Best engine paint

[Patrick McHugh]

My engine is currently completely apart for a rebuild, i'm going to have the manifold, VC, TC, tstat housing, brackets and pretty much every visible part media blasted. I've got a game plan for the aluminum pieces but i'm not sure what to do with the engine block.

Anybody have any recommendations for a gasoline, brake fluid and brake cleaner proof paint?

[Mike W.]

I'm not sure anything is brake fluid proof, but standard automotive paint is very tough stuff. The last couple of cars I've painted I didn't even use the hardener, which they suggest is mandatory, but also contains the really bad stuff, and I couldn't tell the difference. Normally gasoline pretty much melts paint, but think about it, how often does paint get spilled on some cars filling up? And how often do you see bare spots below?

You're got to spray it, either with a spray gun or a Preval system, well, unless you want to brush it, but it's good stuff.

BTW, I always paint the block a light color, usually silver, so I can see things later. If it's black it's just a black hole if you drop a nut down there.

[SF-535is]

I've used and had good results with the VHT engine paints.
My local auto parts store carries it but I also know its available at Summitracing.com and other online stores.

[OcCoupe]

VHT and duplicolor. Both sold at o'reilly. I did my engine with duplicolor. I used a foam brush when I couldn't use the spray can.

Eastwood probably has something good too.

[Patrick McHugh]

VHT and duplicolor. Both sold at o'reilly. I did my engine with duplicolor. I used a foam brush when I couldn't use the spray can.

Eastwood probably has something good too.

What are your thoughts on priming with a self etching primer?

[OcCoupe]

VHT and duplicolor. Both sold at o'reilly. I did my engine with duplicolor. I used a foam brush when I couldn't use the spray can.

Eastwood probably has something good too.

What are your thoughts on priming with a self etching primer?

I didn't do it. I would definitely have considered it; but I don't know of a hi-temp self etching primer. The paint itself is very durable. I would follow the instructions for proper prep.

I've since scrubbed and degreased and pressure washed the block and the paint held up very well. No flaking or failures that I could see. This was 2 years after I painted the block and many heat cycles.

[vinceg101]

I've got a game plan for the aluminum pieces but i'm not sure what to do with the engine block.

I'm going to be doing this also this year. What is your strategy for the aluminum parts?

[foolish]

I think that the prep is more important than the paint itself. I think almost any engine paint would work OK. FWIW I recall that Metric Mechanic used Krylon on their motors. Not expensive by any means but reasonably durable.

[athayer187]

VHT and duplicolor. Both sold at o'reilly. I did my engine with duplicolor. I used a foam brush when I couldn't use the spray can.

Eastwood probably has something good too.

What are your thoughts on priming with a self etching primer?

If you get the block hot tanked or otherwise very clean, you shouldn't need it. I've had great results with anything acrylic urethane (typically automotive paint). You can usually get spray cans made at your local automotive paint supplier in any color.

[Patrick McHugh]

I've got a game plan for the aluminum pieces but i'm not sure what to do with the engine block.

I'm going to be doing this also this year. What is your strategy for the aluminum parts?

The machine shop is going to media blast everything and then i'm going to coat with a product by Modesta, it's a clear "wax" type coating used on high end cars and is very resistant to high temperatures and chemicals.

I'm hoping this will prevent surface corrosion and keep grease from settling down into the nooks and crannies on the metal.

[jodystevens]

I bought the POR-15 engine kit. I haven't applied it yet but it has good reviews. Those damn iron blocks like to rust

[GI jonas]

VHT is not at all bothered by being on the turbine housing of my holset. That puppy nearly glows and the paint is all like

[Patrick McHugh]

VHT is not at all bothered by being on the turbine housing of my holset. That puppy nearly glows and the paint is all like

LOL nice.

[Tammer in Philly]

I've got a game plan for the aluminum pieces but i'm not sure what to do with the engine block.

