1988 528e to i conversion

[bowlandc]

Hey everyone! Im looking to convert my 88 528e engine. I heard its relatively easy to convert it with 325i engine parts and am hoping some people on here have some experience with it. If the things iv been reading are right, all ill need is the cam with dual springs, injectors, intake manifold, and throttle body with tps and boot. Am i missing anything? And what year should these parts come from, an 88? And since mine is an auto, do the parts need to be from an auto as well? Thanks in advance for any help

[John in VA]

I typed e to i in the search box in the upper right corner of the page and got about 13,300 results (0.44 seconds). Should answer most of your questions.
Here's some discussion from an E30 site - http://www.strictlyeta.net/technical/328i_1.html
Good luck!

[delorean175]

This isn't much help but. Are you going N/A or forced induction? From what I've learned your superETA pistons are better for an N/A setup vs pre 88 ETA pistons. What i used as a guide for what parts i need. I made sure to get everything between the head and the air box, plus wire harness (which you have), sensors, crank pully, position sensor + bracket (you already have thise as well). Anyway best of luck on your swap. You dont need nearly as many parts as I do. Lol I'm building my self a 2.7L engine for my 82 528e.

[bowlandc]

This isn't much help but. Are you going N/A or forced induction? From what I've learned your superETA pistons are better for an N/A setup vs pre 88 ETA pistons. What i used as a guide for what parts i need. I made sure to get everything between the head and the air box, plus wire harness (which you have), sensors, crank pully, position sensor + bracket (you already have thise as well). Anyway best of luck on your swap. You dont need nearly as many parts as I do. Lol I'm building my self a 2.7L engine for my 82 528e.

Im still in planning mode so im not sure yet. Just to clarify what do you mean by a n/a setup? And thanks for the help

[bowlandc]

This isn't much help but. Are you going N/A or forced induction? From what I've learned your superETA pistons are better for an N/A setup vs pre 88 ETA pistons. What i used as a guide for what parts i need. I made sure to get everything between the head and the air box, plus wire harness (which you have), sensors, crank pully, position sensor + bracket (you already have thise as well). Anyway best of luck on your swap. You dont need nearly as many parts as I do. Lol I'm building my self a 2.7L engine for my 82 528e.

Im still in planning mode so im not sure yet. Just to clarify what do you mean by a n/a setup? And thanks for the help

Sorry i hadnt had my coffee yet, understood. I was hoping to possibly turbocharge it but is the compression to high?

[duggi]

Actually the later engine/pistons are better for FI, due to their already-lower compression ratio of 8.5:1. The 87 and earlier cars run at 9.0:1. I have an e2i running the earlier setup at a 9:1 ratio and it's great.

[ElGuappo]

If you go to put just the 325 cam and valve springs into the 885 head, you will still have an issue. You also need to drill 2 more oil passages.
It's easier to get a 325i head and install it (after getting it checked out at a machine shop of course) than it is to do the cam and springs.
The rest is just following the directions of the many who have done this before.

I have a conversion happening in the next 3-4 weeks hopefully, but still need to get my 325i head stripped of the cam and rocker assemblies so the machine shop can clean and verify integrity.
Be careful which 325 you get things like the throttle body & boot from, there are differences with the vacuum holes for the brake system. I think I have the intake boot from an 87-88 325i. Also be mindful of the idle control valve orientation, whether the 325 uses the T valve or the L shaped valve.
I will be using M50 injectors, since at 3.0BAR they flow the right amount (they operate at 3.5BAR on the M50 vs. the 3.0BAR of the M20B25)

Read, read, then read some more until you are comfortable with everything that needs to be done.

[delorean175]

Actually the later engine/pistons are better for FI, due to their already-lower compression ratio of 8.5:1. The 87 and earlier cars run at 9.0:1. I have an e2i running the earlier setup at a 9:1 ratio and it's great.

