How to: e28 Suspension Install

[e24mpwr]

I just completed the job, and I got one from Bilstein for a whopping $5 shipped. I called them and they (semi-reluctantly) sent one to me.

It was too big for the old Bilstein shocks I was removing - not sure the tool is designed for that much torque anyway. I got my biggest adjustable wrench, clamped it on my workbench and wrestled the thing out. Honestly, not sure how I would have done it without the clamp. It was a PITA as it was.

Getting it back in wasn't all that much helped by the tool. Probably I don't get the technique, but I was trying to use my 1/2" torque wrench with it. It worked, but honestly, I'd put a little anti-seize on it, make sure it is really gutentight with the adjustable wrench and be done.

I'm not a mech, so I'm sure there are more qualified opinions.

[Chimi-Changa]

^^ Thanks!

Found the Bilstein gland nut tool at Turner motorsports if anyone is looking for one. MS 08/6 is the size, and was about 5 bucks plus shipping.

[LarryM]

I just did the front struts on my 535is (which came stock w/ Bilsteins), and found that tool rather useless in removing or torquing the gland nuts. The inside diameter is too larger and allows a lot of slop, plus the two "tangs" on the tool don't engage very far into the slots on the gland nut. The result is that the tool keeps slipping off the nut.

I even called Bilstein to confirm that I had the right size tool. I can't understand why it was designed this way.

I ended up doing what a lot of others have reportedly done: I used a large pipe wrench to break the nut loose and used it again when tightening down (very tight!) the new one.

[Ladeef]

I didn't have the same luck with my rear shocks and front collar nut. I ended up having to use a cut off wheel on the rear shock, then cutting off the rear bushing. Then vice griped the bolt bushing and hammered it to rotate it loose, geeze. Also the front collar nuts were rusted on, cut off wheel to the rescue! I cut a 90 degree angle into the old collar nut and hammered it around and loose. What's this someone said about tightening a bolt with the wheels on the ground? I don't think I understand that part.

[TimS]

Why do I remember putting oil in the front strut housing before putting the new shock in? It was a measured amount. I was told that it helps dissipate heat out of the shocks.
Or was that an E36?

[ElGuappo]

Tim,
That was the procedure for twin tube oil filled shocks. Bilstein gas filled shocks don't need the oil, I've never added any and I've changed a lot of shocks.

FWIW I've never used the Bilstein tool, just a Big Ass adjustable channel lock style wrench. 90% of the time it works every time.

[1st 5er]

BFH and chisel here occasionally,
just to get it started.

[N_///M_Z]

I suggest using the tool recommended by Bilstein. When you can torque the shocks to manufacturers specification it gives some piece of mind. I used the punch and hammer method first but found the shocks were noisy. After using the tool and tightening to spec there was no noise. Learn from my experience.
Note: used on the front and rear for an e32 735i.

[nismo2020]

Is it okay to use the pipe wrench to tighten the gland nut when it is reassembled on the car?

The problem that I am having is that the new gland nut will not seat the entire way.

There is still like a half of thread that I cannot physically (leverage) get back into the housing.

[nismo2020]

All of a sudden I can't post pics but here is a link.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/125304727 ... ed-public/

[tig]

What do you call a socket like this one (19mm inner, 22mm outer)? And where can I find one? Looks like a spark plug socket.

Or, is there some other way to keep the shaft from turning while tightening the lock nut?

[LarryM]

What do you call a socket like this one (19mm inner, 22mm outer)? And where can I find one? Looks like a spark plug socket.

Or, is there some other way to keep the shaft from turning while tightening the lock nut?

When I did my suspension, I wasn't able to find a socket like the one pictured so I bought a Harbor Freight 19mm, 1/2" drive deep well socket and had one end machined for a 19mm square drive. That way I was able to insert the allen wrench through the socket and into the shaft while holding the square end with a 19mm wrench.

[tig]

When I did my suspension, I wasn't able to find a socket like the one pictured so I bought a Harbor Freight 19mm, 1/2" drive deep well socket and had one end machined for a 19mm square drive. That way I was able to insert the allen wrench through the socket and into the shaft while holding the square end with a 19mm wrench.

I considered doing that.

I found this "21 Pc SAE & Metric Go-Thru Socket Set" $19.99 at Harbor Freight, which was open today.



