Where can I get a key made?

[mojocoggo]

Long story short, I found out after I bought my E28 that there are separate keys for the ignition and door locks. I only have the ignition key, so I'm wondering where I can get a key for the locks made... Do I have to do this at a dealer? If I took just the ignition key to a locksmith would they be able to make a lock key or are the totally different?

[BMWCCA2]

Your car has likely had an ignition switch replaced if the key won't fit the doors. Does it fit the trunk or glove box lock? I'd bet the key number that BMW has on file for your car is the code for your door keys, but the easiest thing to do is to take your glove-box lock out, take it to a locksmith and let them make a key from that. If it fits your doors and trunk, too, then mystery solved. Originally one key fit everything. (We'll get into the esoteric dead-bolt functions later.)

[Mike W.]

I'll give a rundown on what it should be like.

One key should work everything, if it is the original "owners" key. The car also came with a valet key that worked doors and ignition, but not trunk or glove compartment. If all you have is a valet key, you need to get the key code from the dealer and have them or a locksmith (not the local hardware store) code cut a key.

If the ignition is different from the rest, it has probably been replaced. It can be repinned, I have done it, but it is a pain. Glove compartment- easy, doors- easy, trunk- not easy and ignition is a real pain. And if you repin the trunk so it works with the valet key, it won't work when you get the correct key. I know, I've been there.

[David in NC]

If that is your problem, you can order a lock cylinder for your ignition switch that is keyed the way your car was originally. It cost me about $50 from the Pimpsta.

[BMWCCA2]

Don't confuse the poor guy! He already said the ignition key won't work in the doors, so we know it isn't a valet-key issue. I'd say the choice would be to order a key cut to code from BMW and see if it fits the doors, glove-box, and trunk, and go from there. But taking the glove-box lock to a locksmith is easy enough, it just may not have all the "leaves" the door cylinders have and it certainly won't have the dead-bolt leaf at the tip.

[Jeremy]

The locksmiths I've dealt with won't cut stainless steel keys, they don't even have stainless blanks. I got one to do it in brass for me as a spare a LONG time ago, but he told me not to come complain if it broke off in the door or ignition.

Go to the dealer with your VIN and proof of ownership, they'll order you a new, factory cut, key. If it opens the trunk and doors but won't turn the ignition (very likely), you can go back and order an ignition switch keyed to your original key code so you'll only need one key to do it all. Or just keep things the way they are using two keys.

This is what Phil was suggesting, I just wanted to fill in some details.

Jeremy

[Blue Shadow]

I've ordered a key cut to the code of the car and it did not fit anything on my car. BMW lost the code for my car in the few months between the time they made the car and the time I bought it. Actually I think BMW never had the key number for my car written down correctly.

[BMWCCA2]

Most of the cars sold in the U.S. since about 1985 have the key numbers on record at BMW NA. The only ones we consistently had problems retrieving were European Delivery U.S. spec cars. And of course BMW does not have key codes for cars they did not sell, and that would include all gray-market cars. It's worth a try I think. Locksmiths don't like to cut steel keys because it wears out their cutting wheels more quickly. When our dealership gave up on our old manual cutting machine, it disappeared only to resurface in my garage a few years later. Now I copy keys for my Isetta's on up, not including the E34!

[Dana R]

Most of the cars sold in the U.S. since about 1985 have the key numbers on record at BMW NA. The only ones we consistently had problems retrieving were European Delivery U.S. spec cars. And of course BMW does not have key codes for cars they did not sell, and that would include all gray-market cars. It's worth a try I think. Locksmiths don't like to cut steel keys because it wears out their cutting wheels more quickly. When our dealership gave up on our old manual cutting machine, it disappeared only to resurface in my garage a few years later. Now I copy keys for my Isetta's on up, not including the E34!

Now we know where to send those pesky stainless keys to have them cut!

[johnnye23]

I have a parts car with all matching locks if your interested pm me, and yes I have the correct key . oops except for the glovebox.

[Jeremy]

When our dealership gave up on our old manual cutting machine, it disappeared only to resurface in my garage a few years later. Now I copy keys for my Isetta's on up, not including the E34!

Can you do that neat trick where you can "read" the key code of a key by looking/feeling the indentations?

Jeremy

[BudFox]

FWIW, I had my dealer here cut me a key on the spot in 10 minutes, without advance notice or appointment. I bought a lighted key blank on ebay and gladley handed it to the parts manager for cutting. Mine is an '87, so it may have fallen into what BMWCCA2 said regarding BMW maintaining the key records. However, please learn from my mistake: I fell victim to having the dealer replace a bad ingition tumbler and steering wheel lock (didn't think I could do it myself) - they got me for $400 w/ labor, BUT - the kid doing the work broke the turn signal stalk mechanism, so they put a new one on for "free".

What have we learned from this experience class?? One must always turn to the Bentley for pause and inspiration.

[C.R. Krieger]

When our dealership gave up on our old manual cutting machine, it disappeared only to resurface in my garage a few years later. Now I copy keys for my Isetta's on up, not including the E34!

Can you do that neat trick where you can "read" the key code of a key by looking/feeling the indentations?

I can't do that, but I can disassemble the tumblers alongside a known one and usually make a different one match the key (albeit with a few less parts in it ).

[ElGuappo]

I am in a similar boat. I have been oeprating with jsut 1 key to my car for a year and a half now....always sweating losing or breaking that damn key....

I need to get off my arse and get down to the dealer to have a couple of brand new ones cut.

