cast 528e one?
Also i am comparing them and the liitle hub on the end is a little different.
Is it a direct drop in the block? 528e
I have the M20 528e block but cant get the little housing on the end of the crank off the 524td crank, ive taken off the main bolt on the end of the crank too :((
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how much stronger is the crank in this car versus a normal
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- Posts: 11952
- Joined: Oct 03, 2007 3:04 PM
- Location: Lodi, California
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- Posts: 11952
- Joined: Oct 03, 2007 3:04 PM
- Location: Lodi, California
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- Posts: 11952
- Joined: Oct 03, 2007 3:04 PM
- Location: Lodi, California
i dont have them anymore, i sold them both already, but ill let you know if i find one.
With a 3 series, you are better off keeping the short stroke so its easier to rev higher.
Getting the cam reground from racetep or ireland engineering, to a 272 or higher, 173 ECU too.
You can go further with a 303 cam or something in that range, but that would push your compression ratio super high and i think those ones that high have too much overlap and make the car lumpy.
You can just shot peen, and teardrop the crank and its super strong.
Its all about weight of the car really, you can make up for the big stroke with higher compression pistons, and the torque is more multiplied (short stroke) at higher RPM which is better for a lighter car.
With a lighter car you can go less torque and more horsepower cause torque is what pushes the car, and you dont need that much for the go-kart 3er.
Thats my 2 cents though, you can do anything you'd like but it would be better that way.
I mean it all depends on what kind of driving you do, if its in town stop light battles you would want a bigger stroke cause you dont have time to be flailing about with all the lower RPM, and not be producing power until like 5900 or 6300 RPM.
Even though its not producing power (the crank) it signifies specfiically how hard the torque is produced, crappy example in a way, cant explain it without a graph or pictures.
when i find a crank ill let you know though
later
With a 3 series, you are better off keeping the short stroke so its easier to rev higher.
Getting the cam reground from racetep or ireland engineering, to a 272 or higher, 173 ECU too.
You can go further with a 303 cam or something in that range, but that would push your compression ratio super high and i think those ones that high have too much overlap and make the car lumpy.
You can just shot peen, and teardrop the crank and its super strong.
Its all about weight of the car really, you can make up for the big stroke with higher compression pistons, and the torque is more multiplied (short stroke) at higher RPM which is better for a lighter car.
With a lighter car you can go less torque and more horsepower cause torque is what pushes the car, and you dont need that much for the go-kart 3er.
Thats my 2 cents though, you can do anything you'd like but it would be better that way.
I mean it all depends on what kind of driving you do, if its in town stop light battles you would want a bigger stroke cause you dont have time to be flailing about with all the lower RPM, and not be producing power until like 5900 or 6300 RPM.
Even though its not producing power (the crank) it signifies specfiically how hard the torque is produced, crappy example in a way, cant explain it without a graph or pictures.
when i find a crank ill let you know though
later
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- Posts: 425
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
The 325e/528e eta crank is identical to the 524td crank except for the fact that the 524td crank is forged. unless you are constantly revving over 6500rpm, the 524td crank is not needed. i use a 325e/528e crank in my 2.7 Liter turbo m20. it can handel power, just not the harmonics from the extremely high revving. If you are considering the 524td crank, then you must have already installed forged connecting rods. the rods in the m20 are a weaker link than the crank.