So some of you may know that I won one of Todd's awesome M20 top mount manifolds at tedfest. Well, it'd be a shame not to use it. I don't know if this has ever been done before on an otherwise stock eta.
I'm thinking a T4 frame turbo is out, because even though it'll fit, there's no way it'd spool on an eta by the time I hit redline. I'm thinking of taking a TD04H Mitsubishi turbo off of a Volvo. I'll run the stock internal wastegate with no plans for extra boost any time soon. I'll probably put a decent size fmif behind the hilariously small eta airdam. Going to use the stock timing chip and a BEGI on Todd's recommendation. Also WR8LC plugs. The downpipe will be custom, going to the stock cat, with a stainless 2.5inch exhaust sometime down the line.
Anybody got any better ideas for the turbo? How about injectors, are 30#er's overkill? Are those plugs cold enough for ~7psi boost?
Eta with a snail on it
Stock catalytic converter is too small/restrictive. Do the whole exhaust at once and do it right. 2.5 inches is small, 2.75" would be better. 3" would work well but might be overkill. Do you have to deal with emissions? Best bet is generally to make the cat section removable, especially for the time period when you're getting the base tune done. You don't want to cook a new catalytic converter while you work out the kinks. The tune will need to be tweaked once the cat is re-installed, but that's easier.
Do the math on the injectors along with your power goals. 30 lbs is probably a bit big, 24 lbs would be easier to tune with stock motronic if the math works out (and I think it will). Remember that you're using a rising rate FPR, so you can drive the injectors at what the math says is a really high duty cycle safely.
I don't know anything about that turbo. Can you find a compressor map for it?
Ali, you should be saving up for a twin screw for that roadster of yours. That'd be a riot.
Do the math on the injectors along with your power goals. 30 lbs is probably a bit big, 24 lbs would be easier to tune with stock motronic if the math works out (and I think it will). Remember that you're using a rising rate FPR, so you can drive the injectors at what the math says is a really high duty cycle safely.
I don't know anything about that turbo. Can you find a compressor map for it?
Ali, you should be saving up for a twin screw for that roadster of yours. That'd be a riot.
Jeremy, I think you're putting too much thought into this. The goal here is to be cheap and retain stock drivability. I don't want any tuning besides bigger injectors and the BEGI rrfpr. Ohio has no inspection any more, so I could theoretically rin catless. I'm aiming for 200 horsepower, but if I fall short or come up ahead, I won't be dissatisfied. I'll still be DDing this car, so it'll spend 95% of it's time below 2000 rpm.
Might not be that turbo exactly, I think that one's off a dodge, but something similar.
Might not be that turbo exactly, I think that one's off a dodge, but something similar.
Last edited by Cactus on Jul 09, 2011 1:00 AM, edited 1 time in total.
thats a fairly small hair drier but the low e redline may help, one problem i can think of is boost creep with the stock gate not being able to vent enough drive pressure, should spool instantly with another .5l as its cooking nicely at 2k with nothing but a gutted stock airbox on the 2.3 4 banger. get the head pipe too as its easily modified and has the o2 port nice and close out of the way
edit, the volvo makes 165hp stock with this turbo which is around 45 more then non turbo on around 7-8# some were equipped with a bleeder ("turbo plus") that upped it to 10# and 180hp
edit, the volvo makes 165hp stock with this turbo which is around 45 more then non turbo on around 7-8# some were equipped with a bleeder ("turbo plus") that upped it to 10# and 180hp
worry not, it's going to happen. It's probably going to be after PVGP, wanna make sure my money is right so I'm not screwing myself.Nanajoth wrote:Buy the swap first, you know you want to.alijonny wrote:that's cause I'm waiting for you to give up and post the thing in the FS sectionCactus wrote:Yeah, let's hear them. I think I asked you in Canada, but you never said much on the subject.
I worked out the TD04HL-16T (Volvo V70 T5) will sort of work on a 528e with an 885 head. It should flow enough to supply enough air for 313 hp @ 12.7 psi. At peak power though it will be to right of the peak efficency island with an efficency of 0.68 giving inlet temps with intercooler (ic = 0.75) of 44 celcius. I believe these sums to be good. The only worry is on a hot day (not really a big problem in the U.K) say 303K = 30 Celcius then inlet temps will rise to 55 Celcius. Maybe a really efficient intercooler will be needed or a bigger turbo unless the engine can cope with this. Or maybe just don't get silly on hot days.
I still have not worked out if 0.75 efficencies or better can be achieved with a air to air intercooler.
So it would work even better on a eta and you should see at least 240 hp at 12.7 psi.
If however you have the TDO4HL-15T found in the first Volvo T5's that is not such a good choice as I think with that turbo you will hit the choke line at any boost pressure.
I still have not worked out if 0.75 efficencies or better can be achieved with a air to air intercooler.
So it would work even better on a eta and you should see at least 240 hp at 12.7 psi.
If however you have the TDO4HL-15T found in the first Volvo T5's that is not such a good choice as I think with that turbo you will hit the choke line at any boost pressure.