I would like to clean the engine on the inside, what are some good additives to use?
[Edit by Mless5 on [TIME]1128034352[/TIME]]
222Ks, engine clean up.
http://www.mye28.com/cgi-bin/forum/foru ... hread=7525 or scroll down a ways %) %)
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e6figueroa
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
[QUOTE="e6figueroa"]on my bmw 528e, 168,934 miles i use transmission fluid for 500miles before an oil change, it does a great job but remember an old engine like that, the old stuff is most likely holding it together, be very very carful.[/QUOTE] there is better stuff out there for this purpose. Using ATF for engine cleaning harkens back to a time when the detergent package in ATF was better than the motor oil add pkage. That is no longer true. Basically, all ATF is doing is thinning out the oil. Do a little lurking over on BITOG.com, to learn a lot. about oil and additives. Its been an eye opener for me.
[QUOTE="e6figueroa"]on my bmw 528e, 168,934 miles i use transmission fluid for 500miles before an oil change, it does a great job but remember an old engine like that, the old stuff is most likely holding it together, be very very carful.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE="a"] there is better stuff out there for this purpose. Using ATF for engine cleaning harkens back to a time when the detergent package in ATF was better than the motor oil add pkage. That is no longer true. Basically, all ATF is doing is thinning out the oil. Do a little lurking over on BITOG.com, to learn a lot. about oil and additives. Its been an eye opener for me. [/QUOTE]
That's where I am looking right now. So confusing! Oh well, I guess I'll hafta spend a quite a few days down there.
[QUOTE="a"] there is better stuff out there for this purpose. Using ATF for engine cleaning harkens back to a time when the detergent package in ATF was better than the motor oil add pkage. That is no longer true. Basically, all ATF is doing is thinning out the oil. Do a little lurking over on BITOG.com, to learn a lot. about oil and additives. Its been an eye opener for me. [/QUOTE]
That's where I am looking right now. So confusing! Oh well, I guess I'll hafta spend a quite a few days down there.
Why do anything? Just change your oil when you should and your car should be fine. That's all I do, and my 535i has 333k miles and runs great.Mless5 wrote:I would like to clean the engine on the inside, what are some good additives to use?
[Edited 12/31/2007 to enable BBCode]
Last edited by RonW on Dec 31, 2007 8:48 PM, edited 1 time in total.
[QUOTE="Mless5"]I would like to clean the engine on the inside, what are some good additives to use?[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE="RonW"]Why do anything? Just change your oil when you should and your car should be fine. That's all I do, and my 535i has 333k miles and runs great.[/QUOTE]
Eeeh, why run dirty? Just want to make it live a bit longer and healthier life I suppose.
[QUOTE="RonW"]Why do anything? Just change your oil when you should and your car should be fine. That's all I do, and my 535i has 333k miles and runs great.[/QUOTE]
Eeeh, why run dirty? Just want to make it live a bit longer and healthier life I suppose.
[QUOTE="RonW"]Why do anything? Just change your oil when you should and your car should be fine. That's all I do, and my 535i has 333k miles and runs great.[/QUOTE]
Because who knows how dilligent the previous owners were with their oil changes.
Switching to a quality synthetic will clean things up in there nicely. I don't go for "engine flush" type products or procedures. If you're worried about the synthetic working too quickly, you can always "ease into it" by using half synthetic oil, half regular oil (or one of the synthetic blends on the shelf) for an oil change or two before going full synthetic.
Jeremy
Because who knows how dilligent the previous owners were with their oil changes.
Switching to a quality synthetic will clean things up in there nicely. I don't go for "engine flush" type products or procedures. If you're worried about the synthetic working too quickly, you can always "ease into it" by using half synthetic oil, half regular oil (or one of the synthetic blends on the shelf) for an oil change or two before going full synthetic.
Jeremy
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dcbrewmeister
- Posts: 1444
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: San Antonio
- Contact:
[QUOTE="Mless5"]I would like to clean the engine on the inside, what are some good additives to use?[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE="RonW"]Why do anything? Just change your oil when you should and your car should be fine. That's all I do, and my 535i has 333k miles and runs great.[/QUOTE]
I'm in agreement with Ron W here...
With a good quality oil, not the s**t from the dollar store, and regular oil changes (I change mine at 3,000miles with filter) your engine should be fine. Use a good quality gas so your engine runs/burns better. keep your air filter changed when it gets dirty, pcv system, and all those little filters on your car inside the breather.
If you are listening to the oil change places telling you that you need an engine flush... that is just a sell. If you take your oil cap off, and all you see is "clean" metal coated with oil, your engine is fine... If you see sludge, then you need to flush it.
