the saying:

Build a man a fire, he's warm for one night.
Light a man on fire, he's warm for the rest of his life.

ecartoys · Post by **ecartoys** » May 13, 2010 1:52 PM

alijonny wrote:tuning.
last time I played with the car, it would run good, then run rough, get really hot on the hot side, buck, surge, etc.

Just curious, are you tuning with a wideband O2 controller? It is not mentioned in your post of your system.

I am a newbie to MS but no stranger to electronics. For a system to run good on one day and then runs badly another means the issue is not necessary software/tuning. I MS'd 2 cars so far and they both tune easily and smoothly with wideband O2 controller. All the issues I have had are hardware related (loose wire, reverse polarity and etc). All the tunes stay the way it were programmed.

I use a much simpler system with Microsquirt and only briefly touched the full size system that you are using. But if you are able to revert back to your factory system or have another car to drive I can take a look at your MS box for you.

Also if you can please post detail pics of how the MS components(IAT, VR sensor wiring and TPS wiring) are set up on your car. Also logging is a must - log at least one good day that you can use to compare with the bad day.

cvillebimmer · Post by **cvillebimmer** » May 13, 2010 2:06 PM

I'd say let Peter take a crack at it first before you throw in the towel. If that doesn't work, I'll swap you my piggy back stuff so you can run it with Motronic.

Then I'll take your MS stuff to Peter to run in my car.

FirstFives Dictator · Post by **FirstFives Dictator** » May 13, 2010 2:24 PM

cvillebimmer wrote:I'd say let Peter take a crack at it first before you throw in the towel. If that doesn't work, I'll swap you my piggy back stuff so you can run it with Motronic.

Then I'll take your MS stuff to Peter to run in my car.

Bill in MN · Post by **Bill in MN** » May 13, 2010 2:43 PM

There are 2 majic words to say that will render your MS functioninal.

Peter Florence.

cvillebimmer · Post by **cvillebimmer** » May 13, 2010 3:10 PM

Peter, my car will find you soon!

turbodan · Post by **turbodan** » May 13, 2010 3:28 PM

This is why its best to start out simple. The turbo parts aren't hard to bolt on, and the plumbing is simple fabrication. You can run a low boost beginner system with nothing more than an RRFPR. One step at a time. Standalone in itself is a big deal, and I certainly wouldn't want to do a turbo build and MS at the same time. That could easily go FUBAR.

If I were you I'd source what you need to run Motronic just to get it running. Work on the MS in your spare time and really get it worked out before you try to install it on the car.

alijonny · Post by **alijonny** » May 13, 2010 3:45 PM

turbodan wrote:This is why its best to start out simple. The turbo parts aren't hard to bolt on, and the plumbing is simple fabrication. You can run a low boost beginner system with nothing more than an RRFPR. One step at a time. Standalone in itself is a big deal, and I certainly wouldn't want to do a turbo build and MS at the same time. That could easily go FUBAR.

yup, you said it. FUBAR is right. I had a good feeling this was going to happen, but not in the time span it has gotten to. I figured I would have this worked out within months and be AT LEAST on the road with the car in a reliable drivable way. NOPE. I had an old man tell me once that being a mechanic and trying to work on your own cars is never going to happen. you get so burnt on other people's junk that you never want to touch your stuff. Well, let me tell you. Being the boss is even worse, being the go-to guy is even worse. Sh*t! this is another part of the reason I am going back to school. I love working on cars and having my own business, but I need a plan A so I don't go nuts. Plan B is what I am doing now.

turbodan wrote:If I were you I'd source what you need to run Motronic just to get it running. Work on the MS in your spare time and really get it worked out before you try to install it on the car.

If i get rid of MS, I am getting rid of it and planning to never go back to it. It would be nice to work it out for now, but I honestly can't get it done by myself. no way no how with everything else i have going on. If the world completely stopped, yeah, I could probably get it figured out. But this is not happening any time soon.

alijonny · Post by **alijonny** » May 13, 2010 3:47 PM

Oh and I am using an innovate LC-1 I believe. It is the summit racing brand but it is all innovate. I have it wired in to the MS. All settings are for WB usage, I have gotten that far.

turbodan · Post by **turbodan** » May 13, 2010 4:02 PM

The wideband isn't essential, and its not even useful until you have the car running.

