Just got my first E28,1986 528E 5-Spd, Bronzit, aka Goldie

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528Ebronzit
Posts: 6
Joined: Dec 01, 2013
Location: Los Angeles

Just got my first E28,1986 528E 5-Spd, Bronzit, aka Goldie

Post by 528Ebronzit »

Just discovered your great site after buying my first E28: It's an 86 528E with 5-speed that I found locally here in LA and paid so reasonable a price that I couldn't leave her there. The seller told me it was in his family since new and it went from uncle to father to son. The working odometer says 138K and while the car needs this and that, the general condition certainly seems consistent with this. Trip odometer works as well...I've put about 380 miles on Goldie so far.

Mostly, the car was quite dirty, so my initial tasks involved cleaning the leather (cognac color?), door panels, dash and console. Not sure it I can tackle the carpets, which aren't terrible, except the driver's side which is quite revolting. How are dirty carpets properly cleaned by an at-home enthusiast? Under the grime the leather is actually in quite good, soft condition, however the recline function on both front power seats is inop and both are propped up by pieces of particleboard, which has chafed through the leather on the back panel of the passenger seat! The power seats work, but I'm considering converting to manual seats, as I've located a good pair that I can nail for $50. This would both save weight and future issues with the motors, switchgear, etc. Thoughts? The interior cleans up reasonably and vinyl is getting the full Vinylex treatment I learned about from the wonderful MAYTAG string! Superb product, now has a place in my bag of tricks.

At 7am on a rainy Saturday morning, armed with a 40oz bottle of Industrial Strength Simple Green, I made a low-pro run to the local self-service car wash in Hollywood. It was raining hard so not a soul in sight to bark at me and I was happy I'd installed fresh Bosch wiper blades the day before. After two $3 sessions, it was looking good in there. When I got the car I thought the valve cover was flat black from the factory, such was the nature of the grime that had accrued over the decades. It's fun to see how much you get done when you're doing it 'guerrilla style' lol. Next I'll use some spray wax (I've used Pledge on my moto to great effect) on the painted surfaces in the engine bay, which should help keep those surfaces clean. It may be purely psychological, but a clean car does seem to run better.

Aside from that, I replaced the driver's side low beam and while I was at it, adjusted the headlights (missing a retaining spring on passenger side low beam) pulled all the grilles, cleaned and polished everything reachable with my WD40 and toothbrushes. In general I try to clean and detail everything I work on. Next will be oil & filter, fuel filer, spark plugs, air filter change. Following that will be timing belt, tensioner and water pump to get off on the right foot.

With the exception of a good sized dent on the driver's front fender, the body is straight on her and I think all the paint is original. I pulled the front wheel, using with factory jack (protected with rags, as it's never been used before) and got a lot of the dent out, using some the aforementioned seat-back supporting particleboard , stacked and wedged, in concert with my sledgehammer. I hate the idea of painting this car; maybe I'll get lucky and find another bronzit front fender. The clear coat is burnt on all the tops, but she still presents well and I love a little patina. There was a new roundel in the trunk that I promptly fitted to the decklid, while saving the old one. The radio works, but as Rainman would say: "very crackly...very very crackly".

Front brake pads have plenty of meat left and wheel bearings seems sound. She runs and drives well overall, but the Michelins (always a good sign) are cracked with maybe 5% tread left and they feel hard as well. I have a friend with a set of 16" E38 wheels with fresh Hankooks he set up for his E9 3.0CS, but decided on another wheel. This would seem to be a good upgrade, has anyone does this? Are shims required as on the E9 application? Steering and front end also feel good and she tracks dead straight on the freeway. She does have the infamous 'shudder of doom' under hard decelleration, which I've learned here is either / both upper control arm bushings or front brake rotors. Would H&R / Eibach springs and fresh Bilsteins transform this car? I don't want her to be too harsh as she's my DD.

She's going up on a lift at my local BMW wrench in the Valley next week, we'll see what's what. I'm truly amazed at how well these cars drive and the fuel economy is astounding. Tool kit is complete, which I cleaned, polished and oiled. Spare tire is present and unused, along with jack, lug wrench and 2 bottles of BMW fuel injection cleaner, circa 1986. I pulled the trunk carpets, cleaned and oiled everything. On that note, what's the ideal lube for trunk, door and hood latches...white lithium?

Any help, suggestions, etc, most welcomed and appreciated. After an E9, a few 2002s, a Bavaria, a 645Cic and a host of others, this car, warts and all, makes me smile like no other.

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Last edited by 528Ebronzit on Dec 01, 2013 11:25 PM, edited 4 times in total.
StolenFox
Posts: 345
Joined: Apr 13, 2011
Location: Aurora, CO

Post by StolenFox »

Congrats on the new ride, sounds like you are off to a good start. In regards to wheels: I run the 16" E38 setup on my car with no spacers. The tire is what makes or breaks you as the sidewall bulge and tread width are the deciding factors. I run BFG's and have read about others that fit as well. You will need to test the set you've mentioned on your car and check front strut clearance vs the tire sidewall. I also "clearanced" the rear tire well for more breathing room (like the M5's). A search will bring up good threads with pics and measurement details.