Here's a news flash, after running your oil for 3-5,000 miles (how ever long you run it) your oil is going to come out black, not clean like when you put it in, oil change places want you to believe your oil is supposed to come out clean, well that's just bullshit. ANYONE!!! that tells you after 3,000 miles that their oil comes out clean is FULL OF IT!!! I have seen some that come out looking pretty good, but not clean.. The oil in your engine is supposed to pick up dirt and trap it, aside from lubricating engine parts, that's what it's for.
I have to question the "decarbing" thing that people are doing with seafoam... Some have mentioned "it may clog your cats" So if "cleaning" your engine winds up destroying a $500 part on your car, where's the logic?
If your engine (regardless of mileage) is running fine, and is not "sludgey" (is that a word?) I would suggest just running a good quality oil, or as some else suggested, gradually converting to synthetic, keeping ALL the little filters changed... most of these are ignored... and your car WILL be fine.
Someone is going to need to show me some HARD evidence (not just some website on the internet, I can make one that says what I want it to say) with HARD facts that flushing an engine will extend it's life because I haven't found one.
There is an old saying "If it isn't broke, don't fix it" Unless your engine is just mess inside, just keep changing oil and filters and move on. I use Lucas gas treatment in mine, and the idle has settled down, and it has quieted the "clicking" from the valves a little, but it's going to click anyway isn't it.
I'm not saying close the hood and forget it, but why "fix" something if there isn't a problem? If the inside of your engine is "clean", no sludge, then leave it be. Regular oils have coma a LONG way and are loaded with detergents and the viscosity last a lot longer than the days of old. The better quality oils are almost as good as synthetics if not equals. With over 200k on your engine, I wouldn't run the oil, no matter what type you are using, longer than 3500miles especially if you do a lot of city or stop start driving.
[Edit by dcbrewmeister on [TIME]1128087444[/TIME]]
[QUOTE="RonW"]Why do anything? Just change your oil when you should and your car should be fine. That's all I do, and my 535i has 333k miles and runs great.[/QUOTE]
I'm in agreement with Ron W here...
With a good quality oil, not the s**t from the dollar store, and regular oil changes (I change mine at 3,000miles with filter) your engine should be fine. Use a good quality gas so your engine runs/burns better. keep your air filter changed when it gets dirty, pcv system, and all those little filters on your car inside the breather.
If you are listening to the oil change places telling you that you need an engine flush... that is just a sell. If you take your oil cap off, and all you see is "clean" metal coated with oil, your engine is fine... If you see sludge, then you need to flush it.
Here's a news flash, after running your oil for 3-5,000 miles (how ever long you run it) your oil is going to come out black, not clean like when you put it in, oil change places want you to believe your oil is supposed to come out clean, well that's just bullshit. ANYONE!!! that tells you after 3,000 miles that their oil comes out clean is FULL OF IT!!! I have seen some that come out looking pretty good, but not clean.. The oil in your engine is supposed to pick up dirt and trap it, aside from lubricating engine parts, that's what it's for.
I have to question the "decarbing" thing that people are doing with seafoam... Some have mentioned "it may clog your cats" So if "cleaning" your engine winds up destroying a $500 part on your car, where's the logic?
If your engine (regardless of mileage) is running fine, and is not "sludgey" (is that a word?) I would suggest just running a good quality oil, or as some else suggested, gradually converting to synthetic, keeping ALL the little filters changed... most of these are ignored... and your car WILL be fine.
Someone is going to need to show me some HARD evidence (not just some website on the internet, I can make one that says what I want it to say) with HARD facts that flushing an engine will extend it's life because I haven't found one.
There is an old saying "If it isn't broke, don't fix it" Unless your engine is just mess inside, just keep changing oil and filters and move on. I use Lucas gas treatment in mine, and the idle has settled down, and it has quieted the "clicking" from the valves a little, but it's going to click anyway isn't it.
I'm not saying close the hood and forget it, but why "fix" something if there isn't a problem? If the inside of your engine is "clean", no sludge, then leave it be. Regular oils have coma a LONG way and are loaded with detergents and the viscosity last a lot longer than the days of old. The better quality oils are almost as good as synthetics if not equals. With over 200k on your engine, I wouldn't run the oil, no matter what type you are using, longer than 3500miles especially if you do a lot of city or stop start driving.
