What did you do to your other car(s) today?

[e28Sean]

Spent the better part of the morning doing a stealth install of a dash cam in the AMG.


 

 

[Mike W.]

The Xterra. Arggg. It's been on the DL for a while needing a tranny computer, TCM in Nissan speak. Found a place that rebuilds them, took out the valve body, which it's attached to, spilling much less ATF than the last time I did it, still not a fun job even though I kind of have it down. Kept finding little things that were raising red flags, not the least of which is the fluid is dark in spite of 3 or 4 miles on it since the last change. Had the computer out and packaged up but the more I saw the less easy I felt. I fear it needs a full tranny job, not just the TCM. But I'm not doing in, and to get a used tranny and pay someone would be 3-3.5K. And I'm not going to fix it and sell it if I fear a catastrophic failure in the near future, I just can't do that. I'm just not going to sink that much into it, gonna cut my losses rather than keep chasing. It'll be on Craigslist by the weekend, cheap.

And it ran so good when it ran. Oh well.

[tig]

Replaced the voltage regulator in Uglina with a reman'd OE unit. Battery charging woes be-gone. 

 

Lesson: don't use cheap, Chinesium, regulators!

[gadget73]

replaced the frame to rear axle brake hose that I failed at some years ago. The part I had bought then was not correct and the lines wouldn't thread in.  Found a NOS hose, it actually fit properly. 

Car has had this funky vibration for a while and I finally got tired of it. Had the tires rotated and re-balanced but that didn't sort it. There is a slight flat spot on one of the tires that came off the front so I thought maybe that was it. Moving it to the back did nothing. The vibration was more of a vertical oscillation than a left-right shake. 

While I was underneath last night I pulled the driveshaft and found the front U joint had a distinct sticky spot moving either direction from center. The joint had a grease fitting so I pumped some grease in which helped. A few love taps with the hammer to re-seat things got it freed up and it feels fine now. No idea if maybe I did the U joint when I had it apart years ago for a pinion seal and the trans governor repair or not. Either way it seems happy now, and a quick test drive last night didn't have the shake. I'll need to get it on the highway to confirm but I'm cautiously optimistic here. 

 

[e24mpwr]

This was a couple weeks ago, but I replaced most of the suspension in the family Volvo (2010 V70) - struts/shocks, control arms, swaybar links and end links.


It's been kind of amusing to get to know another car platform.  I've worked on a variety of BMW's from the mid-'80's forward, Hondas, Toyotas and a Mazda, and they all show a certain approach to the design and parts used.  The Volvo is no different, but it is more 'different' in a lot of ways.  For example - the nut for the ball joint is 22mm and the whole thing is truly beefy - I had to buy a bigger ball joint separator to handle it.  But the axle is fixed by a (maybe) 100mm bolt with a 13mm head, torued to 35nm + 90°.  It does have factory thread locker and I'm sure it's fine, but comical when I look at the huge 46mm (?) socket in my toolbox for BMW axle nuts that are staked in.  

(My favorite detail for this car so far is that there's an interposer that slow-starts the water pump so it isn't thrashed when you start the car, which means they essentially last forever - the guy at the Swedish specialty shop could only ever remember replacing a handful of them over 25 years.  The interposer itself has a service interval of 150K miles...)

[Mike W.]

(My favorite detail for this car so far is that there's an interposer that slow-starts the water pump so it isn't thrashed when you start the car, which means they essentially last forever - the guy at the Swedish specialty shop could only ever remember replacing a handful of them over 25 years.  The interposer itself has a service interval of 150K miles...)

What, is it an electric pump? Variable speed then and probably PWM controlled?

[e24mpwr]

(My favorite detail for this car so far is that there's an interposer that slow-starts the water pump so it isn't thrashed when you start the car, which means they essentially last forever - the guy at the Swedish specialty shop could only ever remember replacing a handful of them over 25 years.  The interposer itself has a service interval of 150K miles...)

What, is it an electric pump? Variable speed then and probably PWM controlled?

My understanding is it's something mechanical like a fan clutch - a mechanical thing that comes online gently after the engine starts and is warming up.

[Roberto]

It's been kind of amusing to get to know another car platform.  

 

I've never seen this car platform device before! Any tips or tricks on using them properly? Seems like it would have saved me a lot of time the other day jacking up my Q5. Seems like flat level ground is of the utmost importance with these? Also can relate to the design differences lately working on my Audi and 4runner.