Welcome aboard.
S.F.
lilpoindexter
Posts: 613
Joined: Dec 24, 2011
Location: Los Angeles, California

Post by lilpoindexter »

:pics!:
1st 5er
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Joined: Jun 13, 2008
Location: Cypress
Contact:

Post by 1st 5er »

Nice...
MIK911
Posts: 185
Joined: Jul 29, 2013
Location: SoCal

Post by MIK911 »

Welcome!
Your e28 journey sounds very similar to mine--I got mine in Aug (one owner, 175k miles, orig paint, etc).
Did all the clean up like you're planning.
re: carpet cleaner. I used "Resolve" carpet cleaner in spray bottle avail at any store.

btw, in my search for suspension parts, I found out that Eibach springs are NLA (unless you find a used set here). I went with H&R with Bilstein sport shocks. Love the ride, not too rough for this urban jungle.

Keep us updated, and post pics soon.
a
Posts: 12473
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Marshfield ,MA

Post by a »

combine the tune up with the timing belt change. Get it done sooner rather than later. A broken belt is expensive to fix. Welcome. the 528e is a great car. just not the fastest :laugh:
John in VA
Posts: 5366
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Leesburg, VA

Post by John in VA »

Our Bronzit 535i is AKA Goldie. Enjoy!
528Ebronzit
Posts: 6
Joined: Dec 01, 2013
Location: Los Angeles

Post by 528Ebronzit »

I did my best to get some of the dent out. I know it's a long way from artisan craftsmanship, but the paint was broken and the metal was creased in several places, so I felt I couldn't do any real harm. In the process I managed to straighten out the panel gap between the fender and hood line, without banging on it directly. Maybe a good body man can fine tune it from here. I don't need perfect, just presentable.

Engine bay cleaned up nice, will be a pleasure to work in there. Ordering the timing belt / water pump bits this week, top priority.

I've got to figure out the seats this week. While I like the idea of my girlfriend in a permanently reclined position, she doesn't)). The particleboard seat supports, while sexy in a tree-house kinda way, gotta go. I rubbed in a good bit of leather conditioner after a good cleaning, to great effect. They used good materials in these cars and I loves me a lil' patina.
I found a pair of manual seats I can grab for $50...should I just simplify and switch over my leather to the manual frames, or stay fancy and fix what I got? Are these power seats ultimately reliable or a constant sources of trouble?

I found some E38 wheels with tires, hoping the size is usable as is without chafing. Thanks to StolenFox, who runs the E38 setup and says the wheels work great without spacers as long as the tire size is right. I think there's a decent Hankook that should work. The bottlecaps on the car are in quite good, curb-rash free shape, if anyone needs a set of 5.

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Last edited by 528Ebronzit on Dec 02, 2013 10:12 AM, edited 1 time in total.
StolenFox
Posts: 345
Joined: Apr 13, 2011
Location: Aurora, CO

Post by StolenFox »

The Falkens wont work, too tall.

If the rims are cheap, go for it but plan on getting new tires.

S.F.
528Ebronzit
Posts: 6
Joined: Dec 01, 2013
Location: Los Angeles

Goldie's good side

Post by 528Ebronzit »

Took these yesterday afternoon. First pic shows typical SoCal sun scorch. Rear door shows evidence of a bent window regulator pushing against the inside of the door. That's the only window that doesn't work.

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a
Posts: 12473
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Marshfield ,MA

Post by a »

Unless the frame of the seat back is broken, This is just a put back together issue. The power comforts are pretty robust unless they get messed up. If you remove the trim on the bottom of the seat, there is a gearbox. If the cover is loose,tighten the screws. If it is off, look for the screws and a gear.. Also if nothing on the seats work, and the lighter and , I think, the sunroof, then fuse 4 is bad. Its a 25 Amp fuse. Anything else, remove the seat and take a look. Oh, it might be as simple as an unplugged connection under the seat..

Tell you what, if in the course of time ,you want to sell it for what you paid, look me up.

Also if it has a 2.93 diff , you may want to look for a 3.46 for a bit more zip.
528Ebronzit
Posts: 6
Joined: Dec 01, 2013
Location: Los Angeles

Seats

Post by 528Ebronzit »

Thanks for the good tips A. The seat motors all seem to work. I'll remove the passenger seat tomorrow and see what's up. While it's out I'll have the opportunity to deep clean the carpeting, console, etc.

I might also drop the seat off with my upholstery guy to clean up the scarred back panel from the particle board support damage.
Then repeat for driver's side, which will also require some new leather on the armrest and some beefing up of the padding, both are tasks that he's great at. Maybe swap the drivers and passenger seat bottoms? We did this on an old Land Rover I had, it came out great. I don't think any re-coloring or re-dying is required. I like the patina the seats have.
bobby in Derby City
Posts: 980
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Hidin' in a bowl of rice ready to put a cap in an a$$

Post by bobby in Derby City »

John in VA wrote:Our Bronzit 535i is AKA Goldie. Enjoy!
LOL ... I called #5 "Goldie Locks" .... cheers!!
528Ebronzit
Posts: 6
Joined: Dec 01, 2013
Location: Los Angeles

New timing belt and tires

Post by 528Ebronzit »

New timing belt and tensioner is in. Belt was not terrible, but far from new and the tensioner was well worn, possibly the original piece. Also changed oil and filter. Decided against changing the wheels...the stock setup is growing on me and I'll never get more value for money. The fates smiled on me: I scored a good used, matching set of Hankooks with about 70% tread left...mounted and balanced, $150 out the door. I'm happy I'm staying on budget. She just rolled over to 139K miles. Now I can drive her with a bit of confidence. Just started wet sanding the decklid, looking good under the grit, even with a few sunburnt clearcoat spots. Next week I hope to get the diff oil changed and maybe a coolant flush. 70 mph at just over 2k rpm...love this car. Has the dead-solid torque of a Detroit Diesel 6-71 powered trawler.
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