E28_M30B28 euro Turbo - (old title Stinger 4 on my car)

[babisbabou]

I am thinking about using an EMS on my car.
Will it fit? What version of the motronic is my car, motronic 1.0 ?
Future project is to fit my T3084 to my car...
But for the moment i am thinking about this : use an EMS on my car.

Will it fit? Yes or No, anyone has done it?

Any thoughts will be welcomed

[Shawn D.]

You're going to have to explain better. What's an EMS? Engine Management System?

[babisbabou]

You're going to have to explain better. What's an EMS? Engine Management System?

http://www.emsnorthamerica.com/stinger_econo.htm

This one m8.

[Shawn D.]

OK, now that you've explained more...

Will it fit? Yes or No, anyone has done it?

It's not a simple "yes" or "no" question. The answer is that it will fit just the same as any other aftermarket ECU, like MegaSquirt, MoTec, or Electromotive, etc. That means that it is not a direct plug-and-play situation. Unless you can find anyone who has used this particular item on an E28 (nobody here has), you will be on your own to figure out how to fabricate the wiring harness and set up the sensors and programming.

You'd be better off installing a MegaSquirt, as many folks have done this and have some baseline programming figured out.

Why do you want to do this?

[babisbabou]

Why do you want to do this?

Future project is to fit my T3084 to my car...

This is a Garret T3 from a sierra cossie 4x4 and future project is to install it to my car.
Use a DIY turbo mainfold and install IC and all the other things, but the missing part is the Air/Fuel, that can not be supported by the stock ECU, can it? 0,4-0,6 bar will be MAX boost for starters.

I have seen that many folks have used megasquirt, but EMS stinger was also a thought, i have downloaded and studied both of these ECU's software and i am the one that will "program" my new ECU, or at least try

[Shawn D.]

Yes, the stock ECU can be used -- many folks here have done so with their turbo conversions. I'm going to move this thread to the Forced Induction, as it'll be more relevant there.

[babisbabou]

I'm going to move this thread to the Forced Induction, as it'll be more relevant there.

I also changed the title a bit

Yes, the stock ECU can be used -- many folks here have done so with their turbo conversions.

They used the AFM?
Cool! that saves a lot of expensive!
Only bigger injectors?
I have seen megasquirt related topics but not just the stock ECU, some links, advices will be appreciated!

[Shawn D.]

The used the AFM?

Yes. In fact, the TCD kits retain it and the stock ECU

I have seen megasquirt related topics but not just the stock ECU, some links, advices will be appreciated!

Come on, man! All of that info is right here in this section!

[babisbabou]

The used the AFM?

Yes. In fact, the TCD kits retain it and the stock ECU

I have seen megasquirt related topics but not just the stock ECU, some links, advices will be appreciated!

Come on, man! All of that info is right here in this section!

I will continue my search

[babisbabou]

Hello everybody,
I am back again and my turbo project has moved on a bit.
So far :

1.turbo manifold done, inspired by mye28.com and especially this : http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=38716
2. Turbine oil feed done, just like the topic above, (drilled oil filter housing)
3.Turbine water feed done/water return done (at the water pot???)
4.inter cooler installed + pipes from the inter cooler to the throttle body+blow of valve

some pictures over here




(click te link above to see the full slide show)

[babisbabou]

Good day to us all !
Today i finished all the assembly so that i can hear it roar
It started and worked so that i can check the water+oil lines are feeding so :

oil to the turbo is ok
water to the turbo well, there was minimum flow, is it normal?
I ran the engine only for 2minutes (the temperature meter did not have the chance to move)

Has anyone seen my pictures so that he can help me with the water feed/return?

Missing things :

bar-meter
down-pipe

Jobs to be done :

fit the K/N cone air filter
fit the pipe for the idle speed adjustment



any tips/advices/opinions will always be welcomed.
News on the way

[turbodan]

Where did you connect the water lines to?

Just like anything liquid, there has to be a pressure differential to make things actually flow.

