How to check m21 injection timing..... DIY

[sritmase30]

My m21b24 D for 100km/10l avarage. ( fuel rate to big, i think normal is 6-8 l/100km )
It work good , so i dont no, what of kind problem is.Some of problems i can check by my self - fuel srew, air filter and other..
I think one of problem can be a injection timing, so i want to know how to check it?
maybe some one can do "works list"?

[Frybrid 524td]

I second that. Would any of you gurus be willing to write up a detailed how-to for changing the timing belt and checking the timing? Photos would be great too. Thank you!

[DieselBoost]

you need special tool for it,

http://www.emiata.com/images/VWDialGauge.jpg

but you need for tool for bmw ve6 pump.

you cant check timing without this.

other causes for that problem can be

too low compression
poor condition of injectors
leaking valves

and one big thing what many doesnt know is valve opening
if there is too much valve clearance valve opening is too small
those m21 lifters are very vulnerable to slip from adjustment.

i recommend to check this first.

[sritmase30]

DieselBoost:
I will do ass you sad, thanks
Valve clearance, ......mm?

[Traveler]

I have done a couple of them now without any special tools except a timing light adapter made by ferret industires.

I should have a write up done with pics here pretty soon.

If you are doing just a timing belt that is an easy swap, injection timing is a little more complicated.

Valve lash is .3mm intake and exhaust, cold.

[DieselBoost]

it can be hard to set valve clearance if cam and lifters are worn which is typical in m21

we use 0.25mm clearance in our engines.
normal is that 0.30mm

[Traveler]

we use 0.25mm clearance in our engines.
normal is that 0.30mm

I just did this and wanted to comment.

I went through and set them all at .25mm. After which I put a degree wheel on the crank and a dial indicator on the valve to verify my cam timing since I don't have the special tool.

I found that with my valve lash set at .25mm it was opening 30 degrees too early and closing 50 degrees too late.

I reset my valve lash to .3MM and it was spot on.

So I just assumed .25 mm was okay and that would have been bad. Don't follow in my foot steps, take the time to check the cam with a micrometer or use a degree wheel to verify your valve timing.

[altus22]

I would suggest getting your hands on a cam lock tool also. You should use this when changing the timing belt instead of marking the sprockets or using Vise-Grips.