So I'm trying to finish up the electrical portion of my manual swap on my e24. Its an 88 so it had the electronic transmission which I understand has more wiring than others. (great..)
I'm pretty sure that I have the starter figured out, just splice the c200 to c101 at the start relay
What I'm not really understanding the wiring for the reverse switch. Heres the diagram.
What do I do for that? I dont have the reverse switch wires yet but I do have the actual switch on the trans.
Also would it be okay if I remove all of the auto stuff? Like the entire harness.
I've read that a couple times but I dont really like how he just jumped it and left the rest of the dead harness there. Id really like to remove the auto harness if possible.
The write-up link above is good for a visual adventure, but leaves out a few things, specifically what you're asking. The difference between the auto and 5 speed is the auto gets the reverse lamp signal from the shifter in the cabin, the 5 speed, from a switch on the trans. All you have to do is to get two wires a few feet long with spade (F) connectors, connect them to the trans switch. Then, intercept the GN/WT and BU/WT from the C1 connector at the shifter. Connect either wire to either of the wires from the trans, doesn't matter. You can cut the C1 plug off and discard it. Done.
BuzzBomb wrote:The write-up link above is good for a visual adventure, but leaves out a few things, specifically what you're asking. The difference between the auto and 5 speed is the auto gets the reverse lamp signal from the shifter in the cabin, the 5 speed, from a switch on the trans. All you have to do is to get two wires a few feet long with spade (F) connectors, connect them to the trans switch. Then, intercept the GN/WT and BU/WT from the C1 connector at the shifter. Connect either wire to either of the wires from the trans, doesn't matter. You can cut the C1 plug off and discard it. Done.
sweet, its all starting to come together in my head. the reverse wires/c1 connector arent part of the trans harness?
JFarhanbod wrote:
sweet, its all starting to come together in my head. the reverse wires/c1 connector arent part of the trans harness?
Yes C1 is. Just cut those two wires at the plug, and unwrap the trans harness so you can leave those in place while you remove the rest of the auto box wiring. You also need to run a few other wires that are needed for the manual swap like WOT and ground from the TPS to the ECU (Up to now it went to the auto brain, but that's gone now, right?)
Also the CC trigger at the clutch pedal, bypass the neutral safety switch, etc. Sorry if you already know this, added it just in case...
BuzzBomb wrote:
Yes C1 is. Just cut those two wires at the plug, and unwrap the trans harness so you can leave those in place while you remove the rest of the auto box wiring. You also need to run a few other wires that are needed for the manual swap like WOT and ground from the TPS to the ECU (Up to now it went to the auto brain, but that's gone now, right?)
Also the CC trigger at the clutch pedal, bypass the neutral safety switch, etc. Sorry if you already know this, added it just in case...
Cool, I'm getting rid of CC too so thats one less headache. Let me know if I have the right idea here. Bypass the starter relay and jump the 2 pins together, get rid of/cut out all of the auto harness minus the 2 reverse wires. And then wire the TPS. I also read that factory b35 cars have 6 wires up front and you dont need to run any additional wires (for the tps). Is this true?
BuzzBomb wrote:
Yes C1 is. Just cut those two wires at the plug, and unwrap the trans harness so you can leave those in place while you remove the rest of the auto box wiring. You also need to run a few other wires that are needed for the manual swap like WOT and ground from the TPS to the ECU (Up to now it went to the auto brain, but that's gone now, right?)
Also the CC trigger at the clutch pedal, bypass the neutral safety switch, etc. Sorry if you already know this, added it just in case...
Cool, I'm getting rid of CC too so thats one less headache. Let me know if I have the right idea here. Bypass the starter relay and jump the 2 pins together, get rid of/cut out all of the auto harness minus the 2 reverse wires. And then wire the TPS. I also read that factory b35 cars have 6 wires up front and you dont need to run any additional wires (for the tps). Is this true?
Sounds good.
B35 cars use a 6 wire TPS in auto box cars, and the same manual TPS as an e28 in 5 speed cars. B35 cars use the ECU to control WOT, so you don't have to do anything TPS-wise if you go with b35 electrics. You can use either auto or manual b35 harness along with it's TPS in a manual e28 without changing anything.
Damn, son, I didn't realize it was b35 already. In that case, you don't need to change anything with the TPS unless you want it to look like a factory 5 speed, in which case you'd need to change the TPS and the pigtail. Otherwise just leave it be. You don't really need to remove any of that other wiring if you don't want to. These cars come with unused wiring all over the place, so what's a little more?
BuzzBomb wrote:Damn, son, I didn't realize it was b35 already. In that case, you don't need to change anything with the TPS unless you want it to look like a factory 5 speed, in which case you'd need to change the TPS and the pigtail. Otherwise just leave it be. You don't really need to remove any of that other wiring if you don't want to. These cars come with unused wiring all over the place, so what's a little more?
I might just leave everything there, while there today I realized how much of a mess it is. What about the kickdown switch? Does that still work and can you still do stomp tests?
BuzzBomb wrote:Damn, son, I didn't realize it was b35 already. In that case, you don't need to change anything with the TPS unless you want it to look like a factory 5 speed, in which case you'd need to change the TPS and the pigtail. Otherwise just leave it be. You don't really need to remove any of that other wiring if you don't want to. These cars come with unused wiring all over the place, so what's a little more?
I might just leave everything there, while there today I realized how much of a mess it is. What about the kickdown switch? Does that still work and can you still do stomp tests?
I reserve the right to not answer that question, on the grounds that I might say something that could be construed as counterproductive and harsh.