[Edit by dcbrewmeister on [TIME]1128087444[/TIME]]
I use valvoline maxlife - it stops the oil seals on older engines becoming brittle.... http://www.valvolineuk.com/maxlife/maxoil.htm
De-carbarbonizing the combustion chambers rids them of deposits that raise the compression ratio caused by deposits decreasing the volume of the chamber. The raised compression causes higher temperature, which in turn creates more NOx . Likewise, carbon will form under the rings In the piston lands. The grooves have to be clean because that is where the compression works to push the rings outward to seal against the cylinder wall. That factoid I picked up from BITOG. I thought that the spring tension in the compression rings did this. Carbon does build up here and it sticks the rings in place. If they cant expand, compression is lost and blowby happens. The blowby gums up the oil control rings and blue smoke happens. At this point. people assume the engine is on its last legs and rebuild the engine or dump the car. This will happen to an engine in the normal course of events. If you free up the sticking rings by using a solvent then you can optimize the engine's compression. The trick is to use a mild solvent that wont cause damage to the cylinder walls or the bearings. Decarbing with water works pretty well . So does Sea Foam , Ventil Sauber or just about any injection cleaner. If you use a really strong solvent, use just prior to an oil change. Liquids dont compress, so care has to taken to prevent hydro lock. which can bend rods. Sea Foam has specific instructions on the can, so that is why I recommend it. Also its widely available. As for the cat issue , thats the fun part. A good high RPM drive, AKA, an Italian tuneup, will raise cat temps high enough to burn the carbon out . I have only used additives that work on the top cylinders and fuel system.
Lately I have been adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel. Used as directed, a quart will treat 80 gallons. It has been used for 83 yrs as a top cylinder lube. It loosens deposits and prevents them from forming too. . I have used it for years in my lawn mowers. Basically to replace the the good qualities of lead missing in regular gas. . I started using it in my cars after lurking on BITOG a while. Here's why. There was a link to a small aircraft board that generally advocated using MMO to clean up lead deposits caused by running av gas. Then one of the BITOG moderators on the additives section, Gary Allen, started his own test of MMO in a 13yr old Caravan with over 150k on it. He used a qt of MMO at every fillup. This is nearly 10X the recommended dosage. The engine started faster and ran better. It didnt start smoking, until he upped the dosage to 2 qts. He passed PA smog test with a qt in the gas tank. That convinced me that it wasnt harming the cat. Further good news came when he had to remove the heads at 170 k to repair a coolant leak his daughter ignored. He posted pics of the piston crowns. They were clean, I could read the casting #s on them. That made a believer out of me. Best of all the stuff smells delicious. Yes, fuel has detergents added to it, but they are minimal. I have read posts alluding to a paper from BMW and other car makers stating that the standards for fuel detergents arent adequate and should be raised.
Oil flushes are tricky, if the loosened sludge clogs the pickup screen to the oil pump, the resulting loss of oil pressure causes more damage than the unmolested sludge would. Regular oil changes AND driving the car long enough to get it to operational temperature prevent the buildup of sludge. Some engines and some oils are more prone to creating sludge than others. BITOG guys rave about a few oil additives to slow clean an engine. Chief among them is Auto Rx , a lanoline based ester that works over a 3kmile process of 3 oil changes and filters. The stuff will revive seals to a certain extent as well as clean the engine. Too rich for me though. And as stated, at over 300k , if it aint broke it doesnt get fixed.
[Edit by a on [TIME]1128099436[/TIME]]
Lately I have been adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel. Used as directed, a quart will treat 80 gallons. It has been used for 83 yrs as a top cylinder lube. It loosens deposits and prevents them from forming too. . I have used it for years in my lawn mowers. Basically to replace the the good qualities of lead missing in regular gas. . I started using it in my cars after lurking on BITOG a while. Here's why. There was a link to a small aircraft board that generally advocated using MMO to clean up lead deposits caused by running av gas. Then one of the BITOG moderators on the additives section, Gary Allen, started his own test of MMO in a 13yr old Caravan with over 150k on it. He used a qt of MMO at every fillup. This is nearly 10X the recommended dosage. The engine started faster and ran better. It didnt start smoking, until he upped the dosage to 2 qts. He passed PA smog test with a qt in the gas tank. That convinced me that it wasnt harming the cat. Further good news came when he had to remove the heads at 170 k to repair a coolant leak his daughter ignored. He posted pics of the piston crowns. They were clean, I could read the casting #s on them. That made a believer out of me. Best of all the stuff smells delicious. Yes, fuel has detergents added to it, but they are minimal. I have read posts alluding to a paper from BMW and other car makers stating that the standards for fuel detergents arent adequate and should be raised.