This is why I bought my MS complete and configured for the stock single coil and VR sensor. Thats all you need. Get some code loaded, get it communicating with a laptop, then go from there. I wouldn't abandon MS, just take a fresh approach. One thing at a time.

alijonny · Post by **alijonny** » May 13, 2010 4:33 PM

turbodan wrote:The wideband isn't essential, and its not even useful until you have the car running.

This is why I bought my MS complete and configured for the stock single coil and VR sensor. Thats all you need. Get some code loaded, get it communicating with a laptop, then go from there. I wouldn't abandon MS, just take a fresh approach. One thing at a time.

Well, the car runs and "drives". just not well. it seems to have improved since I started with it, but is absolutely not where it should be.

I am running the stock single coil and a b35 VR sensor with 60-2 wheel.
AFAIK there is a problem in something I am entering into the computer from the beginning.
dwell? base timing etc, cold start enrichment, cold settings, etc. something is not right. fuel and timing maps might be fine, I am going off of someones numbers for that.

Ideally, for now, I want the car to run like it did before I tore into it. I want the boost to be low like 5lbs.
I'm pretty sure I can take the turbo off and have the same exact issues I'm having right now.

cvillebimmer · Post by **cvillebimmer** » May 13, 2010 4:35 PM

I have everything you need to do that

turbodan · Post by **turbodan** » May 13, 2010 5:46 PM

alijonny wrote:Well, the car runs and "drives". just not well. it seems to have improved since I started with it, but is absolutely not where it should be.

Well shit. It doesn't sound so bad to me. Theres not much to dialing it in once you've got everything working. If its a mistaken setting we should be able to identify it with a datalog. If its a fueling issue, it will be evident in the pulsewidth plot and AFR. If its a timing issue, it'll either manifest itself in a misfire or a driveability issue.

What kinds of problems are you having?

M. Holtmeier · Post by **M. Holtmeier** » May 13, 2010 5:52 PM

I have a free flight voucher form Delta I need to use up before July.

alijonny · Post by **alijonny** » May 13, 2010 8:46 PM

turbodan wrote:
alijonny wrote:Well, the car runs and "drives". just not well. it seems to have improved since I started with it, but is absolutely not where it should be.
Well shit. It doesn't sound so bad to me. Theres not much to dialing it in once you've got everything working. If its a mistaken setting we should be able to identify it with a datalog. If its a fueling issue, it will be evident in the pulsewidth plot and AFR. If its a timing issue, it'll either manifest itself in a misfire or a driveability issue.

What kinds of problems are you having?

I had videos of what it was doing, but that might not help much. heres a quick idea:
-turn the key, cranks no start.
-turn the key, cranks sputter
-turn the key, cranks, starts but wont stay running
-keep foot on gas lightly for about 2-3 minutes
-car idles. sounds pretty good at this point.
-easily revs up, no hesitation (under no load)
-let idle for about 5 more minutes
-car develops a misfire on cylinder 1 revving the engine -makes misfire go away. (checked everything mechanical, no -problems. substituted known good cap/rotor/wires/spark plug, no difference)
-starts to surge up and down up to 2500rpm, sometimes It dies. it will start right back up
-sometimes it will stay at a high idle for about 5 seconds. why? I don't have a clue.
-keep running, hot side of turbo reaches red hot status (above 800*F
-I freak out and shut it down

The last time I drove the car, i made it down a street (about 1/4 mile) with no problems. When I got to the stop sign it went to idle. I turned right and started accelerating. acceleration seems smooth, I didn't get deep into it. I have a very light spring in the wastegate (it opens at like 3psi). after 1/16 of a mile or so, the car jerked once or twice but cleaned up. again i made a right and stopped at a stop light. The car started acting up out of nowhere. I would try to give it gas, but it wouldn't respond at all. It seemed like it was starving for fuel. I panicked and thought the car was going to die. well, it didn't and with some coaxing I was able to putt putt back to the shop. lo and behold as soon as I pulled into the shop, it started running decent again. After letting it idle for a couple minutes, I checked the temps off the exhaust manifolds and they were above 800*F. even at the compressor housing. I have no cat on the car right now or anything that would restrict the exhaust.

Xenocide · Post by **Xenocide** » May 13, 2010 9:05 PM

Do you have a datalog of that trip? Have you checked the timing with a timing light?

MyE28.com

MyE28.com

thinking about and possibly decided to unturbo.

thinking about and possibly decided to unturbo.