Hello all.
Cranks but no start. Have spark.
Have replaced the FP relay with new, and verified that both the transfer and main fuel pumps are functioning by jumping the appropriate relay terminals as per the Bentley manual.
I can get the car to catch/start and run on starter fluid (I know--starter fluid=runs ultra lean=potential damage--so I didn't let it go for more than a second before I stopped it), can I ascertain that I'm not getting fuel to the right places up front?
I have ordered replacement hose and a new fuel filter, and they're not here yet.
Are there any other spots I should be checking out? Clogged/malfunctioning Fuel pressure regulator? Any other valves/etc. in the fuel system I should be checking while waiting for my parts to arrive?
Thank you all in advance for your advice.
**Also, I'm still desperately trying to get rid of my '86 535i parts car. Dropping my asking price again, to $500, any takers? Just search forums for my name for the post.
'85 535i--Yet another no start post--follow up edit
'85 535i--Yet another no start post--follow up edit
Last edited by kawgpz750 on Feb 17, 2009 1:49 PM, edited 1 time in total.
Okay, fuel line was bone dry and nothing came out upon cranking the engine over.
At this point, am going to visually inspect all fuel lines for kinks, crimps, and twists (sounds like fun!!). If there's no problems evident, any suggestions?
Am I stuck sitting on my thumbs until the new fuel filter and lines show up?
At this point, am going to visually inspect all fuel lines for kinks, crimps, and twists (sounds like fun!!). If there's no problems evident, any suggestions?
Am I stuck sitting on my thumbs until the new fuel filter and lines show up?
Uh, that's kind of high for a parts car. I just gave one away this afternoon. Parts cars aren't normally worth $500 unless something is very special about them, like maybe an "is" with good "is" bits. I know location makes a difference, and no hostility meant or implied, just don't expect much action at that price.**Also, I'm still desperately trying to get rid of my '86 535i parts car. Dropping my asking price again, to $500, any takers? Just search forums for my name for the post.
Yup. At least a half-tank of fresh gas. I had several friends and family ask me the same question...
Okay, so I pulled the fuel line at the beginning of the injector rail (for no reason other than it's easy to get to) and put the open end in a jar, then jumped the FP relay. Pumps both buzzed heartily, no gas in the jar.
Should this tell me that I need to replace my fuel filter (new one on the way) and fuel lines (also on the way)?
Also, what is the purpose of those small, in-line canister-looking things?
Realoem.com calls it a "connector piece", is it something that can get gunked up, and if so, can it be replaced with a standard straight fitting from the parts store?
Okay, so I pulled the fuel line at the beginning of the injector rail (for no reason other than it's easy to get to) and put the open end in a jar, then jumped the FP relay. Pumps both buzzed heartily, no gas in the jar.
Should this tell me that I need to replace my fuel filter (new one on the way) and fuel lines (also on the way)?
Also, what is the purpose of those small, in-line canister-looking things?
Realoem.com calls it a "connector piece", is it something that can get gunked up, and if so, can it be replaced with a standard straight fitting from the parts store?
Yank the filter out, put a piece of tube instead. Repeat what you did at the fuel rail.kawgpz750 wrote:Yup. At least a half-tank of fresh gas. I had several friends and family ask me the same question...
Okay, so I pulled the fuel line at the beginning of the injector rail (for no reason other than it's easy to get to) and put the open end in a jar, then jumped the FP relay. Pumps both buzzed heartily, no gas in the jar.
Should this tell me that I need to replace my fuel filter (new one on the way) and fuel lines (also on the way)?
Also, what is the purpose of those small, in-line canister-looking things?
Realoem.com calls it a "connector piece", is it something that can get gunked up, and if so, can it be replaced with a standard straight fitting from the parts store?
Follow up to old thread.
Cranks strong, Still no start.
Known (tested per Bentley as applicable)
Have spark
main FP good
transfer FP good
Fuel pressure 3.0 bar at the rail
new main and fuel pump relays
speed/reference sensors ohm out within spec
have at least one, possibly two known good ecu's
fuse 1 okay
half-tank (or more) fresh gas
smell of gas at exhaust after cranking over
Okay. On the day I replaced the old fuel pump with the functional one, got the car to run for close to four minutes, idle sounded fine, no skips, irregularities, etc. As I was smiling and beginning to pack up tools, it died. Resume cranks-but-no-start problem (GRRRR.) BTW when running was on the original ECU and original relays.
Since then, have checked relays and sensors. They test as they should.
Help?
Cranks strong, Still no start.