Are your numbers for an engine that has been e2i swapped or before? According to strictlyeta.net regarding SETA pistons and an 885 Head. SETA pistons and an 885 should yield an 8.8:1 compression ratio. The ETA pistons are flat topped while the 885 head has a domed shaped chamber to go with dome shaped 2.5i pistons. Strictlyeta doesn't say exactly what CR the ETA pistons yield but they do state the CR is lower than SETA pistons. I read somewhere the CR is lower than 8.0:1. Someone was saying a build with that low of CR and being N/A the power is pretty comparable to a stock 2.5i engine give or take.
I plan on running a schrick 274 cam to counter that slightly lower power until I can get a nice turbo set up together.

strictlyeta.net is pretty informative about the e2i swap. I'll post the article I got my info from

http://www.strictlyeta.net/technical/328i_1.html

[2wheelsoff]

I run the eta bottom, flat tops, with 885 head + induction, motronic 1.3, stock cam. It is my daily driver and swapped 3+ years ago and drive 20k+ miles a year. I had a eBay chipped 173 dme, and feel the car runs better without a chip. I have since switched back. This is the same setup on our lemons racer.

If you are going to be driving this at around town speeds I recommend the STOCK cam. The low end torque is nice and pulls strong till 5k, then peters off. On the lemons car we port matched the exhaust (intake was almost in perfect alignment). We noticed the difference after matching the ports, especially on the upper end of power. Took 2-3 hours of grinding. This one pulls strong till 5.5-6k.

I've also noticed with the stock chip, lower octane= better torque. I have not noticed any pings at high rpm either. IIRC were calculated flat tops at 8.2:1 cr.

Bottom end= estimated 480k miles and burns 1 quart 1k-1.5k miles so at the end if it's life. Top end parts all junkyard mismatched. The only thing I think car needs is the single mass light weight flywheel (and exhaust port matching). Re think the cam if you want to keep the more end torque.

[duggi]

Actually the later engine/pistons are better for FI, due to their already-lower compression ratio of 8.5:1. The 87 and earlier cars run at 9.0:1. I have an e2i running the earlier setup at a 9:1 ratio and it's great.

Are your numbers for an engine that has been e2i swapped or before? According to strictlyeta.net regarding SETA pistons and an 885 Head. SETA pistons and an 885 should yield an 8.8:1 compression ratio. The ETA pistons are flat topped while the 885 head has a domed shaped chamber to go with dome shaped 2.5i pistons. Strictlyeta doesn't say exactly what CR the ETA pistons yield but they do state the CR is lower than SETA pistons. I read somewhere the CR is lower than 8.0:1. Someone was saying a build with that low of CR and being N/A the power is pretty comparable to a stock 2.5i engine give or take.
I plan on running a schrick 274 cam to counter that slightly lower power until I can get a nice turbo set up together.

strictlyeta.net is pretty informative about the e2i swap. I'll post the article I got my info from

http://www.strictlyeta.net/technical/328i_1.html

The super-eta already comes with an 885 head and has a compression ratio of 8.5:1 whereas 325i pistons with the 885 head get you 8.8:1. And yes, if you go with the earlier eta pistons and the 885 head, you're getting somewhere around 8.1:1, I believe.

[2 5's and a 7]

I've often wondered if I should bother with this conversion.

[duggi]

I've often wondered if I should bother with this conversion.

I wouldn't go back. People scoff that when all is said and done you're looking at power figures close to (maybe slightly over) the stock US-spec m30b34, but you have to remember that the power is coming from a much lighter engine, which has a positive effect on handling. The m20-powered e28s feel much nimbler than the m30 models, IMHO, and this really gets you the best compromise between power and handling without getting crazy on your overall build-out. My car feels as strong and fast as a 535i, but without the feeling that there's a boat-anchor mounted between the headlights.

[KrautnotRice]

I've often wondered if I should bother with this conversion.

I wouldn't go back. People scoff that when all is said and done you're looking at power figures close to (maybe slightly over) the stock US-spec m30b34, but you have to remember that the power is coming from a much lighter engine, which has a positive effect on handling. The m20-powered e28s feel much nimbler than the m30 models, IMHO, and this really gets you the best compromise between power and handling without getting crazy on your overall build-out. My car feels as strong and fast as a 535i, but without the feeling that there's a boat-anchor mounted between the headlights.

I love it, just what I needed to hear as I'm gathering parts to go 731 head / Motronic 1.3 on a sub 3000lb e28

[2 5's and a 7]

I've often wondered if I should bother with this conversion.

