528 "i" Powerband
528 "i" Powerband
I have a few quick questions about the e to i conversion on an 88 528e.
-Is the conversion worth the time and $ on an automatic transmission car?
-Is there any noticable improvement in power and performace at speeds lower than 3,000 rpm?
-How much is a well-maintained 88 325i complete engine with 166k miles and wiring harness worth and dme worth?
Thanks.
-Is the conversion worth the time and $ on an automatic transmission car?
-Is there any noticable improvement in power and performace at speeds lower than 3,000 rpm?
-How much is a well-maintained 88 325i complete engine with 166k miles and wiring harness worth and dme worth?
Thanks.
If you put a m30b28 with 184 hp in a car wich used to have a m20b27e with 129 hp, it will be a lot more power and torque in every part of the powerband, the m30 engines have lots of torqe compared to the m20.
As for the tranny, it is even faster with an manual transmission than a auto, did your replacement engine come with an auto or manual?, provided that you have gotten hold of one.
Manual transmissions ar both lighter in weight and more efficient, autos are better in straight line racing though.
The m20b25 from the e30 is also worth looking at, it will bolt up to your original transmission, it isn't far from the m30b28 in peak power (14 hp less), but does not have the same amount of torqe.
I dont know how much a m20b25 engine is worth over there, but i got my last replacement engine for 60 dollars, and the spent 150 dollars rebuilding it (parts and gaskets).
As for the tranny, it is even faster with an manual transmission than a auto, did your replacement engine come with an auto or manual?, provided that you have gotten hold of one.
Manual transmissions ar both lighter in weight and more efficient, autos are better in straight line racing though.
The m20b25 from the e30 is also worth looking at, it will bolt up to your original transmission, it isn't far from the m30b28 in peak power (14 hp less), but does not have the same amount of torqe.
I dont know how much a m20b25 engine is worth over there, but i got my last replacement engine for 60 dollars, and the spent 150 dollars rebuilding it (parts and gaskets).
I don't think PDX5 can be talking about putting a m30b28 engine in as they're rare in NA.e28stian wrote:If you put a m30b28 with 184 hp in a car wich used to have a m20b27e with 129 hp, it will be a lot more power and torque in every part of the powerband, the m30 engines have lots of torqe compared to the m20.
So what exactly is this "e" to "i" conversion?
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I don't think PDX5 can be talking about putting a m30b28 engine in as they're rare in NA.
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Learn something new every day, saw 528 i as subject, and only know of the m30b28 as an original engine dubbed 2,8i in e28.
So he's talking about modifying the existing engine to an "i" configuration?, dont know much about that subject, but putting a 325 engine with the harness and would definitely give a healthy gain, as well as being a direct swap provided it has the tranny with the reference and speed sensors for the dme (doesent the 528e have motronic?), seems like the easier option than starting to modify the original engine.
I don't think PDX5 can be talking about putting a m30b28 engine in as they're rare in NA.
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Learn something new every day, saw 528 i as subject, and only know of the m30b28 as an original engine dubbed 2,8i in e28.
So he's talking about modifying the existing engine to an "i" configuration?, dont know much about that subject, but putting a 325 engine with the harness and would definitely give a healthy gain, as well as being a direct swap provided it has the tranny with the reference and speed sensors for the dme (doesent the 528e have motronic?), seems like the easier option than starting to modify the original engine.
On an 88 its very easy. You have the correct pistons for the 885 head with the stock 2.7l stroke. Your engine already has the 885 head, just in a slightly different configuration. You can literally bolt on a 325i head and intake, install the 325i AFM and ecu and call it done. That should net about 180 HP.
Automatic cars suck in general. It wont be as much faster as it would be on a manual tranny car, but it will be faster. Swap it out for a man's trans and you'll be glad you will.
Automatic cars suck in general. It wont be as much faster as it would be on a manual tranny car, but it will be faster. Swap it out for a man's trans and you'll be glad you will.