Worked dandy. Total crap-quality tool, but got the job done.

[Mike W.]

When I did my suspension, I wasn't able to find a socket like the one pictured so I bought a Harbor Freight 19mm, 1/2" drive deep well socket and had one end machined for a 19mm square drive. That way I was able to insert the allen wrench through the socket and into the shaft while holding the square end with a 19mm wrench.

I considered doing that.

I found this "21 Pc SAE & Metric Go-Thru Socket Set" $19.99 at Harbor Freight, which was open today.

Worked dandy. Total crap-quality tool, but got the job done.

I saw a set like that some years back at Post Tool, a store something like HF, but not nearly as successfully done. But doesn't anyone else do it like I do, an impact done to light to medium torque? Not exactly precision, but I bet 90%+ of the shops do it that way.

Only time I had knocking was when I was using the wrong parts, Bav's used 3 or 4 different front shocks in the E3 run. I had a set that was oh soooooo close, but just that much too short for my car. Tightening them more didn't work, but a piece of 1/8" welding rod bent in a circle under the gland nut worked perfect.

[danix]

Doing this now.
If, like the original poster, you didn’t or couldn’t unscrew the large strut to strut housing part (I tried), do this.
Reattach the strut to the wheel, flip it on the floor and have someone stand on the wheel.
With a very large pliers from HF, and some heat, I was able to get them off.

Also, some more detail on the removal of the strut assembly is called for.
It’s straightforward but you need to remove the front sway bar link, the lower ball joint (will edit this later) and the three 17mm bolts at the bottom of the assembly. Then the top mount to body screws.

[Ordnator]

Loosen the big nut with the car on the ground and the weight on the suspension.

Torque it back up with the car on the ground and the weight on the suspension.

Don't ask me how I know this

Regards,

Mick

[danix]

Loosen the big nut with the car on the ground and the weight on the suspension.

Torque it back up with the car on the ground and the weight on the suspension.

Don't ask me how I know this

Regards,

Mick

Which big nut? The gland nut holding the strut insert to the housing? Or the ball joint?

I'm still working on this. The Sachs upper strut mounts/bearings that I bought don't look right, in particular they are missing the spring seat compared to my old.
I thought perhaps the old ones would come apart but no luck so far.
RealOEM shows 31331129497, almost $300 each (!). The Sachs parts I have are marked 803151009 - like this: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension- ... 8-E24.html

Also discovered the front bump stops are not needed with Bilstein, they don't even fit the thicker shaft.
Hoping to get this wrapped up this weekend - any insight on the upper mount would be appreciated.
Perhaps I just need to add something like this: https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-mini-spring ... 1336759452?

[Ordnator]

The big nut at the top of the shock piston holding it onto the top mount.

Regards,

Mick

[JohnH]

Use a box spanner https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stahlwille-1 ... :rk:8:pf:0 , a ring spanner and a 3/8" drive ratchet with extension and allan bit.

Or just use standard strut nut sockets and an allan key https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-LASER-ST ... rk:20:pf:0

[danix]

I found this: https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-shock-insta ... tdshockkit
So, it appears I need to convert to the new style mounts. I already have the mounts, the rubber gaskets look the same to me, so I assume I just need the plates and the extra washers?
Any insight on how this goes together in the conversion, or what year I can look at on realoem?

[Federico]

Are your spring plates still attached to the old shocks?

[danix]

Are your spring plates still attached to the old shocks?

My plate seems to be integral with the strut bearing. I've tried separating it, but no joy so far.
Compare new to old:

[Federico]

Ok, i see now.
So, you need to go from this:



To this:



For the second schematic: parts 14+15 are not used; 10+11 are not used with bilsteins.

In that case, you'll need 3, 6, 7, 8 & 9. Also 5 if you care about looks

[danix]

Yes. What year is that second diagram from?

[Federico]

That corresponds to my 82 528i, but it should be the same for most E28's but the diesels.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=31_0081

[danix]

Thank you. I got all the parts needed, have it assembled and in. The more I touch, the more I find that needs repairing
Found a torn outer tie rod boot so replaced the tierod, then noticed the passenger side idler arm is loose so have to replace that now.

[danix]

Car is assembled. I’m a little puzzled why the from sits high, hoping it will settle and will also recheck torque.