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Door lock heating
Door lock heating
Any insight on this? Looks like it might have been an option, found parts through BMW Mobile Tradition. Could really get into this in NH.
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- Posts: 10390
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: SE PA
a mentioned one failure mode, continuous on. This is obvious if the key area of the door is hot.
Another failure mode is the switch. The switch is a block mounted so that a leaf of metal will be contacted when the door handle is raised. This leaf corrodes and falls off. Without it there is no ground closure in the circuit to make the timer work.
Another failure mode is the switch. The switch is a block mounted so that a leaf of metal will be contacted when the door handle is raised. This leaf corrodes and falls off. Without it there is no ground closure in the circuit to make the timer work.
And why would they? The rear doors don't even have locks. And climbing over the center console, especially when dressed for temps. that necessitate lock heaters, makes no sense.Shawn D. wrote:Note that "the" door lock in question is the driver's door lock -- none of the other locks have a heater.
To the OP, it sounds like your door heater is like 90% of them, inoperable for one of the two reasons previously listed.
Forgive me if this is obvious
Hi.
I'm not sure if this was obvious or not. Apologies if it is redundant. In my opinion, the best way to determine whether the door lock heater is working is quite simple:
1. Do this at night or where it is relatively dark.
2. Turn on the interior light to always on.
3. Close the driver's door and lock the car, either single or dead-bolt. Doesn't matter.
4. TEST: Pull up the driver's handle and hold it up. If you see the interior lights dim a bit, it's working just fine. Try it a few times to see where the handle is when the switch is activated/deactivated.
If you don't see the lights dim, then either it's always on (bad) or always off (who cares, really?)
5. Put the interior light setting back where it was.
Hope this helps,
.steve.
NY Chapter, BMW CCA
Editor, Die Zugspitze
2001 525i, 5-spd, 96K
1987 528e, 5-spd, 259K
1983 528e, 5-spd, 317K
I'm not sure if this was obvious or not. Apologies if it is redundant. In my opinion, the best way to determine whether the door lock heater is working is quite simple:
1. Do this at night or where it is relatively dark.
2. Turn on the interior light to always on.
3. Close the driver's door and lock the car, either single or dead-bolt. Doesn't matter.
4. TEST: Pull up the driver's handle and hold it up. If you see the interior lights dim a bit, it's working just fine. Try it a few times to see where the handle is when the switch is activated/deactivated.
If you don't see the lights dim, then either it's always on (bad) or always off (who cares, really?)
5. Put the interior light setting back where it was.

Hope this helps,
.steve.
NY Chapter, BMW CCA
Editor, Die Zugspitze
2001 525i, 5-spd, 96K
1987 528e, 5-spd, 259K
1983 528e, 5-spd, 317K
If you had been asked "which lock" after answering lock heater queries, as I have, you'd make the distinction too.Son of a wrote:And why would they? The rear doors don't even have locks. And climbing over the center console, especially when dressed for temps. that necessitate lock heaters, makes no sense.Shawn D. wrote:Note that "the" door lock in question is the driver's door lock -- none of the other locks have a heater.

Point taken. Perhaps there are no stupid questions, just stupid people asking them. Though thankfully that's not the case here. But just the smallest application of logic makes it obvious which one lock it could only be.Shawn D. wrote:If you had been asked "which lock" after answering lock heater queries, as I have, you'd make the distinction too.Son of a wrote:And why would they? The rear doors don't even have locks. And climbing over the center console, especially when dressed for temps. that necessitate lock heaters, makes no sense.Shawn D. wrote:Note that "the" door lock in question is the driver's door lock -- none of the other locks have a heater.
Door lock overheated and fell out
Hi,
My driver side door lock overheated last night I noticed when I smelled something burning. Didn't even know it had a heater on it when I put key in it burned my finger and cylinder fell off> can someone tell me how to fix??
Thanks,
My driver side door lock overheated last night I noticed when I smelled something burning. Didn't even know it had a heater on it when I put key in it burned my finger and cylinder fell off> can someone tell me how to fix??
Thanks,
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- Location: Long Island NY
Re: Door lock overheated and fell out
Yes. You will need to pull the door panel to see which parts failed, but I suspect the component that contains the heater, which is a U-shaped clip that also holds the cylinder in place (see part #19 here).MarkJVC wrote:Can someone tell me how to fix??
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- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: SE PA
Re: Door lock overheated and fell out
I'm confused and need a clarification. Isn't the actual heater here, #2, and not #19 in the diagram shown in your link? It's been a while since I did this, but the car with the lock heater should use the above part, listed as "heater ring left", and not the one listed as "clamp". The part numbers are different, as well. Or am I wrong and need to be corrected?Shawn D. wrote:You will need to pull the door panel to see which parts failed, but I suspect the component that contains the heater, which is a U-shaped clip that also holds the cylinder in place (see part #19 here).
No, you're not confused -- you are correct. I simply went to the door diagram and found the equivalent part to show what it looks like.BRRV wrote:I'm confused and need a clarification. Isn't the actual heater here, #2, and not #19 in the diagram shown in your link?Shawn D. wrote:You will need to pull the door panel to see which parts failed, but I suspect the component that contains the heater, which is a U-shaped clip that also holds the cylinder in place (see part #19 here).