Lighted Window Switch Diagram

E28 technical advice asked and given! Troubleshooting, modifications and more.
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LexingTom 535is
Posts: 550
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Lexington, Kentucky

Post by LexingTom 535is »

Does anyone have a schematic on the lighted window switches?

Merci!

Tom
pdx 528e
Posts: 3034
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Idaho Falls, ID

Post by pdx 528e »

Bentley Pg 22-40. I don't have my scanner set up to provide the actual schematic. Its in the ETM as well but they dont show how the bulbs are wired into them.

HTH
papajetta
Posts: 159
Joined: Feb 12, 2006

Post by papajetta »

its a pretty simple circuit.
the connector should look like this:

=== <-- this should be hot when ign is on
=== === <-- this should always show ground
this should always show ground--> === ===

the 2 terminals in the middle go to your window motor, when switch is no pressed the inner terminals see continuity with the outer ones ( they are grounded ). when the switch is pressed either direction, continuity switches from groung on that side to positive terminal on the top.
papajetta
Posts: 159
Joined: Feb 12, 2006

Post by papajetta »

.........===............
......===.........===
===.......===
this is what the connector shoud look like, previous post didn't come out like i had expected
LexingTom 535is
Posts: 550
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Lexington, Kentucky

Post by LexingTom 535is »

This is in regards to my garage door opener wired to the car and to a lighted window switch that's installed on the dash.

So...with this information, I had wanted to run power to the switch so that the switch would be lit. (Which it is not right now.) But...if I think through this, it would appear as if I'd send voltage the other way when I pressed the button if I lit up the switch with power from the car. Is this correct?

Right now the garage door opener is powered by tapping into the radio ground and hot. The lighted window switch that operates the opener is connected to the top terminal and the terminal on the right hand side of the second row. Only the solid/filled-in button operates the garage door remote.

Can I shoot some juice to the switch that will light the switch, but not adversely affect the remote PCB?

Thanks,

T
spinedocab
Posts: 2600
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Upper Bucks County, PA

Post by spinedocab »

Simplify a bit...do it with an UNLIGHTED switch. It is still labeled. It is still tactile. And you needn't worry about cooking your opener.

Are you putting this in the stock radio fader location? That's where I have my power antenna switch.

Andrew.
Mike in Louisville
Posts: 535
Joined: Feb 12, 2006

Post by Mike in Louisville »

[QUOTE="spinedocab"]Simplify a bit...do it with an UNLIGHTED switch. It is still labeled. It is still tactile. And you needn't worry about cooking your opener.

Are you putting this in the stock radio fader location? That's where I have my power antenna switch.

Andrew.[/QUOTE]

Sounds like he has the garage door already working, just wants to make it shiny.
LexingTom 535is
Posts: 550
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Lexington, Kentucky

Post by LexingTom 535is »

[QUOTE="spinedocab"]Simplify a bit...do it with an UNLIGHTED switch. It is still labeled. It is still tactile. And you needn't worry about cooking your opener.

Are you putting this in the stock radio fader location? That's where I have my power antenna switch.

Andrew.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, it's already in there, works fine, just wanted the lights to work as Mike stated so humorously.

My anteanna cut-out is in the old fader location. This is just opposite that on the right-hand side of the radio.
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