I tried to repair the speedometer, and I did achieve success*, yet the backlight stopped working. And I have no idea how it happened. Worse, I don't have any more ideas about how to repair it.
At first, the right bulb stopped working. I thought, "Okay, I short-circuited, or else. I will replace it, and it will be fine."
I replaced the right side one... and both stopped working. What the heck?
I've checked the fuses (5, 6, and 9) by swapping them (with 2). Everything is fine, all of them are intact. So there was no short-circuit in the first place, it seems.
I've also checked the dimmer, but it doesn't affect dead-dark bulbs in any way. The rest of the instruments dim/light up correctly.
The car is '83 BMW 518 (without i), European version with VDO instrument cluster. Images below. Bulbs have Ga RAY, not brown case.

* Removed the corroded VARTA batteries, and did a bypass as described in this thread: viewtopic.php?t=94937. 12V+ bypass was enough. Didn't need to do all 3 of them.