Oil flushes are tricky, if the loosened sludge clogs the pickup screen to the oil pump, the resulting loss of oil pressure causes more damage than the unmolested sludge would. Regular oil changes AND driving the car long enough to get it to operational temperature prevent the buildup of sludge. Some engines and some oils are more prone to creating sludge than others. BITOG guys rave about a few oil additives to slow clean an engine. Chief among them is Auto Rx , a lanoline based ester that works over a 3kmile process of 3 oil changes and filters. The stuff will revive seals to a certain extent as well as clean the engine. Too rich for me though. And as stated, at over 300k , if it aint broke it doesnt get fixed.
[Edit by a on [TIME]1128099436[/TIME]]
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dcbrewmeister
- Posts: 1444
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- Location: San Antonio
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I understand the reasoning behind de-carbing, I simply stated I couldn't see the logic in doing something that may clog your cats... If you want to do it, maybe unhook your cats before doing so so it just blows all that crap on the ground instead of into the cats... I think I would prefer a slower method of doing it, i.e additives like MMO or other fuel additives, over the "dump it all at once" method.
And I whole-heartedly agree with you about leaving an engine alone (sludge wise that is) because if you flush it and big chunks break free, they may clog oil passages and then you've got a bigger problem on your hands.
But on the part of additives in gas at the pump, if you run one type consistantly it will make a difference... Running one or two tanks once in awhile will not do a damn thing. I didn't mean it as "run a tank of Shell, and all your problems will go away". I understand gas prices, trust me, I was driving 130 miles a day round trip just to get to and from work, but I NEVER went to the cheapest gas I could find, I run Shell or Chevron, nothing else. My car gets better gas mileage on Shell, but I have ALWAYS REFUSED to run convience store (Mapco, Stop & Go, Circle K) gas. My cars ran like crap and always sounded like they needed a tune-up.
I don't skimp on car maintenance, I would rather hold off another week as apposed to running a cheaper oil in it. I rely on my car too much for that, and that was pretty much the jest of what I was saying, use high quality products in your car, and it will last a lot longer.
My car has 287,000 miles on it, I have a 2" folder of everything that has ever been done to this car. My LeBaron had 230,000 miles on it (had 128,000 when I bought it) and up until I hit that damn dog was running perfect and got 28MPG... But i never went the cheap route with that car. BTW, the engine is in another LeBaron and STILL going strong.
Some people overthink things and try to fix it before it happens. I simply stated to Mless5, that if the inside of his engine, you can pretty much tell by looking into the oil fill hole, looks clean, that he is probably better off just leaving it alone and using a good quality oil and gas and keeping filters changed. If you open the oil fil cap and it looks pretty clean, the car was most likely pretty well maintained, like-wise if the whole engine compartment "looks" clean (and I'm not talking the "car lot" clean, that's fake).
You run MMO, I run Lucas... have had very good results with it. Engine smoothed out at idle, I'm getting decent enough gas mileage, after all, what should a 287,000 miles 535is get around town? I'm pulling 21 (when I'm not playing Mario Andretti that is)
Seafoams first set of instructions say dump it in the gas tank... then it goes on to using a vacumn hose... and it even mentions using the brake booster hose, which I TOTALLY disagree with, I think it's too much liquid being sucked into the engine at one time. and like a mentioned "hydro lock" and bending rods and you thought carbon was bad, now you need a rebuild.
[added]
Sludge buildup is also caused by changing "types" of oil... going from conventional to synthetic back to conventional and back to systhetic to often. In others words, run synthetic, or run conventional, but do not switch back and forth every other time you change oil.
[Edit by dcbrewmeister on [TIME]1128103168[/TIME]]
And I whole-heartedly agree with you about leaving an engine alone (sludge wise that is) because if you flush it and big chunks break free, they may clog oil passages and then you've got a bigger problem on your hands.
But on the part of additives in gas at the pump, if you run one type consistantly it will make a difference... Running one or two tanks once in awhile will not do a damn thing. I didn't mean it as "run a tank of Shell, and all your problems will go away". I understand gas prices, trust me, I was driving 130 miles a day round trip just to get to and from work, but I NEVER went to the cheapest gas I could find, I run Shell or Chevron, nothing else. My car gets better gas mileage on Shell, but I have ALWAYS REFUSED to run convience store (Mapco, Stop & Go, Circle K) gas. My cars ran like crap and always sounded like they needed a tune-up.
I don't skimp on car maintenance, I would rather hold off another week as apposed to running a cheaper oil in it. I rely on my car too much for that, and that was pretty much the jest of what I was saying, use high quality products in your car, and it will last a lot longer.
