m5 front cover removal...

Specific conversations and info for the BMW E28 M5 and M535i.
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joe in nashvegas
Posts: 65
Joined: Feb 12, 2006

m5 front cover removal...

Post by joe in nashvegas »

Hi folks,
I've got my crank hub off and having some trouble getting the woodruff key removed.

Thought I would remove the front cover to get better access and inspect condition of chain rails.

Do I need to remove water pump, p/s, a/c brackets ?

What's the best way to free it loose ?
I spy a tab on the lower left that looks useful...

Thanks,
Joe in nashville
Philo
Posts: 2279
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Long Beach, CA

Post by Philo »

The accessories do not have to come off.., but while you're in there consider doing the water pump and thermostat and all belts. Have the accessories out would make it easier to work though.

Question.., is the head off ?? if not it's a bitch to get the front cover off, and you'll probably screw up the head gasket in the process. If you are changing to hub only I wouldn't go and remove the front cover. If the head is off and you have all the front bolts out of the cover and still wont come of.., make sure the two lower bolts are removed.., these are the ones that bolt through the oil pan into the front cover.

Regarding the woodruff key.., hit it with some PB blaster, let it sit over night, then come back and try using a drift punch (flat tip) and tap the front tip of the key downward and with a slight aft angle. The bottom of the key and keyway have a curved shape so the key will rock up, then you can pull it out with your fingers. If it doesn't budge you need to wait for for the Blaster to work its way in to loosen things up.

Good luck.. let me know if the head is off. I did mine two years ago.., can send you some pics if you like.
Steve Haygood
Posts: 1943
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Thomaston Ga
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Post by Steve Haygood »

if you are not removing the head (and don't want to) remove the oil pan. Otherwise as Philo said, you will tear the had gasket. PB blaster won't help much on the woodruff key IMO, it's not corrosion that has it stuck( as it rides in an continual oil bath), but just a press fit.

Now the bad news, to remove the oil pan , you will have to remove the accessories
RonG
Posts: 4
Joined: Oct 04, 2007
Location: Knoxville

Post by RonG »

I'm in the reassembly stage of my timing component project (with the head still on) and remember spending way too much time on the woodruff keys. I used short screwdriver and small hammer from the front with a Vise-Grip on top and eventually "rocked" it out. As Steve said, they're a press fit, so you might need to file the sides some on the new ones in order to get them started in the keyways.
joe in nashvegas
Posts: 65
Joined: Feb 12, 2006

Post by joe in nashvegas »

:banana: Got the key out with Philo's drift suggestion. My trouble light bulb blew out after 3 minutes, so I didn't get to try RonG's suggestion for inserting the new key.

joe
Steve Haygood
Posts: 1943
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Thomaston Ga
Contact:

Post by Steve Haygood »

DO NOT file the sides of the key, you might camfer(sp) it just a bit to get it started, but if you file it too much, you run the risk of leaving a loose fit and spinning the gear on the crank and causing much $$$ damage
RonG
Posts: 4
Joined: Oct 04, 2007
Location: Knoxville

Post by RonG »

Right Steve, I should have said "to chamfer the edge". Still had to "tap" the new keys in with a small hammer. A tight fit is necessary.
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