I wouldn't go back. People scoff that when all is said and done you're looking at power figures close to (maybe slightly over) the stock US-spec m30b34, but you have to remember that the power is coming from a much lighter engine, which has a positive effect on handling. The m20-powered e28s feel much nimbler than the m30 models, IMHO, and this really gets you the best compromise between power and handling without getting crazy on your overall build-out. My car feels as strong and fast as a 535i, but without the feeling that there's a boat-anchor mounted between the headlights.

Even thou it's bigger I can't see it making more then a M20B25...........defintely not as much torque as a M30B35. Some have any "real" numbers i'd like to see that.

[duggi]

I've often wondered if I should bother with this conversion.

I wouldn't go back. People scoff that when all is said and done you're looking at power figures close to (maybe slightly over) the stock US-spec m30b34, but you have to remember that the power is coming from a much lighter engine, which has a positive effect on handling. The m20-powered e28s feel much nimbler than the m30 models, IMHO, and this really gets you the best compromise between power and handling without getting crazy on your overall build-out. My car feels as strong and fast as a 535i, but without the feeling that there's a boat-anchor mounted between the headlights.

Even thou it's bigger I can't see it making more then a M20B25...........defintely not as much torque as a M30B35. Some have any "real" numbers i'd like to see that.

I'll be having mine dyno'd when the project is fully-completed, which will hopefully be sometime next summer. When that happens, I'll definitely post the results. And it makes noticeably more power than an m20b25. My partner has a 325is (e30, 1987) with a performance chip and manual transmission, but my heavier e28 with it's auto definitely feels more powerful. It's not as quick off the line, but that's really down to the diff, weight and the autobox. Realistically I know I'll be looking at ~200 hp and ~210-ish ft-lbs when everything's complete. I'm currently running an Alpina C2/B3 ecu which is stellar and works very nicely with the 264º cam in the 323i (731) head - the Alpina cam is a 268º.

[delorean175]

Actually the later engine/pistons are better for FI, due to their already-lower compression ratio of 8.5:1. The 87 and earlier cars run at 9.0:1. I have an e2i running the earlier setup at a 9:1 ratio and it's great.

Are your numbers for an engine that has been e2i swapped or before? According to strictlyeta.net regarding SETA pistons and an 885 Head. SETA pistons and an 885 should yield an 8.8:1 compression ratio. The ETA pistons are flat topped while the 885 head has a domed shaped chamber to go with dome shaped 2.5i pistons. Strictlyeta doesn't say exactly what CR the ETA pistons yield but they do state the CR is lower than SETA pistons. I read somewhere the CR is lower than 8.0:1. Someone was saying a build with that low of CR and being N/A the power is pretty comparable to a stock 2.5i engine give or take.
I plan on running a schrick 274 cam to counter that slightly lower power until I can get a nice turbo set up together.

strictlyeta.net is pretty informative about the e2i swap. I'll post the article I got my info from

http://www.strictlyeta.net/technical/328i_1.html

The super-eta already comes with an 885 head and has a compression ratio of 8.5:1 whereas 325i pistons with the 885 head get you 8.8:1. And yes, if you go with the earlier eta pistons and the 885 head, you're getting somewhere around 8.1:1, I believe.

Thats right the SETA does have an 885 head. I had one of those durrr moments.

[delorean175]

I run the eta bottom, flat tops, with 885 head + induction, motronic 1.3, stock cam. It is my daily driver and swapped 3+ years ago and drive 20k+ miles a year. I had a eBay chipped 173 dme, and feel the car runs better without a chip. I have since switched back. This is the same setup on our lemons racer.

If you are going to be driving this at around town speeds I recommend the STOCK cam. The low end torque is nice and pulls strong till 5k, then peters off. On the lemons car we port matched the exhaust (intake was almost in perfect alignment). We noticed the difference after matching the ports, especially on the upper end of power. Took 2-3 hours of grinding. This one pulls strong till 5.5-6k.

I've also noticed with the stock chip, lower octane= better torque. I have not noticed any pings at high rpm either. IIRC were calculated flat tops at 8.2:1 cr.

