So - I innocently decided I was going to replace the output shaft seal on my 535i w/ 265 tranny.
Hm. My 1/2 impact doesn't seem to be removing the nut. Douse with propane torch for 10 minutes, try again. No luck.
Bolt LARGE metal thing to output flange, and pin to car with floor jack to be sure it's not moving. Repeat above. No luck.
Borrow BIG 1/2" air impact from friend. 120lb line air. Repeat above. No luck.
<some time passes...>
Finally deciding to simply employ the superior force method, I rent a Makita ONE inch electric impact. Yes, ladies and gentleman, a ONE inch electric impact.
http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=6910
This is the most impressive electric power tool I've ever been able to lift off the ground. It was HEAVY. I was stoked. I was almost afraid to pull the trigger on it.
It didn't take it off.
WTF.
A ONE INCH 750fl-lb ELECTRIC IMPACT GUN WOULD NOT REMOVE THIS S(*&^(&(*&)(*&Y LITTLE 30mm nut.
It's, uh, staying on there. The seal just wasn't that bad to begin with. I'll let the guys at the shop figure it out next time I have a clutch put in and the transmission it out of the car.
For crying out loud. !@#$
Torque and Impact
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LexingTom 535is
- Posts: 550
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: Lexington, Kentucky
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Rich in WI
- Posts: 1115
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
I've removed a few of these nuts without that type of trouble.
What size or type of socket are you using on the nut? I'd start at the very simple stuff and make sure everything is connecting properly from the impact socket. Even if it's been lock-tited on, it should break free with the torque you're putting into it.
In the past I beat up my Facom 32mm? thin walled socket on this nut. There were times when I had to hit it for 20 seconds or so before it broke loose, but it always broke loose.
And they are not left handed threads. The nut should come off lefty loosy and go on righty tighty.
Rich in WI
[Edit by Rich in WI on [TIME]1134669416[/TIME]]
What size or type of socket are you using on the nut? I'd start at the very simple stuff and make sure everything is connecting properly from the impact socket. Even if it's been lock-tited on, it should break free with the torque you're putting into it.
In the past I beat up my Facom 32mm? thin walled socket on this nut. There were times when I had to hit it for 20 seconds or so before it broke loose, but it always broke loose.
And they are not left handed threads. The nut should come off lefty loosy and go on righty tighty.
Rich in WI
[Edit by Rich in WI on [TIME]1134669416[/TIME]]
[QUOTE="Rich in WI"]What size or type of socket are you using on the nut? I'd start at the very simple stuff and make sure everything is connecting properly from the impact socket. Even if it's been lock-tited on, it should break free with the torque you're putting into it.[/QUOTE]
It's a 3" long 30mm impact nut - necessary given the way the shaft protrudes past the end of the flange.
Common sense says you're right, but this electric was a BRUTE, and after 15 seconds of it I was afraid I was going to simply explode the socket or the nut. As it was, there were hairline cracks starting at the edges of the socket when I got done...
It's a 3" long 30mm impact nut - necessary given the way the shaft protrudes past the end of the flange.
Common sense says you're right, but this electric was a BRUTE, and after 15 seconds of it I was afraid I was going to simply explode the socket or the nut. As it was, there were hairline cracks starting at the edges of the socket when I got done...
[QUOTE="Lotus72D"]My predecessor to the IR 2135Ti impact gun had no trouble and needed just one trigger pull to remove the nut after removing all the locking items using a ground down 30-mm 'front wheel drive' impact socket from the car parts store. Bam...It was off. Can't understand what is keeping it from coming off. [/QUOTE]
Yeah - my dad said the same thing. He was a crew chief on a Can-Am car, and has tons of experience with this sort of thing. He came over to show me how it was done, and was astounded. Since there was no lock ring, I'm wondering if some enthusiastic mechanic somewhere decided to make sure it wasn't coming off when he installed it...
Only thing I can thing of is the mass of the socket plus the reducer requred to get from 1" to 1/2" damped the impact enough to keep it from coming off...
[Edit by cspargo on [TIME]1134672429[/TIME]]
Yeah - my dad said the same thing. He was a crew chief on a Can-Am car, and has tons of experience with this sort of thing. He came over to show me how it was done, and was astounded. Since there was no lock ring, I'm wondering if some enthusiastic mechanic somewhere decided to make sure it wasn't coming off when he installed it...
Only thing I can thing of is the mass of the socket plus the reducer requred to get from 1" to 1/2" damped the impact enough to keep it from coming off...
[Edit by cspargo on [TIME]1134672429[/TIME]]
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Rich in WI
- Posts: 1115
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
[QUOTE="Rich in WI"]Does the socket fit easily in the flange? Or is it possibly contacting the flange walls? That could cause some interference or friction.
Sounds like it may be time to get out the dremel and cutting wheels. Yuck.
Rich[/QUOTE]
Yeah, but it can wait until it's OUT of the car. Perhaps I can build a jig that incorporates heat and a torque multiplier when I have easier access to it.
Sounds like it may be time to get out the dremel and cutting wheels. Yuck.
Rich[/QUOTE]
Yeah, but it can wait until it's OUT of the car. Perhaps I can build a jig that incorporates heat and a torque multiplier when I have easier access to it.
The socket needs to be a 30mm deep, thinwall socket to get in there. I drifted mine off with a dull chisel. %) Lying on my back, it took a little over a 1/2 hr to free it up. The torque setting is about 90 ' lbs for a 5spd . Bentley mentions using a Loctite sealer. I wonder if the mechanic used thread locker instead. If so getting the nut hot (700f) will break its bond.