its a MAF setup not speed density. still utilizes the stock motronictaiden wrote:Is your engine management utilizing speed density for air metering? If so, you can just run the icv open with a small cone filter.
anyone attempted an ICV delete?
No ICV on the Alpina setup. Uses the L-Jet aux air valve. Two hoses are BMW, one is Alpina. The latter is essentially a heater hose with the plastic tee, etc.mooseheadm5 wrote:You know, if you had just posted that picture, we would have been able to give you good advice from the get go. There are plenty of ways around that problem. I'm at work right now, but I can find a picture of the Alpina setup (or you can) that makes for a much cleaner install than that kludge you have there.
-
mooseheadm5
- Posts: 23035
- Joined: Apr 08, 2009
- Location: Charlottesville, VA
- Contact:
I was speaking of the later "flipped intake" Alpina setup vs what you have (just checking to see if we are on the same page.)wkohler wrote:No ICV on the Alpina setup. Uses the L-Jet aux air valve. Two hoses are BMW, one is Alpina. The latter is essentially a heater hose with the plastic tee, etc.mooseheadm5 wrote:You know, if you had just posted that picture, we would have been able to give you good advice from the get go. There are plenty of ways around that problem. I'm at work right now, but I can find a picture of the Alpina setup (or you can) that makes for a much cleaner install than that kludge you have there.
I saw an Alpina "reproduction" manifold where I think they made a pipe for the ICV, but the pics are gone now. Here is one pic that may help:

Actually, Mike's (my former) B9 uses an air valve. I never thought it worked better than an ICV.Rich Euro M5 wrote:Certain early Motronic BMW don't have an ICV, they have an auxillary air valve, unfortunately it also uses the large vacuum lines. Try completely blocking off the lines with some sort of plugs and adjust the throttle plate for a new base idle, then adjust the TPS to close at the new throttle plate opening.
I am running Alpha N closed loop which only uses the motronic for spark and it still requires an ICV.JesterMX6 wrote:its a MAF setup not speed density. still utilizes the stock motronictaiden wrote:Is your engine management utilizing speed density for air metering? If so, you can just run the icv open with a small cone filter.
It doesn't. The AAV uses a bi-metallic strip that expands and contracts. When the car warms up, the strip expands, impeding airflow. Over time, the expansion and contraction takes it's toll. They usually fail expanded.m-racer wrote:Actually, Mike's (my former) B9 uses an air valve. I never thought it worked better than an ICV.Rich Euro M5 wrote:Certain early Motronic BMW don't have an ICV, they have an auxillary air valve, unfortunately it also uses the large vacuum lines. Try completely blocking off the lines with some sort of plugs and adjust the throttle plate for a new base idle, then adjust the TPS to close at the new throttle plate opening.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... p?t=744086
Maybe helpful, maybe not.
Anyway, there is a partial way around it on the Multiple Butterfly Throttle Setup from the M cars. While yes, in original setup they use either the AAV or the ICV, there are some positive benefits.
If one were to try the ITB (Individual Throttle Body) setup without AAV or ICV, you have benefits. First one is the fact that there are balance needles. These are used in the original setup to help ensure all cylinders are balanced to create a smooth idle. Now anyone (me) who has ordered new bypass screws from BMW will find there are 2 styles and if you put the new ones into the old throttles and don't realize it, cause they fit and look almost the same, will tell you that is causes the idle to stay at around 1100 RPM regardless of how open or closed you set everything. This is how you can keep the throttle plates closed but still get enough air past them to keep an idle.
But it can get even easier than that. The ITBs have an idle speed screw that regulates the amount of bi-passed air from the AAV or ICV. This could also be used to set your idle speed with the throttle plates closed.
Now if you wanted to do this and want it to function acceptably, this is what I would do...
I would use the ITBs, and use the balance andjustment needles to actually set your constant warm idle bypass, therefore giving you a warm non-ICV idle. Then I would use the idle speed adjustment screw and port and hook it up to an electrically operated valve. This valve I would hook up to a Thermo Time Switch, like the one that operates the Cold Start Injector. When the switch is energized, it is open, therefore giving you a cold start situation. As soon as the coolant temp gets to the point where the cold start injector turns off then the valve would be de-energized and close. Therefore putting the car on warm idle.
Now the honest truth is, this will give you probably something deemed acceptable, but would not fly for the average owner, so all in all BMW's original solution with the ICV is not a bad one.