Bottom end= estimated 480k miles and burns 1 quart 1k-1.5k miles so at the end if it's life. Top end parts all junkyard mismatched. The only thing I think car needs is the single mass light weight flywheel (and exhaust port matching). Re think the cam if you want to keep the more end torque.

Your build is exactly what I'm trying to build. I have been looking into mega squirt but I have been reading you don't have to go that route. I'm still trying to figure that out. I think I will run a hotter cam ( schrick 274 maybe) for now and then switch back to the stock cam when I install a turbo. It will take me a while to come up with the parts. I'm so happy to hear its been a reliable build.

[KrautnotRice]

... I have been looking into mega squirt but I have been reading you don't have to go that route. I'm still trying to figure that out...

Sssquid makes a chip for the 173 ECU to run the 2.7i:
http://sssquid.com/v2/shop/e30/e30-327i ... sion-chip/

They also sell a complete 173 ECU with said chip if you want to skip sourcing a used ECU yourself:
http://sssquid.com/v2/shop/e30/pretuned ... -e30-327i/

[delorean175]

... I have been looking into mega squirt but I have been reading you don't have to go that route. I'm still trying to figure that out...

Sssquid makes a chip for the 173 ECU to run the 2.7i:
http://sssquid.com/v2/shop/e30/e30-327i ... sion-chip/

They also sell a complete 173 ECU with said chip if you want to skip sourcing a used ECU yourself:
http://sssquid.com/v2/shop/e30/pretuned ... -e30-327i/

Hey thanks for the info! I'll take a look at it and see how it looks. I think I may have seen it referenced before but had no idea what it was at the time.

[2 5's and a 7]

I might just go with a 3.25 or 3.46 diff and the later harness/engine management first, and see how that goes. At least I have the early lighter flywheel.

[tom4pope]

I've often wondered if I should bother with this conversion.

I wouldn't go back. People scoff that when all is said and done you're looking at power figures close to (maybe slightly over) the stock US-spec m30b34, but you have to remember that the power is coming from a much lighter engine, which has a positive effect on handling. The m20-powered e28s feel much nimbler than the m30 models, IMHO, and this really gets you the best compromise between power and handling without getting crazy on your overall build-out. My car feels as strong and fast as a 535i, but without the feeling that there's a boat-anchor mounted between the headlights.

Even thou it's bigger I can't see it making more then a M20B25...........defintely not as much torque as a M30B35. Some have any "real" numbers i'd like to see that.

I'll be having mine dyno'd when the project is fully-completed, which will hopefully be sometime next summer. When that happens, I'll definitely post the results. And it makes noticeably more power than an m20b25. My partner has a 325is (e30, 1987) with a performance chip and manual transmission, but my heavier e28 with it's auto definitely feels more powerful. It's not as quick off the line, but that's really down to the diff, weight and the autobox. Realistically I know I'll be looking at ~200 hp and ~210-ish ft-lbs when everything's complete. I'm currently running an Alpina C2/B3 ecu which is stellar and works very nicely with the 264º cam in the 323i (731) head - the Alpina cam is a 268º.

That ^ is going to be a pretty quick m20! I still wouldn't go back to an m20, owned 2, one with the e2i done. While they are more nimble feeling, the torque you get out of a slightly built b35 isn't touchable unless you really put some $$ into an m20 powered e28.

I have been in an e30 with a 2.7 e2i, 524td crank, custom pistons and a 294 cam. That thing MOVED. Wonder what it would feel like in an e28... The chassis has to make a difference.

[12valves]

I used to run a 2.7i, it was pretty close to my M50B25. Slightly more torque, less top end. Power is close to a stock M30B32 at least.

M50 uses the least fuel and is very responsive with its fancy injection. At full power it screams its lungs out in an uncivilized manner.
M30 is the heaviest, gets the worst mileage of the three, and sounds tame but confident.
M20 is the lightest, sounds like a smaller but naughtier M30.

[delorean175]

I'm happy to see the comparisons between the other possible engines. At this point I'm going with the m20 because its what I already have, and there seams to be a lot of e30's in my area so lots of parts available.

I did see a youtube video of a 2JZ powered e28. I fell in love with the idea.