On my old GT2560 and 2871 I ran the water feed from the back of the engine block and plumbed the return from the turbo back to the thermostat housing. The whole system runs under pressure, but the block is under additional pressure because the waterpump is pushing coolant in at the front. The block is under higher pressure than the rest of th system, so if you were to run the feed from the block and the return to the reservoir or pretty much anywhere else, you should have good cooling flow.

[Brad D.]

It's looking like your project is moving along nicely. It's exciting when stuff starts to come together. I would bet that Dan is on the right track about your coolant flow issue. There probably isn't enough delta P to actually flow much coolant the way it is plumbed.

[babisbabou]

Thank you guys for the tips i will work on that cause at the curent state there is minimum flow of the water!

Dan do you have any picture on where you got the water feed on the block, just to see where should i search at, there is a screw on the engine block on the exhaust side of the engine, is this the feed that you mean?
(i have connected them to the thermostat and the water pot, the one used to fill up the water level)

Rim thanks mate it really is great doing something all alone and especially when it works good

thank you mate's for the replies and the tips,i really appreciate it i will be waiting for a picture on where to search for the water feed

progress on the way!

[turbodan]

The plug on the exhaust side is the block drain, but that will work just fine for a feed line. I dont know if the M30 has a throttle body heater like the M20, which is what ended up cooling my turbo.

[babisbabou]

The plug on the exhaust side is the block drain, but that will work just fine for a feed line. I dont know if the M30 has a throttle body heater like the M20, which is what ended up cooling my turbo.

well the M30 does not have a throttle body heater like the M20 but it seems like that my set up worked today as soon as i got the air out of the water cooling system.

updates on the way

[babisbabou]

Hello to all, May has come good summer to us all!

Water feed for the turbo was from the radiator hose which connects with the water pot, and return to the water pot.


I have a question about the turbo :

At the moment i do not want to use a boost controller so i used this assembly : http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e43/b ... gram_3.gif

so that the boost is set to the minimum level, is this assembly of mine correct?

[Brad D.]

Yes, connecting your wastegate to your compressor like that will allow the boost pressure to be whatever your wastegate is set to, which will be the lowest boost your car will achieve.

[babisbabou]

Yes, connecting your wastegate to your compressor like that will allow the boost pressure to be whatever your wastegate is set to, which will be the lowest boost your car will achieve.

thank you mate!



now some pics :


first the water feed-return (orange is the return line):



oil return on turbo :



oil return at oil pan:









about the previous oil return at my slide so above, it just did not fit for the job.

progress on the way, hope god helps me finish soon enough.

[russc]

While that oil return can work, its a very bad design. You want the oil return farther up the pan as far as it can go. You want the oil to flow out above the oil level in the pan.

The reason is that the oil will pool in the return line to the height of the oil level. During cornering, the oil will be forced up the line into the turbo(potentially) and restrict the oil flow through the turbo(bad). Ive not seen a oil return that low in the pan before.

RussC

[babisbabou]

Good morning(at Greece) guys,
Russc you are right about what you told me so i guess i have to drill a new hole higher and tap this one?

BTW to check this that you told i have to check the oil at the return line of the turbo?

UPDATE :

http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e43/b ... kastra.flv

[babisbabou]

Good morning to all of you guys, some pictures of my down pipe started yesterday :











a used an galvanized iron tube of 70mm diameter (i think it is 70mm=3 inches) this will go all the way to the middle and will be assembled with my other 2 silencers, photos coming soon.

[Jeremy]

70mm = 2.75 inches

If you want 3 inch you'd need 76.2mm tubing.

[bimmerboy]

A small t3 will be fine with a 2.75" exhaust

[babisbabou]

Thank you for the info guys,i appreciate it!
My turbo is an T0384(from a sierra4x4), dunno if it is called "small" or "big" T3, i thought it was just a T3.

My hp target is 252hp(aka 745i turbo's hp) hopefully i hope i can achieve that with 0,4bar(5,9psi). From as far as i know the L-Jetronic(also called Motronic 1.0 right?) can handle boost up to 1 bar(15psi), but i am not sure if my fuel injectors(192cc) can handle the extra power(185->252).