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Kenny Blankenship
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Just get an an adjustable powerband 
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paddylopez
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- Location: Boise, ID
What the hell is that?tsmall07 wrote:Just get an an adjustable powerband
Look through the site some. I think you'll get the general idea.paddylopez wrote:What the hell is that?tsmall07 wrote:Just get an an adjustable powerband
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paddylopez
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AllGo'n'Show
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- Joined: Aug 11, 2007
- Location: Calgary, Canada
What year 325i head's work on the 88 528e?
I need 325i head, intake, ecu, and afm and that is it?
Plug and play from there or simply wiring mods? Any sites with that specific info?
Would the diff from my 89 735iL Auto work in the rearend of an e28? Is it a worth while upgrade along with the heads and such, not too worried about the gas milage as it won't be driven that much, I have a daily driver.
Thanks all!
I need 325i head, intake, ecu, and afm and that is it?
Plug and play from there or simply wiring mods? Any sites with that specific info?
Would the diff from my 89 735iL Auto work in the rearend of an e28? Is it a worth while upgrade along with the heads and such, not too worried about the gas milage as it won't be driven that much, I have a daily driver.
Thanks all!
My favorite is the heavy duty tire beads !!e28stian wrote:NIIce, ill have to get me some of those adjustable powerbands, might just go for them cross drilled brake lines as well, since my turbonator just doubled the powwah of my radiator insulated 518 carburated e28 8)
Hilarious site
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Bill in MN
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- Location: The Boonies, Mn
- Contact:
The '88 528 has a motor that's kind of a bastard. In reality it's basically a punched out 325 motor with a milder cam and single valve springs. The beauty of doing an "i" swap on this platform is that the only things you really need to do is install an i cam and dual valve springs. Everything else is compatable.
Don't quote me on this because I changed out my harness to that of a Motronic 1.3, but I'm told that that an "i" compatable chip will actually work using the stock harness. Someone with more knowlege can chime in on that one.
Go to some of the e30 boards and search for "e to i" swaps. It's been done numerous times and there's a treasure trove of information out there. In short, however, this swap is pretty easy with the SuperEta.
Don't quote me on this because I changed out my harness to that of a Motronic 1.3, but I'm told that that an "i" compatable chip will actually work using the stock harness. Someone with more knowlege can chime in on that one.
Go to some of the e30 boards and search for "e to i" swaps. It's been done numerous times and there's a treasure trove of information out there. In short, however, this swap is pretty easy with the SuperEta.
I love my e to I hybrid engine but I did a different way then most my combo includes.
Eta block, crank, rods, etc.. Eta head but with major port work on both intake and exhaust, eta valves, I dual valve springs, after market ~280 duration cam, i intake and exhaust manifolds, then megasquirt running full spark and fuel. Everyone that has ridden with me thinks the engine makes 190-200 hp, I'm thinking more around 180 but haven't dynoed it yet.
Eta block, crank, rods, etc.. Eta head but with major port work on both intake and exhaust, eta valves, I dual valve springs, after market ~280 duration cam, i intake and exhaust manifolds, then megasquirt running full spark and fuel. Everyone that has ridden with me thinks the engine makes 190-200 hp, I'm thinking more around 180 but haven't dynoed it yet.
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AllGo'n'Show
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- Location: Calgary, Canada
That's kind of what I am looking to do but trying to outweight my choices.rs4pro3 wrote:I love my e to I hybrid engine but I did a different way then most my combo includes.
Eta block, crank, rods, etc.. Eta head but with major port work on both intake and exhaust, eta valves, I dual valve springs, after market ~280 duration cam, i intake and exhaust manifolds, then megasquirt running full spark and fuel. Everyone that has ridden with me thinks the engine makes 190-200 hp, I'm thinking more around 180 but haven't dynoed it yet.
The current motor has 355xxx km on it, sounds like it runs pretty good so far, small oil leak somewhere but it has an auto which I want to swap out.
My choices right now are...
