BEFORE:
AFTER:
<---- This was TOO much tuckage for me. I adjusted it later.
And... after Mtech spoiler install: (rear bumper has also been adjusted to match the front. A much better look than all the way in as pictured above)
Tucking the front.
On several cars, this procedure can be done without removing many parts and on my e28, I only had to remove the foglights. The actual procedure involves drilling holes into the actual shock to release the pressurized fluid that keeps the shock extended.
You will need:
- Power Drill
Large drill bit (1/4" or larger)
large peice of cardboard or a few paper plates
Eye protection
Old clothes
Rags
Drip cloth of some sort
Ramps (optional)
Jackstands (optional)
Floor Jack. (optional)
It may also be helpful to get your front end up in the air a bit.
Lay out a drop cloth. Once the shock is punctured, it will spray everywhere.
Once you locate the shocks, get your drill ready.
Insert desired bit into the drill
Poke the bit thru the center of your paper plate / cardboard.
Apply eye protection and start drilling. Be prepared for that pressurized fluid to spew out. Hold the paper/plate "shield" as close as possible to the shock. (this also helps keep the metal shavings off of your hands)
It may be necessary to drill a second hole to get the shock to fully compress. (If you did this with the shock REMOVED, drain out the fluid, but leave it extended until AFTER you reassemble the bumper, THEN push it in. If you don't, you may have a tough time getting everything back together again.)
Reassemble, push the bumper in to the desired amount of "tuck". This may take some force. I was able to "kick" it in with my foot. Others used a block of wood and a Big F*n Hammer (BFH) ...OR... in some cases, have actually bumped the car into a solid object such as a tree or a wall. If you find that the body of the car is at ALL rusty where the shocks mount, I would NOT do this. Also, the bumpers are made of aluminum and can crack easily, especially if there has been ANY prior "contact with objects"
Tucking the rear.
This is a bit harder because of the substance that is used in the shock itself. The "stuff" is a liquid, but when it is exposed to oxygen, it turns into a gel like substance that is not as easy to "squeeze" out of the shock. This will require a bit more work and something to provide steady pressure.
The prep is the same, but these shocks are usually easier to access.
Notice that the MORE holes that you make for the goo to escape, the easier it will be to get the job done.
When I did this, I removed the shocks and compressed them by using a floor jack, a 2x6 and my neighbors Trailblazer. I simply placed the block of 2x6 on the jack pad, stood the shock upright on the block, found a nice "notch" in the rear frame of the truck and used the jack to compress the shock. The goo slowly oozed out.
Reassemble.
So... to each, his own.
Looks great, especially the shadowed aluminum. 
here but I've got a 3 day weekend, and nothing to do and really not fond of the picnic bench look.
It took me two-and-a-half hours to remove the bumper - with no airdam, etc. I tried a couple of other methods like removing the set screw he installed, etc and pulling, but that didn't go well. I didn't have ratcheting wrenches in college, so I sat there using a combination box-end/open-end 10mm wrench undoing those top bolts. I spent about 15 minutes on each with about 5° or less of movement each time. I had to remove the headlamps and everything.