[John in VA]

I've never seen this car platform device before! 

QuickJack or something similar.  They go on sale at Costco & Home Depot regularly.  Also available online.
https://quickjack.com/

[328dabi]

Finally completed my trunk tool kit. Was missing the emergency window rod. Folks on eBay are asking 100-125 for used ones. After some research figured out that they are still available new from bmw and bought a brand new one for 25. 

[328dabi]

This is the rod I’m talking about. 
 

 

[Mike W.]

Finally completed my trunk tool kit. Was missing the emergency window rod.  

Emergency Window Rod? WTF, I've been playing with these things since '99 and never heard of such a thing. Is it a euro only part? Or have I just missed it?

[328dabi]

Finally completed my trunk tool kit. Was missing the emergency window rod.  

Emergency Window Rod? WTF, I've been playing with these things since '99 and never heard of such a thing. Is it a euro only part? Or have I just missed it?

They are officially called the emergency window crank tool. It supposed to be two pieces. I was missing the rod. All tool kits have them. Allows you to roll the window up in the event you window regulator poops the bed. 

[328dabi]

Here is a photo of both pieces. I’m sure you have seen them. I had no idea what they were for untill I did some research. That and the wheel pin tool (which is the other rod that comes in the tool kit). 





 

[Mike W.]

Here is a photo of both pieces. I’m sure you have seen them. I had no idea what they were for untill I did some research. That and the wheel pin tool (which is the other rod that comes in the tool kit). 

OK, I have seen that, probably have one or two even. The first pic made it look much larger than it is.

[gadget73]

The love tap on the driveshaft fixed about 90% of the highway speed vibration issue. At some point I'll pull the driveshaft and see if it tightened up again.  If it did I'll swap the joint, if not my friend knows a place that balances driveshafts so they can figure out what it's problem is so this goes away completely.  

Something is whacky with one of the front bearings though.  It has some slop in the wheel that sure seems to be bearing but tightening it up further makes it rotate stiffly without eliminating the play.  Need to investigate that further. Its not making any noise like a bad bearing, but it has a random shake when braking that feels somewhat like a warped rotor, except that it only does it sometimes. I got it to be less noticeable by tweaking it just a little more snug so I think its the wheel slop causing the shake, not actually a brake problem. 

Found the updated power antenna to replace the stock design.  Mine was working, but when I opened the trunk to put my spare part in I heard the antenna running steady so the switch had failed somehow. Swapped that in, problem gone. Paid $20 for it, I found the same antenna listed for $140 on ebay.  I'll call that a win. As a bonus the new one is silent, the old design with its multi-piece geartrain sounded like a power drill running in the trunk. 

[gadget73]

new wheel bearings fixed that problem.  Looks like they were moving slightly on the spindle. No damage to the spindle though so it was just a case of swap the races, pack the bearings, put it together. 

[gadget73]

New door lock actuator in the Mark VII.  I had bought a box of 4, thought they were Mark VII but they must be for something else. 80s Ford lock actuators are all the same motor, just with different rods.  No big deal, I swapped the rod from the seized old one to the new. Every time I have to pull a door panel I'm reminded why I hate pulling door panels. Lots of sharp edges, pretty sure i've never been inside a door and not ended up bleeding. 

anyway the door locks again, whee. 

I also repainted the Holley Systemax lower intake that I might get around to swapping on just to freshen it up. Duplicolor Cast Coat Aluminum. The prior application of paint had failed in some spots leaving the aluminum bare long enough to get chalky.  I had this intake on my previous Mark VII and it made a nice improvement on the bottom end torque without upsetting the ECM any.  Mostly it just evens out the airflow so the lower intake isn't the restriction on 3 of the 8 cylinders.  Have to see if I've got the intake gaskets on hand to do the job or not. 

[Mike W.]

Every time I have to pull a door panel I'm reminded why I hate pulling door panels.

I don't donate blood on them, but I swear I break at least 2 of the retaining clips on them each time I pull it. Even after trying to align them to the holes. Which after about 3 R and R's leaves me with about 3 holding the thing on.