1. Do all my exterior paint, mods, rims, suspension, interior and just drive the slushbox till something blows and throw in a new motor/5spd combo *maybe 3.6L out of the E34 M5, would be fun*
2. Do 1, plus while the original motor is still working do some small things to it over time, head, intake swap, ecu chip or MSII
3. Keep the m20b27 motor in there, even if it blows rebuild it stronger, do a turbo application somewhere down the road but atleast the car will remain all original engine and such just beefier
my opinion: no and no-Is the conversion worth the time and $ on an automatic transmission car?
-Is there any noticable improvement in power and performace at speeds lower than 3,000 rpm?
I did this conversion many years ago and realized that it does not help an auto car -- might even make it worse. The greater hp of the i engine is not because of any significant increase in torque. The i engine just moves the torque curve up about 800 rpm and keeps it flat at high rpm.
You have to keep the revs up to feel any difference and that's hard to do with an auto trans.
*ON AN 88 528* any e30 325i head will work. You can also use one from an e34 M20 525i. You are correct about the intake, AFM and ECU. Thats it. Your stock harness plugs into the 325i parts. Plug and play on the 88.AllGo'n'Show wrote:What year 325i head's work on the 88 528e?
I need 325i head, intake, ecu, and afm and that is it?
Plug and play from there or simply wiring mods? Any sites with that specific info?
Would the diff from my 89 735iL Auto work in the rearend of an e28? Is it a worth while upgrade along with the heads and such, not too worried about the gas milage as it won't be driven that much, I have a daily driver.
Thanks all!
e32 diffs might work, but theres no reason not to use an e28/e30 diff. Its not like you cant find the right ratio.
Well, not exactly. The 2.5i and 2.7e engines use the same block. They both have the same 84mm bore. The super e has the same eta crank and rods as earlier eta's, but with special pistons to fit the 885 head and 81mm stroke of the 2.7 crank. They also lower the compression ratio to only 8.5 to 1, as opposed to 8.8 to 1 for the 2.5i motor and 9 to 1 for standard eta's.Bill in MN wrote:The '88 528 has a motor that's kind of a bastard. In reality it's basically a punched out 325 motor with a milder cam and single valve springs. The beauty of doing an "i" swap on this platform is that the only things you really need to do is install an i cam and dual valve springs. Everything else is compatable.
Don't quote me on this because I changed out my harness to that of a Motronic 1.3, but I'm told that that an "i" compatable chip will actually work using the stock harness. Someone with more knowlege can chime in on that one.
Go to some of the e30 boards and search for "e to i" swaps. It's been done numerous times and there's a treasure trove of information out there. In short, however, this swap is pretty easy with the SuperEta.
The super e head is identical to the 325i head, with the 42/36 valves and port work. The difference is in the cam. Most super e's had the same four bearing cam as the early eta engine. Those produced after 9/87 got a seven bearing eta cam. So the early cars need to have the heads drilled to oil the other three journals just like early eta heads. Its not even a big deal. Four holes.
Other than that you just need to add inner valve springs. Then the head and intake can be installed. The AFM and ECU swap is a peice of cake. You could do the whole conversion in a day on an 88. It might not be a rocket NA, but its a truly great platform for a turbo project...
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AllGo'n'Show
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- Location: Calgary, Canada
Thanksturbodan wrote:*ON AN 88 528* any e30 325i head will work. You can also use one from an e34 M20 525i. You are correct about the intake, AFM and ECU. Thats it. Your stock harness plugs into the 325i parts. Plug and play on the 88.AllGo'n'Show wrote:What year 325i head's work on the 88 528e?
I need 325i head, intake, ecu, and afm and that is it?
Plug and play from there or simply wiring mods? Any sites with that specific info?
Would the diff from my 89 735iL Auto work in the rearend of an e28? Is it a worth while upgrade along with the heads and such, not too worried about the gas milage as it won't be driven that much, I have a daily driver.
Thanks all!
e32 diffs might work, but theres no reason not to use an e28/e30 diff. Its not like you cant find the right ratio.
My question about the diff is just because I have an 89 735iL I'm selling for parts in my garage and the diff is still good in it, so I could take the diff out and then sell the rest or scrap it as I have to move and I could get a free diff out of the deal.