Jay3

[rob535i]

Glad to hear that I am not the only one that is down to 1 key LOL

[BRRV]

WOW (best Ben Stein imitation) - the minutiae of these cars is fascinating. Years ago, I ordered a key from BMW, based on my VIN. It arrived, it didn't work. We had to make a photocopy of the original factory key I had (I'm not kidding) and send it to BMW NA for them to make a key. This worked, and I have been able to successfully make copies of this key on blanks (ILCO) at my local ACE hardware store for years (the original factory key is locked up safe and sound). Granted, they aren't stainless, but this isn't an E30, so it hasn't been a a problem. Here in Denver, there is only ONE PLACE in town that the dealer will refer you to go have a master key cut from a BMW blank, and it's all the way across town. And it costs something like 35 bucks (we had to do this with the E30 a while ago).

[JohnH]

Can anyone tell me how I get the lock cylinder out of an early course spined column?
I can do it on a new style column in about three seconds, but I have been looking at this old one for three days now and am none the wiser.

[Mike W.]

Can anyone tell me how I get the lock cylinder out of an early course spined column?

God, it's been years. But I think it goes like this, you remove all the shearbolts, using a punch to start them or drill them off or a dremmel to slot them, then turn the key in the lock, then pull it out. You may have to drop the column some, but it may just be the shearbolts that do it, that part is a little foggy. But I think I remember something about a band that kind of retracts when you turn the key and allows the cylinder to be removed. Now taking apart the cylinder isn't easy, so we'll stop here.

I can do it on a new style column in about three seconds

Now that one I don't know. I sometimes run across good steering wheels in the yards I can't pull, so how do you do it?

I am in a similar boat. I have been oeprating with jsut 1 key to my car for a year and a half now

Are you guys crazy??? Do you know what a pain it's going to be if you lose the key or lend it to someone who twists the thing right off? Go down to the local locksmith and get a $4 brass key made, I've been using one for the past 120K now and it shows some wear, but not much and works well without any bends. Geez guys, just get a cheap spare that works, it's really cheap insurance.

[JohnH]

Now that one I don't know. I sometimes run across good steering wheels in the yards I can't pull, so how do you do it?

We may be talking at cross purposes here. I on about removing the lock cylinder. ie the thing you put the key into, not the column lock which is the thing that goes between the lock cylinder and the ignition switch. Having said that I think that you need to remove either end to get the column lock out anyway.

So, on a fine splined column you remove the lower cover, and if you get a mirror and have a look under the cylinder you will see a little 1/16" hole just off centre. Put the key in the lock and stick a little screw driver in the little hole and push upwards while turning the key a little, and you will feel the screw driver move up a bit more. Now by pulling the key out a bit the hole lock cylinder together with the key will fall into the palm of your hand.

In the E12 Haynes manual it describes a similar method for the course splined column. I quote 'the lock cylinder can be removed by using a pointed tool to depress the stop spring'. I just cant locate this 'stop spring' .

[Michael P, C'ville]

Ok, now you guys have freaked me out enough to try getting a spare (again) for the 1 key I've had for the past 5 years. Here's the problem, though:

'87 535is (10/86 build date)

I have 1 key that fits everything, including glovebox and deadbolt. It appears to be from BMW and has an "S" stamped into the top of the exposed part of the key. Several years ago, I ordered a spare key from the dealer and what showed up didn't even come close to fitting anything. The part of the key that goes into the tumbler didn't even look anything like the key I have. My key is very narrow; the one that showed up at the dealer had a much wider 'blade.'

The previous PO (very conscientous DIYer) said he never replaced keys or locks and had only one key. I have no reason to doubt him. The PO before that (bought car new) kept meticulous records of dealer maintenance, and I can find no reference to tumbler or key replacement, except for an order for a lighted key. I do not have the lighted key - just a plain-jane key with the plastic top.

Any suggestions? Is Ace the place for me?

[BRRV]

Any suggestions? Is Ace the place for me?

I had the exact same problem, and was told by the Senior Tech at Murray Motors that BMW's records aren't all that good in this respect. I had the original-issue key, the valet key, the back up key - everything, and the code in the records didn't match the key that arrived. The fix at that time was to photocopy the key and send it to BMW NA to duplicate on a (factory) blank. Rather than go through this brain damage again, I've been successfully making keys from the master-copy (not the original) at my local ACE for years. They have a plastic headed ILCO key blank in brass (BMW3-P) that is exact size and shape of the 2nd key that comes with the car (not the valet key). I'm sure any competent locksmith has the same key as well. They last, they don't break and they are about 4 bucks a pop I think.

[Michael P, C'ville]

...photocopy the key and send it to BMW NA to duplicate on a (factory) blank.

Thanks, Rick. I'll give it a shot.

On the other hand, my previous 1 key experience involved losing it overboard while sailing a Fireball 420 in Bawston Hahbah. A mobile locksmith came out, broke into the VW Bus to which I now had no keys and fabbed a new key for the ignition in about 10 minutes. I realized after he was paid and gone that he never asked for any proof of ownership of the car. That was sobering.

[FLAE28]

I just went to ACE per Rick's suggestion to get a copy made of my one and only 1984 528e ignition key. The kid who waited on me was younger than my e28 and said they didn't have the key, told me mine had a 'chip'. I insisted we look at his blanks because my car was made before they used chips. They had the blank BMW3P and it works!

Thanks guys for the great info. Will save me a lot of frustration if I ever lose a key!

[BudFox]

Kids..........what the hell do they know?????