won't start-how do I...

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veggigolf
Posts: 42
Joined: May 14, 2008
Location: Asheville, NC

won't start-how do I...

Post by veggigolf »

My car was parked facing upward on a hill and wouldn't start. It's low on fuel, so I pulled up to a flat surface, and it still won't start. Charged the battery overnight, still no start after lots and lots of cranking. It wasn't that cold out (around 55 I think) and didn't even hint at a fire. I haven't been able to crack the injector nuts to see if there is decent pressure due to close proximity to other parts.

I read in another thread to prime the fuel filter and check the pressure from the in-tank pump?

At this point it doesn't sound that glow plugs are a problem, more like fuel delivery. What is the best way to check the in-tank fuel pump and then the injection pump?

Thanks to all for your help!
bibaboon
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Location: new york

Post by bibaboon »

not sure on the injection pump but I think you can rig a battery up to your in-tank pump and see if its operating...While I myself have never done it to a BMW, I have done thus to a Volvo with an in-tank pump...You should likely check all your electrical and fuses also maybe you are just not getting any juice to something...

Or better yet wait until someone else responds because though I would like to help I 'd easily admit I'm a novice at car mechanics...But also I do know, novice or otherwise, its always a dangerous thing to let your fule go very low in your tank. .
best to keep it half full in general....

good luck getting it going
bibaboon
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Location: new york

Post by bibaboon »

p.s

You should wait to hear from someone else...
I just realized i don't want to recommend something that can cause a spark if done improperly...too close to the gas in the tank to experiment with this...

I do know with my Volvo you can hear the in-tank pump working if you crank and put your ear to where you normally
fill the tank...
Shawn D.
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Post by Shawn D. »

bibaboon wrote:not sure on the injection pump but I think you can rig a battery up to your in-tank pump and see if its operating...While I myself have never done it to a BMW, I have done thus to a Volvo with an in-tank pump...You should likely check all your electrical and fuses also maybe you are just not getting any juice to something...
The battery is already "rigged" to the in-tank pump via the wiring harness. You can simply jump the terminals at the relay to run the pump without the engine being on. Then you can check the voltage at the pumps, as well as checking to see if they're running.
bibaboon wrote:But also I do know, novice or otherwise, its always a dangerous thing to let your fule go very low in your tank. .
best to keep it half full in general...
Keeping it at least half full "in general" is silly -- there's no need to do that. As long as you're not driving it dozens of miles each time after the low-warning-light comes on, there's no "danger."
bibaboon
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Location: new york

Post by bibaboon »

okay shawn d
thanks for improving veggie's mechanics of golf
hopefully its love e28 from here....
;)
veggigolf
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Joined: May 14, 2008
Location: Asheville, NC

Post by veggigolf »

Okay, I had my husband turn the key to engage the glow plugs and checked the voltage at the two wiring harnesses at the tank, because I wasn't sure which one was for the pump (one has 2 wires, the other has 3) and which one was for the fuel gauge. Both wiring connectors had voltage at "run" and no voltage at "off."

So that rules out wiring problems up to that point. I removed the nut on the fuel filter to see if any fuel or air came out of the supply fuel hose. With the key on "run" I got no fuel or air. Is it safe to assume that the in-tank fuel pump is dead, or there is a wiring problem inside the tank?
veggigolf
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Location: Asheville, NC

Post by veggigolf »

Oh yeah, it's probably worth stating in this thread (for the benefit of future readers who may have this same problem) that in a diesel car, you cannot ignite the fuel with a spark. That's why diesels have such high compression ratios; because spark plugs do no good. Even so, the best way to bypass the relay would be at the relay, but you can jump a wire from Battery + to the pump + and see what you get.
veggigolf
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Location: Asheville, NC

Post by veggigolf »

The in-tank pump is dead. I took it out, applied voltage from battery and got absolutely nothing. Yay, I found the problem I thought, until I started looking for a replacement pump. ARGH! There are none to be had from car-part.com anywhere in the US.

I've priced a new unit and Bavarian Auto has the pump/sending unit assy for $570! :shock:

This cursed little piece of machinery is driving me into an early grave! I'm determined to get a replacement pump for under $100. There are TONS of pumps available for 535's and 528e's. They look exactly like the pump that came out of my car. Maybe the part number is the same-a couple of recyclers are checking on that and hopefully will call me back tomorrow. Even if the part # is different, shouldn't a pump that pumps gasoline pump diesel okay? As long as it fits in the tank properly, I think it will work. Any thoughts?
natac
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Location: Marin County, CA

Post by natac »

The part numbers for US in-tank pumps are different for gas and diesel cars. I think the difference is in the filter on the pump pickup. Interestingly enough, Euro cars use the same pump for gas and diesel cars, but the Euro pump won't fit in a US tank.
Shawn D.
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Post by Shawn D. »

I'd say a gas in-tank pump should work fine, but it doesn't provide much pressure and doesn't hurt gas engine performance much if it's not working, UNLESS it's hot out and there's vapor lock. Thus, since diesel doesn't vapor lock, I'd say it's not strictly necessary for your car to have it. I'd look at the rubber lines near the tank to see if they're cracked and letting air in as the fuel comes out of the tank at the top of the "hill" -- that would definitely cause a large air bubble.
gyveri
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Joined: Jun 10, 2008

Post by gyveri »

There's a VW pump that'll replace the original quite nicely. It's VW part # 191 906 092G. I got mine from parts-on-line.net for about $60.

--Ian
altus22
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Location: Norfolk, VA

Post by altus22 »

Folks use the gas version of the pump all the time and say it works fine. All you need is a lift pump, so any low pressure aftermarket diesel compatible pump should work fine. The WVO folks seem to like the Walbro FRB-5 which is the replacement for the 6065. It is compatible with biodiesel too!
TheHeat
Posts: 15
Joined: Dec 09, 2008
Location: NOVA

Post by TheHeat »

you can use an inline pump as well. even if its temporary it will suck through the intank pump no problem. the only reason the 524 has a lift pump is to prevent airlocking. it will run without a lift pump. thats what happened to you and you cant reprime the system without a pump. you can prime the fuel system with a hand held vacuum pump if need be. try advance auto parts they sell a pump for the 524 pretty cheap and you can just put it in any softline and hook it up to the stock wiring. also if you want to jump power to the pump you can just supply power to the fuse.
TheHeat
Posts: 15
Joined: Dec 09, 2008
Location: NOVA

Post by TheHeat »

also i wouldnt use a gas pump. it will fail. they have completely different types of seals and gas/diesel corrode things completely differently.
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