I'm going to be doing this also this year. What is your strategy for the aluminum parts?

The machine shop is going to media blast everything and then i'm going to coat with a product by Modesta, it's a clear "wax" type coating used on high end cars and is very resistant to high temperatures and chemicals.

I'm hoping this will prevent surface corrosion and keep grease from settling down into the nooks and crannies on the metal.

What are options for getting a block clean if it isn't fully disassembled? I have my track car's engine out, but no need to rebuild it and the head gasket is recent. But, it would be nice to get it cleaned up before reinstalling. Thoughts on good ways to do that are welcome. So far I've just degreased and given it a good brushing and washing.

-tammer

[Patrick McHugh]

I've got a game plan for the aluminum pieces but i'm not sure what to do with the engine block.

I'm going to be doing this also this year. What is your strategy for the aluminum parts?

The machine shop is going to media blast everything and then i'm going to coat with a product by Modesta, it's a clear "wax" type coating used on high end cars and is very resistant to high temperatures and chemicals.

I'm hoping this will prevent surface corrosion and keep grease from settling down into the nooks and crannies on the metal.

What are options for getting a block clean if it isn't fully disassembled? I have my track car's engine out, but no need to rebuild it and the head gasket is recent. But, it would be nice to get it cleaned up before reinstalling. Thoughts on good ways to do that are welcome. So far I've just degreased and given it a good brushing and washing.

-tammer

Buy an entire case of brake cleaner cans at advance auto, they're pretty affordable there and their house brand seems to have less nasty fumes.

Spray that thing down! Make sure whatever rags you use to soak up the mess on the floor don't go into a trashcan where they can light on fire.

[leadphut]

My only advice is no day-glow colors. Keep'em OEM colors!

[vinceg101]

I've got a game plan for the aluminum pieces but i'm not sure what to do with the engine block.

I'm going to be doing this also this year. What is your strategy for the aluminum parts?

The machine shop is going to media blast everything and then i'm going to coat with a product by Modesta, it's a clear "wax" type coating used on high end cars and is very resistant to high temperatures and chemicals.

I'm hoping this will prevent surface corrosion and keep grease from settling down into the nooks and crannies on the metal.

Modesta is interesting stuff, more like a hi-tec liquid ceramic coating. The detailing world seems a-flutter about this and other coatings in this category (the demos of them using a Sharpie on a cars' paint are impressive: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWka2KkD6Ns). Doesn't look cheap, but seems like it might really work in an engine bay. You should be able to use it on the entire bay, block and all the parts (although the small parts and nooks & crannies might be difficult to apply correctly).

VHT and duplicolor. Both sold at o'reilly. I did my engine with duplicolor. I used a foam brush when I couldn't use the spray can.

Eastwood probably has something good too

Eastwood has their own as well as VHT:http://www.eastwood.com/paints/hi-temp- ... s.html?p=1

[wkohler]

My only advice is no day-glow colors. Keep'em OEM colors!

CHEVY ORANGE!!!!!!11111one

[tig]

BTW, I always paint the block a light color, usually silver, so I can see things later. If it's black it's just a black hole if you drop a nut down there.

I'm regretting painting my 'new' block black. I wish I would have gone with silver, which is what I originally wanted. Then I changed my mind. Now it's black. I suppose I could just paint over the black.

[Blue Shadow]

even black looks good with those nice clean pistons.

[pldlnr]

My only advice is no day-glow colors. Keep'em OEM colors!

CHEVY ORANGE!!!!!!11111one

YES!!!!! 1111111111111111

[Tammer in Philly]

My only advice is no day-glow colors. Keep'em OEM colors!

CHEVY ORANGE!!!!!!11111one

Funny, I was thinking of doing the track car block in Hugger Orange because the car will be white and orange, and because not black. But if I paint it at all, it will be white or silver.

Hugger is a great color though.

