do I have to remove subframe to replace steering gearbox?

[Mashford]

My subframe bracket is broken off and steering gear box is leaking fluid... this all seems to be the source of the "clunks" I've been having turning the wheels at parking speed. So, I am looking at putting in Mwrench fix to cover the broken bracket and installing new gearbox. Bentley's says I need to drop down the subframe to replace the gearbox. After putting in new struts and arms all around down in front a few years ago, I am hoping I don't need to pull a lot out again to replace the gearbox. Is dropping the subframe a big job? Do I need to do it to replace the gearbox? Thanks.

[wkohler]

I didn't drop the subframe. I pulled the box and the tie rods/center link/idler arm as one piece. Then replaced it all. Took 45 minutes using a lift. Couldn't believe I didn't do it sooner. I didn't do the Mwrench fix yet. My bracket isn't broken.

[Mashford]

did you need a special puller to free pitman (idler) arm? And did you free that from the gear box and keep it, or from the tie rod and replace... sounds like the latter. Thank you!

[Mike W.]

I've done 2 on mine, and the arm goes with with the box. You do need some sort of puller to break the tapered joint, I like a press type so I don't trash other parts with a pickle fork. It's not a complex job, just a PITA working overhead on this 40 pound lump with crap falling in your eyes. Do yourself a favor and pressure wash/degrease the area a day or three beforehand, you'll still get dirty, but it won't be nearly as bad.

[tsmall07]

Post pictures of where yours broke. I'd like to do a little proactive reinforcement.

[wkohler]

The Mwrench kit is the ideal reinforcement - your bracket doesn't have to be busted to do it. Most just lift off the subframe - at the welds. I've seen some break in the corners.

The only reason I didn't do it at the time was that needed to replace the tie-rods, idler arm and center link and the box was an afterthought since I thought it was going to be a HUGE job by itself.

[tsmall07]

The Mwrench kit is the ideal reinforcement - your bracket doesn't have to be busted to do it. Most just lift off the subframe - at the welds. I've seen some break in the corners.

Hadn't heard of that before. Am I supposed to buy the "Machined Dowel" from him or are there specs available for me to have my own machined?

[Soco]

I didn't drop the subframe. I pulled the box and the tie rods/center link/idler arm as one piece. Then replaced it all. Took 45 minutes using a lift. Couldn't believe I didn't do it sooner. I didn't do the Mwrench fix yet. My bracket isn't broken.

I removed mine without taking the subframe off. However, it was a bitch, and i had to suspend the 50 pound box above my head for a while fiddling with bolts. I forget, I just remember hating that job. Totally doable tho, just get a 6 pack and stare at it for a while. try to con a friend into helping out too...

[stuartinmn]

How bad is the leak? Is it just a drip, or a torrent? I'd think about just replacing the leaky seal instead of going through all the trouble of replacing the whole thing.

Years ago I had a seal fail on a steering box (not a BMW, but the same problem.) I took it to a shop and had them replace the seal, and it was surprisingly affordable - they had a hoist and the proper tools, so they were able to make the repair quickly. Sometimes it's worth paying a professional to do what would be a nasty job at home.

[Mashford]

How bad is the leak? Is it just a drip, or a torrent? I'd think about just replacing the leaky seal instead of going through all the trouble of replacing the whole thing.

It's just a drip, but the bracket is also broken. I will see if I can find someone to fix just the seal, and perhaps also install (and weld) the MWrench specialty part to make up for broken bracket. There is a specialty BMW shop here in Boulder, CO. I don't have final price on the gearbox, but I imagine it's pretty expensive, so I hope this might save me money, too. Thanks for the suggestion.

[stuartinmn]

The Mwrench repair is a snap, so no worries there. It took only about 20 minutes to install and that included the time spent jacking the car up and putting it on stands. The instructions call for it to be welded in place after it's installed, but to be honest I've been driving around all summer with mine just bolted in. It fits into the subframe REALLY nice, so there's no play at all.

As far as the leak, if it's just a drip I'd probably let it go for now...if nothing else it helps keep the bottom of the car from rusting, and a piece of cardboard on the garage floor will soak up any excess.

[Mashford]

As far as the leak, if it's just a drip I'd probably let it go for now...if nothing else it helps keep the bottom of the car from rusting, and a piece of cardboard on the garage floor will soak up any excess.

Good advice. I'll put in the MWrench, clean everything up while I am down there, then monitor it with a clean baseline, and see where it goes (including the cardboard)... 30-60 minutes work, $55 and a plan of action. Thank you!

[tschultz]

Any further thoughts on difficulty or how much of a big PITA it is to replace this in the car?

I have the Brake booster and bomb already out for access.... it just looks messy and annoying, however.

[Ju@n]

Any further thoughts on difficulty or how much of a big PITA it is to replace this in the car?

I have the Brake booster and bomb already out for access.... it just looks messy and annoying, however.

I've just done this, you can remove the steering box without removing the subframe, though it's a tight fit.

[tschultz]

Thanks Juan.. Not looking forward to it, but ought to get after it while I have the access.