Now onto my stuff. The Datsun, AKA Infinite QX4, AKA Nissan Pathfinder. Actually about a month ago, just before vacation. Failing clearcoat isn't a good look anytime, but a dark, Midnight Blue accentuates it. I've putzed with it before, most recently last year before vacation and got it presentable, sort of. But I used crappy clearcoat last year and it was already failing. Mind you this is "supposed" automotive grade, canalized clearcoat so it should hold up more than a year, but it didn't. My bad, I knew it was bad, just didn't know it was this bad. But some time with a mouse sander and some Duplicolor color and clear from the local chain parts store, and a mile of masking tape with many yards of masking paper, it actually came out looking pretty good.




As long as you're not 6-3 and looking at the roof. It made a 100 footer a 30 footer, a big improvement. Not gonna last, but at least it wasn't as embarrassing as it could have been at motel rooms before the patina of 4WD dirt roads took effect.

Also an oil change and general checking of fluids etc. Ran great, check engine light only came on twice, none in the last 3400 miles and it only used 6 quarts of oil. No smoke though since I changed the valve covers. It ran well, but I think it needs to be replaced before next vacation. Needs paint, well, sometimes you have to suck it up. Needs an engine, well, sometimes you have to do major work. But both on a vehicle that might be worth 3.5K after 6K of work? No, I don't think so. It's a shame, it's been a pleasant truck, good seat for my cranky back, very competent 4WD, never left us stranded, but a bit thirsty at ~17 in soft mixed and ~18.5 on vacation.

[e28Sean]

Swapped the tag lights and parkies on the Mercedes out for LEDs.  Makes the car look so much younger, in my opinion.

[Shundumping[]]

Today I worked on the E90—gave it a proper wash, cleaned the interior a bit, and finally checked the turbo plumbing for leaks. Also swapped a few worn bits and made sure the fluids were topped up. Nothing glamorous, but now it’s ready to hit the street without making me nervous every time I stomp the throttle. Also gave the garage a sweep and vacuum so I wasn’t crawling over salt and grime—makes working on the Tahoe or Miata way less frustrating.

[gadget73]

none in the last 3400 miles and it only used 6 quarts of oil.  

6 quarts of oil in 3400 miles?  Yikes. I don't like to add oil at all between changes. 

[Mike W.]

none in the last 3400 miles and it only used 6 quarts of oil.  

6 quarts of oil in 3400 miles?  Yikes. I don't like to add oil at all between changes. 

No, 6 quarts in 4800 miles. Still pretty awful. The 3400 was since the last time the check engine light came on. 180K on it so it's not real high mileage by todays standards, but it is what it is. I need to replace it, I think this was it's last major trip.

[gadget73]

yeah thats still terrible. Sounds like 80s "acceptable oil use" standards, quart every 800 miles. Is this an engine known for that sort of thing? 

[Mike W.]

yeah thats still terrible. Sounds like 80s "acceptable oil use" standards, quart every 800 miles. Is this an engine known for that sort of thing? 

I've gotten the feeling it's not the norm but not unusual either. It's the Nissan VQ engine series which is well respected and long running, but this one's sure an oil pig. Not surprisingly it seems worse when I'm hammering down the freeway with an 80MPH speed limit. MPG definitely drops between a 75 speed limit and an 80 one.

[tig]

Plastidip'd the wheels to make them look "less like ass" as Galahad put it.
  


 

 

[e28Sean]

I gotta say.... If I had one of these, this is exactly what it would look like.

Nice.

[Mike W.]

Plastidip'd the wheels to make them look "less like ass" as Galahad put it.
  

 

Had to look in eye candy to see if it was one of those Kei trucks. Looks like it is. But my gawd man, you've got a couple of employment/business ventures I'm aware of, doing much of the heavy lifting on Mye28, seems like you're pulling Datsun engines and more on a daily basis, putzing with E28s, and a vintage Land Cruiser, helping with D4C, got time to romance and get married. Jeez, when do you sleep? Do you sleep?

Nice pickup though, even if it won't ever be California legal.

[tig]

Sleep is overrated. 

[gadget73]

Very major work on the Mark VII again.  I replaced the burned-out bulb behind the headlight switch. Took all of 10 minutes. 

Attempted to pop test the injectors on the diesel but the pressure gauge doesn't work. Have to make a video for the help ticket because "the pressure gauge doesn't move from 0" is apparently not clear enough and of course my new phone isn't supposed to show up until today.