My car does not have an "λ"(lamda) sensor so any ideas on how to check the air fuel ratio? Can i just attach a lamda sensor on my car and use it alone with an halmeter, and maybe any ideas on how to do this,like which wire goes where

I hope to get some more help from you guys, some more pictures over here:

[russc]

Um,
What exact ECU do you have? If its a pre-'85 you may have some issues? Anything newer than a 059 will be problematic for tuning!

The AFR can be checked for stochiometric with a NBO2. But you really need a wideband for precise fueling. If you have a way to datalog the NBO2, that can work for setting up a better fuel delivery.

Get that ECU #!!!!
RussC

My hp target is 252hp(aka 745i turbo's hp) hopefully i hope i can achieve that with 0,4bar(5,9psi). From as far as i know the L-Jetronic(also called Motronic 1.0 right?) can handle boost up to 1 bar(15psi), but i am not sure if my fuel injectors(192cc) can handle the extra power(185->252).

My car does not have an "λ"(lamda) sensor so any ideas on how to check the air fuel ratio? Can i just attach a lamda sensor on my car and use it alone with an halmeter, and maybe any ideas on how to do this,like which wire goes where

[babisbabou]

Just checked it, the number on the green label says:
/////////////////////////////////
0 280 001 310

1 706 418.9
////////////////////////////////

Um,
What exact ECU do you have? If its a pre-'85 you may have some issues? Anything newer than a 059 will be problematic for tuning!

The AFR can be checked for stochiometric with a NBO2. But you really need a wideband for precise fueling. If you have a way to datalog the NBO2, that can work for setting up a better fuel delivery.

Get that ECU #!!!!
Which ECU do you mean mate?

RussC

[russc]

What year is the car and original drivetrain?

edit: I looked it up. That ECU is OK. Its an adaptable. Although its a so much newer you may have other problems. Like the other OBD1 ECUs, you'll need extra boost fueling and a O2 clamp for reasonable operation.

RussC

[babisbabou]

I will fit an O2 sensor to my exhaust system OK, since my car does not have one atm, and also use a halmeter with it to check rich lean-poor-fuel, any assembly guide for cars with no 02 sensor available?(i will a narrow band for the time being )

Adaptable means has variables changing according to driving?

On Board Diagnostics 1 you said?is it the one into the engine bay used also for service?

What year is the car and original drivetrain?

edit: I looked it up. That ECU is OK. Its an adaptable. Although its a so much newer you may have other problems. Like the other OBD1 ECUs, you'll need extra boost fueling and a O2 clamp for reasonable operation.

RussC

[russc]

Yes, adaptaion means the ECU can compensate for all kinds of issues related to drivabilty and control.

The OBD1 ECUs were very late in the E28 cycle. In the US only the '88 528e had the OBDI ECUs(150). I don't know how many had them or how early in Europe. The OBDI ECUs will usally have the 20pin large round dia conn for the diagnostic port. The US cars stillused the oblong 16 pin conn. In it will be a comm port for talking to diag. equipment. You can even get real time data from it.

Actually,
Depending on the operation of your ECU, you may have more issues. Did your ECU orginally use a O2 sensor? I know alot of the euro cars didn't use O2 sensors ie the ECU has no input for one. If thats the case you almost can't use your ECU except for low boost applications(since you can't use bigger inj's unless you can reprogram the maps in the ECU). If your ECU has no O2 orginally, then it cant adapt to bigger injs.

RussC

I will fit an O2 sensor to my exhaust system OK, since my car does not have one atm, and also use a halmeter with it to check rich lean-poor-fuel, any assembly guide for cars with no 02 sensor available?(i will a narrow band for the time being )

Adaptable means has variables changing according to driving?

On Board Diagnostics 1 you said?is it the one into the engine bay used also for service?

What year is the car and original drivetrain?

edit: I looked it up. That ECU is OK. Its an adaptable. Although its a so much newer you may have other problems. Like the other OBD1 ECUs, you'll need extra boost fueling and a O2 clamp for reasonable operation.

RussC