[VW+bimmer=bliss]

I vote Chevy orange, I love that color on an engine, and it makes it easier to see leaks or dropped hardware like Mike stated earlier

[Tammer in Philly]

Patrick, thanks for the suggestion. I stripped the sides of the block today, hit it with a wire wheel, lots of brake cleaner as you suggested, and some silver high-temp paint. It's not the most amazing engine paint job ever, but not bad for an assembled motor and way, way better than it was.

[Jeremy]

Any pics, Tammer?

Something along the lines of the BMW 2002 "Golf" green-yellow would be appropriately obnoxious I think. Is that color available in engine paint?

I've seen blue on an engine block before, I liked that color. Ford color, but it looked better than the GM orange IMHO.

For the intake manifold, I once saw the intake manifold on a local turbo m30 (can't remember whose) that was done with a clear powder coating. Just plain aluminum underneath. It looked fantastic.

[Mike W.]

FWIW guys, you don't need high temp on engine blocks. At least I've never used it and never had a problem with temps. Chemical resistance is key, not temp.

[alabbasi]

I bought the POR-15 engine kit. I haven't applied it yet but it has good reviews. Those damn iron blocks like to rust

I've used POR-15 on floor pans and other areas that need a little bit of strength. It's very tough and would make excellent engine paint. I would keep it away from any bolts or threads if want to get the bolt off.

[wkohler]

POR-15 doesn't stick to clean metal.

[jodystevens]

The engine block kit comes with "Metal Ready" for this reason. It leaves a zinc phosphate coating that POR-15 loves to stick to. You could always just let the block flash rust after you clean it and then paint it as well.

[Tammer in Philly]

I have a couple pics, but not uploaded yet. Will post. The paint I had around was a little more metallic silver than I'd like, but it was in the shop already and I didn't have to drive to buy it. Of course, now that the engine is painted, the valve cover will have to be refinished. Scope creep continues.

I will start a separate thread, but I started out planning to do a rear main seal replacement, some bushing replacements, and new dampers. Now I'm doing:
---Rear main seal, clutch, flywheel, resealed gearbox, pilot bearing, TOB, other clutch small bits
---Aluminum motor & trans mounts
---Heater core delete, coolant port at rear of head blocked off, hoses re-routed, expansion tank relocated
---Fuel injectors cleaned and flow-matched, all fuel lines replaced (except pump to hard feed line), new o-rings
ZHP steering rack, all new PS hoses and fittings, nearly solid (95A poly) steering column guibo
---Brake booster delete, Tilton 2-pedal setup, 4-wheel StopTech kit sized for non-boosted setup (332mm front/ 328mm rear rotors) - this is overkill but the crappy E36 brake pedal feel was killing me and I got the 4-wheel kit, new in box, for less than a front-only setup runs retail
---Suspension: front sway, double-adjustable dampers, 800 lb front/ 900 lb rear springs, new FCAs, adjustable rear LCAs, every bushing replaced with spherical bearing (trailing arms, upper control arm inner and outer mounts, lower control arm inner mounts, rear shock mounts)
---Thinned wiring harness (removed ~30 lbs of wire)
---Some new trim: windshield cowl and door handle trims were all cracked and brittle
---M3 front bumper with alumacore splitter and new ducting for radiator and brake ducts; blocking off all other openings to reduce drag
---Underdrive pullies for PS, alternator, and water pump
---Picked up some 2nd-hand SS knockoff "Chibay" headers and catless exhaust
---Will need some tuning ...
---MoTec dash, cluster delete

Needless to say, when I'm on the road 3-4 days a week, progress is slow and the car won't be done for the first event I wanted to make in May. But once I got the thing fully apart, I had a strong urge to put it back together properly. Also, as there's no real BMW Club Racing presence near Chicago, I wanted to refocus the car for NASA GTS2, so that required a little bit fancier hardware. At this point, I'll end up painting the car too, because all the components look good so the body can't look like shit (it's currently several colors).

-tammer