My car has 287,000 miles on it, I have a 2" folder of everything that has ever been done to this car. My LeBaron had 230,000 miles on it (had 128,000 when I bought it) and up until I hit that damn dog was running perfect and got 28MPG... But i never went the cheap route with that car. BTW, the engine is in another LeBaron and STILL going strong.
Some people overthink things and try to fix it before it happens. I simply stated to Mless5, that if the inside of his engine, you can pretty much tell by looking into the oil fill hole, looks clean, that he is probably better off just leaving it alone and using a good quality oil and gas and keeping filters changed. If you open the oil fil cap and it looks pretty clean, the car was most likely pretty well maintained, like-wise if the whole engine compartment "looks" clean (and I'm not talking the "car lot" clean, that's fake).
You run MMO, I run Lucas... have had very good results with it. Engine smoothed out at idle, I'm getting decent enough gas mileage, after all, what should a 287,000 miles 535is get around town? I'm pulling 21 (when I'm not playing Mario Andretti that is)
Seafoams first set of instructions say dump it in the gas tank... then it goes on to using a vacumn hose... and it even mentions using the brake booster hose, which I TOTALLY disagree with, I think it's too much liquid being sucked into the engine at one time. and like a mentioned "hydro lock" and bending rods and you thought carbon was bad, now you need a rebuild.
[added]
Sludge buildup is also caused by changing "types" of oil... going from conventional to synthetic back to conventional and back to systhetic to often. In others words, run synthetic, or run conventional, but do not switch back and forth every other time you change oil.
[Edit by dcbrewmeister on [TIME]1128103168[/TIME]]
The biggest problem with sludge buildup in motors is that it can create grooves in some of the seal/bearing seats. If this happens, when a leak finally does develope, replacing the seal won't work because the seal doesn't have a smooth surface to seal against anymore, and that motor that you were planning to rebuild is now scrap. That's a good reason to want to keep the motor clean to me. Most people buying these cars don't think "long term" like that, however, which is why basic maintenance gets neglected to begin with.
I don't advocate "engine flush" type products as I think they're a little dangerous, but as I said before, synthetic oil is significantly better in terms of the additive/detergent packages used than converntional oil. If you really want to best for your motor and are thinking long term you should probably be using synthetic anyway.
Jeremy
PS- Andy, thanks for the MMO info, it was quite interesting. Paragraphs would've made it easier to read though, hehe.
I'll have to talk to you more about that product this weekend over a couple of beers.
I don't advocate "engine flush" type products as I think they're a little dangerous, but as I said before, synthetic oil is significantly better in terms of the additive/detergent packages used than converntional oil. If you really want to best for your motor and are thinking long term you should probably be using synthetic anyway.
Jeremy
PS- Andy, thanks for the MMO info, it was quite interesting. Paragraphs would've made it easier to read though, hehe.
I'll have to talk to you more about that product this weekend over a couple of beers.THIS is why e28 is the only board worth checking daily... Quality discussion and deconstruction of relevant issues about cars like mine! (82 528e w/ 159K on it.) This is the stuff I need to know, and I didn't have to wade thru namecalling and water ballon throwing to get to it!
Well done guys!
Now, I know where to pick up MMO.. where can I find Lucas products?
Well done guys!
Now, I know where to pick up MMO.. where can I find Lucas products?
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dcbrewmeister
- Posts: 1444
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: San Antonio
- Contact:
I don't condem nor condone the use of synthetics... Conventional oils have been improved over the past ten years to be almost the equivelent of a synthetic. We have ALL heard the horror stories of "I tried a synthetic, and now I have new leaks" and I've been reluctant to try it. But on the other hand, I change my oil every 3,000 miles and I use, humm, I'm not saying because I don't want to make this a this is good this is crap topic, so let's just say I'm happy with my oil choice. One of the biggie selling points it seems with synthetics is you can run it longer between changes... Well, I have no desire to do that.
I'm a firm believer that it really doesn't matter if your running conventional or synthetic oil in your car, it's MOSTLY personal preferance with the quality of today's better quality oils, but more a matter of changing it and the filter and keeping it changed, along with the rest of your cars maintence is the real key.
I'm a firm believer that it really doesn't matter if your running conventional or synthetic oil in your car, it's MOSTLY personal preferance with the quality of today's better quality oils, but more a matter of changing it and the filter and keeping it changed, along with the rest of your cars maintence is the real key.
[QUOTE="keitaj"]THIS is why e28 is the only board worth checking daily... Quality discussion and deconstruction of relevant issues about cars like mine! (82 528e w/ 159K on it.) This is the stuff I need to know, and I didn't have to wade thru namecalling and water ballon throwing to get to it!