Known (tested per Bentley as applicable)
Have spark
main FP good
transfer FP good
Fuel pressure 3.0 bar at the rail
new main and fuel pump relays
speed/reference sensors ohm out within spec
have at least one, possibly two known good ecu's
fuse 1 okay
half-tank (or more) fresh gas
smell of gas at exhaust after cranking over
Okay. On the day I replaced the old fuel pump with the functional one, got the car to run for close to four minutes, idle sounded fine, no skips, irregularities, etc. As I was smiling and beginning to pack up tools, it died. Resume cranks-but-no-start problem (GRRRR.) BTW when running was on the original ECU and original relays.
Since then, have checked relays and sensors. They test as they should.
Help?
When the pump ran before you had no fuel flow? That sounded confusing and made me think the connections on the pickup unit inside the tank?
Now what you describe sounds like a fouled ignition somewhere. Maybe fouled plugs from all the trial and error. Have you pulled a plug to check. I've had cars get flooded and they run fine for a bit until it starts to heat up and all the excess fuel vapors foul it out. Maybe you fixed one problem and then another occured.
Now what you describe sounds like a fouled ignition somewhere. Maybe fouled plugs from all the trial and error. Have you pulled a plug to check. I've had cars get flooded and they run fine for a bit until it starts to heat up and all the excess fuel vapors foul it out. Maybe you fixed one problem and then another occured.
Last edited by tn535i on Feb 17, 2009 2:19 PM, edited 3 times in total.
Maybe the plugs are wet and need to dry. Like I said when accumulated fuel begins to vaporize as the engine warms it can foul out an engine that was running if it doesn't clear. Less likely with an injected engine, but if your plugs are wet it certainly sounds like it flooded. If you pull them and dry them I hope it should start again. First make sure you still have a good spark on all 6 before putting back. If you crank it and it spews fuel out the cylinders you can bet it flooded. Maybe pull the fuel relay and turn it over a bit till it seams dried back out.
If it ran fine for 4 minutes and then died, we are not talking about fouled plugs or wet plugs.
Unfortunately, you need to go back to square one and verify fuel and spark. Check for fuel at the rail and then check for spark. If it has fuel and spark, it should run.
How long had the used fuel pump been sitting before you installed it? Clean and re-tension the fuel pump fuse and check it for voltage flow across both ends (continuity.) A visual check of this style of fuse is not good enough for troubleshooting. Swap ECU's for the hell of it.
Unfortunately, you need to go back to square one and verify fuel and spark. Check for fuel at the rail and then check for spark. If it has fuel and spark, it should run.
How long had the used fuel pump been sitting before you installed it? Clean and re-tension the fuel pump fuse and check it for voltage flow across both ends (continuity.) A visual check of this style of fuse is not good enough for troubleshooting. Swap ECU's for the hell of it.
4 minutes sounds about right for a sluggish O2 sensor to come online at idle on a cold day and give such whacked out readings that the motor can't run. Disconnect the O2 sensor from the harness, disconnect the ECU for about 30 seconds, then plug the ECU back in and try to start it. If the motor runs and continues to run, you have (at the least) a bad O2 sensor.
Jeremy
Jeremy
-
Kyle in NO
- Posts: 17638
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: Nasty Orleans------> Batten-Rooehjch------>More Souther LA
GOOD NEWS! GOT HER RUNNING TODAY!
This morning, replaced coil/cap/rotor, two new reference sensors (I inadvertently cracked the connectors on the old ones), and disconnected the O2 sensor--thanks Jeremy!--and she fired right up, idled rough for thirty seconds then calmed down to the purr I was used to before she stopped.
Better still, she pulls even harder all the way up the redline than she did before she stopped running...ROCK!
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP EVERYBODY!
Only bummer is, while my car's been inop, I've been driving my roommate's E36 323is and now I realize just how much clutch and suspension play I'm running with right now.<sigh>I guess sometimes ignorance is bliss...
Well, one project to the next!
This morning, replaced coil/cap/rotor, two new reference sensors (I inadvertently cracked the connectors on the old ones), and disconnected the O2 sensor--thanks Jeremy!--and she fired right up, idled rough for thirty seconds then calmed down to the purr I was used to before she stopped.
Better still, she pulls even harder all the way up the redline than she did before she stopped running...ROCK!
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP EVERYBODY!
Only bummer is, while my car's been inop, I've been driving my roommate's E36 323is and now I realize just how much clutch and suspension play I'm running with right now.<sigh>I guess sometimes ignorance is bliss...
Well, one project to the next!