Wow, not bad for midnight. Maybe we BMW engineers are not so stupid
Maybe helpful, maybe not.
Anyway, there is a partial way around it on the Multiple Butterfly Throttle Setup from the M cars. While yes, in original setup they use either the AAV or the ICV, there are some positive benefits.
If one were to try the ITB (Individual Throttle Body) setup without AAV or ICV, you have benefits. First one is the fact that there are balance needles. These are used in the original setup to help ensure all cylinders are balanced to create a smooth idle. Now anyone (me) who has ordered new bypass screws from BMW will find there are 2 styles and if you put the new ones into the old throttles and don't realize it, cause they fit and look almost the same, will tell you that is causes the idle to stay at around 1100 RPM regardless of how open or closed you set everything. This is how you can keep the throttle plates closed but still get enough air past them to keep an idle.
But it can get even easier than that. The ITBs have an idle speed screw that regulates the amount of bi-passed air from the AAV or ICV. This could also be used to set your idle speed with the throttle plates closed.
Now if you wanted to do this and want it to function acceptably, this is what I would do...
I would use the ITBs, and use the balance andjustment needles to actually set your constant warm idle bypass, therefore giving you a warm non-ICV idle. Then I would use the idle speed adjustment screw and port and hook it up to an electrically operated valve. This valve I would hook up to a Thermo Time Switch, like the one that operates the Cold Start Injector. When the switch is energized, it is open, therefore giving you a cold start situation. As soon as the coolant temp gets to the point where the cold start injector turns off then the valve would be de-energized and close. Therefore putting the car on warm idle.
Now the honest truth is, this will give you probably something deemed acceptable, but would not fly for the average owner, so all in all BMW's original solution with the ICV is not a bad one.
Wow, not bad for midnight. Maybe we BMW engineers are not so stupid
I fail to see how a hose that's designed and specifically formed with the stock ICV location in mind solves anything in your particular case. Did I miss something?JesterMX6 wrote:i did end up ordering the OE hose that goes from that pesky outlet in the manifold up to the ICV so hopefully my vacuum leak that exists there right now due to the hodgepodge of adapters and bends i have right now.
i said in that very post that you quoted that i also have a vacuum leak at that location.
it doesn't solve the issue of the giant hose, but it fixes the vacuum leak which will at least make the car run smoother.
m535is, your idea is pretty sound. something like that would probably work. this is in no way a daily driver. more of a weekend cruiser so its not like it'll see cold running too much.
i've got a few ideas now so i'll be fiddling with different options.
it doesn't solve the issue of the giant hose, but it fixes the vacuum leak which will at least make the car run smoother.
m535is, your idea is pretty sound. something like that would probably work. this is in no way a daily driver. more of a weekend cruiser so its not like it'll see cold running too much.
i've got a few ideas now so i'll be fiddling with different options.
-
mooseheadm5
- Posts: 23035
- Joined: Apr 08, 2009
- Location: Charlottesville, VA
- Contact:
If you are going to rig it anyway, just add a bypass circuit. Drill 2 holes in the throttle on each side of the plate and plumb a needle valve in between.JesterMX6 wrote:i said in that very post that you quoted that i also have a vacuum leak at that location.
it doesn't solve the issue of the giant hose, but it fixes the vacuum leak which will at least make the car run smoother.
m535is, your idea is pretty sound. something like that would probably work. this is in no way a daily driver. more of a weekend cruiser so its not like it'll see cold running too much.
i've got a few ideas now so i'll be fiddling with different options.
Re:
Congratulations, you just invented a diesel fuel injection.slammin_e28 wrote: Mar 12, 2012 8:35 AM Want to delete vacuum lines?
B35 swap.
Or just take your throttle off and drive your car by changing the fuel trim, leaning it out to slow down, rich it up to speed up. Essentially metering fuel instead of air! BRILLIANT!
-
iamcreepingdeath
- Posts: 485
- Joined: Dec 28, 2008
- Location: Wilmington, NC
Re: anyone attempted an ICV delete?
Holy thread resurrection, Batman
Re: anyone attempted an ICV delete?
I have deleted mine on my M30B35.
But I will be adding one back due to a lumpy cam, + megasquirt will be able to raise the rpm after start up for some time, which is helpful.
But I will be adding one back due to a lumpy cam, + megasquirt will be able to raise the rpm after start up for some time, which is helpful.