Well done guys!
Now, I know where to pick up MMO.. where can I find Lucas products?[/QUOTE]
Was thinking the same thing. I have it open all day just like my mailbox!
You will be surprised, but I just saw some Lucas bottles in AutoZone.
Well done guys!
Now, I know where to pick up MMO.. where can I find Lucas products?[/QUOTE]
Was thinking the same thing. I have it open all day just like my mailbox!
You will be surprised, but I just saw some Lucas bottles in AutoZone.
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dcbrewmeister
- Posts: 1444
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: San Antonio
- Contact:
You were in AutoZone? JK
I'm hoping that the one in your area is better than mine... Mine never has ANYTHING and has to get it from the warehouse, and seems to be gearing more towards the "custom" crowd as opposed to the "backyard mechanic" crowd.
No I'm not surprised at you seeing Lucas at AutoZone, I get mine from Pepboys (it's cheaper there) when I'm near it... kinda a drive for me to get there, so I don't. But O'Rielly's has it also, and I think Advanced (not sure though) has it.
I'm hoping that the one in your area is better than mine... Mine never has ANYTHING and has to get it from the warehouse, and seems to be gearing more towards the "custom" crowd as opposed to the "backyard mechanic" crowd.
No I'm not surprised at you seeing Lucas at AutoZone, I get mine from Pepboys (it's cheaper there) when I'm near it... kinda a drive for me to get there, so I don't. But O'Rielly's has it also, and I think Advanced (not sure though) has it.
DC BM Yup using the brake booster was scary. The engine shut off like I turned the key. It was a loooong 20 minutes waiting per instructions to restart. It took 3 sessions to suck in the entire pint. So, thinking it could cause hydro lock and knowing it can differ. Same with your fears regarding the cat cloggage etc. Hey, until I proved other wise, my thoughts were the same, but now I know better. But , dont take my blathering as gospel. Heres the Commonwealth of MA, stats . The decarb took place between these 2 smog tests. figures are grams per mile.
emission reading limit retest 282 k miles
HC .48 2.00 .46
CO 3.33 30.00 7.64
NOx 3.11 Fail 3.00 1.28
CO2 362.71 NA 312.63
Other than the decarb, I had new plugs and O2 sensor More evidence of the value of the procedure is that since I bought the car with 150k on it The air filter has always collected oil from blow by . On a whim I checked it, when I was digging up the smog printouts. Filter has been in for a yr/27k . Its got no oil on it. Before I thought the engine was running better at 300k. Now , I know it is
Jeremy, Grooves in sealing surfaces can be dealt with by moving the seal either in or out of its original position. Recent advances in dino oil to conform to the latest SM spec have substantially narrowed the gap between dino and synth. bases. Additive pkgs too. At this stage the biggest deal is how long to keep the stuff in there. . That ultimately boils down to driving patterns and conditions, the vehicle and the oil. Enginewise, My regimen of 4$ Walmart 20/50 and a 3$ Stp filter every 3kmiles is just as good , if not better than somebody elses 25$ synth/10 $ baldwin filter at 15k. Cruise the Used oil anlyses over guess where and draw your own conclusions. If you have a new gm or Honda with a smart oil monitor or take UOA s like trucking outfits do. you can leave oil in waaaay longer. .
. The decarb took place between these 2 smog tests. figures are grams per mile. emission reading limit retest 282 k miles
HC .48 2.00 .46
CO 3.33 30.00 7.64
NOx 3.11 Fail 3.00 1.28
CO2 362.71 NA 312.63
Other than the decarb, I had new plugs and O2 sensor More evidence of the value of the procedure is that since I bought the car with 150k on it The air filter has always collected oil from blow by . On a whim I checked it, when I was digging up the smog printouts. Filter has been in for a yr/27k . Its got no oil on it. Before I thought the engine was running better at 300k. Now , I know it is
Jeremy, Grooves in sealing surfaces can be dealt with by moving the seal either in or out of its original position. Recent advances in dino oil to conform to the latest SM spec have substantially narrowed the gap between dino and synth. bases. Additive pkgs too. At this stage the biggest deal is how long to keep the stuff in there. . That ultimately boils down to driving patterns and conditions, the vehicle and the oil. Enginewise, My regimen of 4$ Walmart 20/50 and a 3$ Stp filter every 3kmiles is just as good , if not better than somebody elses 25$ synth/10 $ baldwin filter at 15k. Cruise the Used oil anlyses over guess where and draw your own conclusions. If you have a new gm or Honda with a smart oil monitor or take UOA s like trucking outfits do. you can leave oil in waaaay longer. .
[QUOTE="dcbrewmeister"]You were in AutoZone? JK
I'm hoping that the one in your area is better than mine... Mine never has ANYTHING and has to get it from the warehouse, and seems to be gearing more towards the "custom" crowd as opposed to the "backyard mechanic" crowd.
No I'm not surprised at you seeing Lucas at AutoZone, I get mine from Pepboys (it's cheaper there) when I'm near it... kinda a drive for me to get there, so I don't. But O'Rielly's has it also, and I think Advanced (not sure though) has it.[/QUOTE]
Mine is nasty! Very bling oriented and forget about it if you have a German car. Just needed some license plate bolts.
I'm hoping that the one in your area is better than mine... Mine never has ANYTHING and has to get it from the warehouse, and seems to be gearing more towards the "custom" crowd as opposed to the "backyard mechanic" crowd.
No I'm not surprised at you seeing Lucas at AutoZone, I get mine from Pepboys (it's cheaper there) when I'm near it... kinda a drive for me to get there, so I don't. But O'Rielly's has it also, and I think Advanced (not sure though) has it.[/QUOTE]
Mine is nasty! Very bling oriented and forget about it if you have a German car. Just needed some license plate bolts.
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dcbrewmeister
- Posts: 1444
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: San Antonio
- Contact:
See, at 287,000 miles, I don't have any of those issues with my car, air cleaner is how it's supposed to be, and compression test was 130psi on all cyl except one, it was 135psi (rebel) so I'm thinking it's been a well maintained car, given the stack of papers that came with it, I can prove it was. It uses about 1/2qt oil between changes (I think that is awesome) no smoke and it seems to be clean under the valve cover. So I can't see trying to decarb it... I run Lucas at every fillup, and add the synthetic Lucas at every oil change... I just have no complaints, that's the way I treat all my cars, always have.
And I don't just buy "well maintained" cars either... the LeBaron I talk about is red... well it was after I removed the layer of grime from it... the interior was grey... once I shampooed it three times... and once I washed down the engine 4 times, it looked like an engine. If my laptop hadn't gone belly up, I'd post a picture. But the engine is still going strong, and that's how I treated it, and the 3.0l chryslers are NOT known to be high mileage engines, most croak at 150k, if they make it that far.
I'm glad it worked out for you, but I'm happy with the way things are going for me, so I'm going to leave well enough alone. Tried and true method, change oil & filter 3k, and keep all other filters changed as needed, run good quality fuel, and keep up with all the other stuff on the car...
And I don't just buy "well maintained" cars either... the LeBaron I talk about is red... well it was after I removed the layer of grime from it... the interior was grey... once I shampooed it three times... and once I washed down the engine 4 times, it looked like an engine. If my laptop hadn't gone belly up, I'd post a picture. But the engine is still going strong, and that's how I treated it, and the 3.0l chryslers are NOT known to be high mileage engines, most croak at 150k, if they make it that far.
I'm glad it worked out for you, but I'm happy with the way things are going for me, so I'm going to leave well enough alone. Tried and true method, change oil & filter 3k, and keep all other filters changed as needed, run good quality fuel, and keep up with all the other stuff on the car...
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Tammer in Philly
- Posts: 10719
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: CHI, IL
[QUOTE="Mless5"]Well, let me clarify something: under the oil cap it looks clean, I use 93 octane only, Lubro Moly Voll-Synthese Motor Oil as well as Jectron and MotorClean (both Lybro Moly) every month or so. Oil changes are regular at 3Ks with oil filter. [/QUOTE]
I'd say that routine sounds solid, keep it up. EXCEPT: is Jectron a FI cleaner? I wouldn't use those monthly, just in the last tank before oil changes, in case they contaminate the oil. Also, is your car chipped? If it's a stock low-comp engine you don't need premium (unless it pings), and running premium in a car that doesn't need it actually reduces combustion efficiency.
There is one additive that works but you must use it wisely! BG is a company known for their FI cleaner (BG-44k). They have an crankcase cleaner that actually works well, what you do is JUST BEFORE an oil change, dump it in the crankcase, drive 10 minutes and get hte motor good and hot, and drain it while it's good and hot. Then fill with your fresh oil and filter. It removed a lot of the valvetrain buildup on my motor with one treatment, didn't do a second. No ill effects. Tip from a 2002-driving buddy.
Other than that, you use good products on a good regime (hell, go to 5k mile oil changes), and your motor will thank you with long life. The limiting step becomes other morons on the road hurting your ride. :-/ Sorry, still a bit bitter.
-tammer
I'd say that routine sounds solid, keep it up. EXCEPT: is Jectron a FI cleaner? I wouldn't use those monthly, just in the last tank before oil changes, in case they contaminate the oil. Also, is your car chipped? If it's a stock low-comp engine you don't need premium (unless it pings), and running premium in a car that doesn't need it actually reduces combustion efficiency.
There is one additive that works but you must use it wisely! BG is a company known for their FI cleaner (BG-44k). They have an crankcase cleaner that actually works well, what you do is JUST BEFORE an oil change, dump it in the crankcase, drive 10 minutes and get hte motor good and hot, and drain it while it's good and hot. Then fill with your fresh oil and filter. It removed a lot of the valvetrain buildup on my motor with one treatment, didn't do a second. No ill effects. Tip from a 2002-driving buddy.
Other than that, you use good products on a good regime (hell, go to 5k mile oil changes), and your motor will thank you with long life. The limiting step becomes other morons on the road hurting your ride. :-/ Sorry, still a bit bitter.
-tammer
[QUOTE="Mless5"]Well, let me clarify something: under the oil cap it looks clean, I use 93 octane only, Lubro Moly Voll-Synthese Motor Oil as well as Jectron and MotorClean (both Lybro Moly) every month or so. Oil changes are regular at 3Ks with oil filter. [/QUOTE]
[QUOTE="Tammer in Philly"]I'd say that routine sounds solid, keep it up. EXCEPT: is Jectron a FI cleaner? I wouldn't use those monthly, just in the last tank before oil changes, in case they contaminate the oil. Also, is your car chipped? If it's a stock low-comp engine you don't need premium (unless it pings), and running premium in a car that doesn't need it actually reduces combustion efficiency.
There is one additive that works but you must use it wisely! BG is a company known for their FI cleaner (BG-44k). They have an crankcase cleaner that actually works well, what you do is JUST BEFORE an oil change, dump it in the crankcase, drive 10 minutes and get hte motor good and hot, and drain it while it's good and hot. Then fill with your fresh oil and filter. It removed a lot of the valvetrain buildup on my motor with one treatment, didn't do a second. No ill effects. Tip from a 2002-driving buddy.
Other than that, you use good products on a good regime (hell, go to 5k mile oil changes), and your motor will thank you with long life. The limiting step becomes other morons on the road hurting your ride. :-/ Sorry, still a bit bitter.
-tammer[/QUOTE]
well, jectron goes once in like 4-6 months. The car is not chipped.
[QUOTE="Tammer in Philly"]I'd say that routine sounds solid, keep it up. EXCEPT: is Jectron a FI cleaner? I wouldn't use those monthly, just in the last tank before oil changes, in case they contaminate the oil. Also, is your car chipped? If it's a stock low-comp engine you don't need premium (unless it pings), and running premium in a car that doesn't need it actually reduces combustion efficiency.
There is one additive that works but you must use it wisely! BG is a company known for their FI cleaner (BG-44k). They have an crankcase cleaner that actually works well, what you do is JUST BEFORE an oil change, dump it in the crankcase, drive 10 minutes and get hte motor good and hot, and drain it while it's good and hot. Then fill with your fresh oil and filter. It removed a lot of the valvetrain buildup on my motor with one treatment, didn't do a second. No ill effects. Tip from a 2002-driving buddy.
Other than that, you use good products on a good regime (hell, go to 5k mile oil changes), and your motor will thank you with long life. The limiting step becomes other morons on the road hurting your ride. :-/ Sorry, still a bit bitter.
-tammer[/QUOTE]
well, jectron goes once in like 4-6 months. The car is not chipped.
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dcbrewmeister
- Posts: 1444
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: San Antonio
- Contact:
[QUOTE="Tammer in Philly"]I'd say that routine sounds solid, keep it up. EXCEPT: is Jectron a FI cleaner?
-tammer[/QUOTE]
FUEL ADDITIVES Jectron Cleaner Combining the simplicity of an add-to-fuel treatment with the effectiveness of a professional product, Jectron Cleaner offers the possibility of enjoying all the benefits of modern fuel injection without any inconvenience. It cleans the injectors as the car is driven, restoring and maintaining that "new car" performance.
Yup...
-tammer[/QUOTE]
FUEL ADDITIVES Jectron Cleaner Combining the simplicity of an add-to-fuel treatment with the effectiveness of a professional product, Jectron Cleaner offers the possibility of enjoying all the benefits of modern fuel injection without any inconvenience. It cleans the injectors as the car is driven, restoring and maintaining that "new car" performance.
Yup...