Where and how to start?

Finally, a home for all you 524td oil burners out there.
Post Reply
seabiscuit
Posts: 45
Joined: May 05, 2007

Where and how to start?

Post by seabiscuit »

Alright, I am literally knocking on wood as I type this, but "so far, so good." As of now, I have driven my 524td on the interstate two time for over an hour without a problem. I do not intend on driving it again until I do the necessary maintainence that one does on a used car. It needs an oil change. I want to get a transmission flush and filter change. Power steering is not being utilized, so no need to fill the fluid :lol: .

My question is, and keep in mind that I am on a limited budget, what do you guys recommend me doing to get an 85 524td going. I am not trying to "trick it out," in fact if I ever saw someone try to put a body kit on this car, I would kill them.

It has a lot of vegetable oil conversion components still under the hood, so as if my inexperience with diesel and bmws wasn't hard enough to overcome, I have to figure out what is needed and not needed.

I really dont know how/where to start. Obviously, the oil is the biggest concern. How hard is it to change the oil/oil filters on these cars? Any suggestions from previous experience?

And I noticed the air filter was disgusting, and there is what appears to be oil in the air filter housing. I forgot what that means, but I know its not good. What should I do?
Kyle in NO
Posts: 17638
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Nasty Orleans------> Batten-Rooehjch------>More Souther LA

Post by Kyle in NO »

CHANGE THE TIMING BELT NOW! They do break, and your engine will be toast. Spend the $100 or so dollars and do it right with a new water pump and idler pulley while you are at it. Be forewarned that you will need special tools to do it too.

The oil changes are easy, but the filter itself is nearly $20. Use a good quality diesel-specific oil, I recommend 10W40.After that, make sure all of your hoses and gaskets are up to snuff. Chances are, everything that can seep oil on it is seeping. A leak free engine is a happy one. Get all of that done then worry about sprucing it up! That will keep you busy for a while (think months or years).
dez528e
Posts: 192
Joined: Apr 28, 2007
Location: Austin TX
Contact:

Post by dez528e »

Unless the trans fluid is bad/old, you really don't need to change it.

Never get the transmission "flushed" through an oil change place that uses those machines. I can't tell you how many transmissions my dad had to replace at his shop due to them being flushed. Customers had flushes done and the transmissions would start slipping after about 5,000 miles.

Just drop the pan, drain the fluid and replace the filter and gasket...if you can't get a gasket, orange silicone works.
JoshInAtlanta
Posts: 4434
Joined: Apr 22, 2006
Location: Holly Springs, GA

Post by JoshInAtlanta »

Here's a How-To I wrote up last year on the oil change. It's a little different then the gas-powered E28s since the filter is under the car. Very simple and straight-forward, however.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=24622
seabiscuit
Posts: 45
Joined: May 05, 2007

Post by seabiscuit »

Kyle in NO wrote:CHANGE THE TIMING BELT NOW! They do break, and your engine will be toast. Spend the $100 or so dollars and do it right with a new water pump and idler pulley while you are at it. Be forewarned that you will need special tools to do it too.

The oil changes are easy, but the filter itself is nearly $20. Use a good quality diesel-specific oil, I recommend 10W40.After that, make sure all of your hoses and gaskets are up to snuff. Chances are, everything that can seep oil on it is seeping. A leak free engine is a happy one. Get all of that done then worry about sprucing it up! That will keep you busy for a while (think months or years).
Naturally, I have some questions. They are not intended to undermind, but rather genuine curiousity.

Where is the best place to get the timing belt?

I dont see much sense in spending money on a part that isn't broken. I am a college student, a water pump can feed me for a month.

How does one go about checking all of the gaskets?

I appreciate it though
Joe in FL
Posts: 652
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Palm Beach Gardens, FL

Post by Joe in FL »

If the timing belt breaks, you'll have to replace much more than just the belt. And survive on Ramen noodles for a year or two. It's $100 very well spent.
seabiscuit
Posts: 45
Joined: May 05, 2007

Post by seabiscuit »

oh i know that much. I was talking about the water pump. If a water pump breaks, I will notice my temp gauge go up and stop the car. And then notice the green waterfall pouring out of my car.

Timing belt will be replaced very very soon.
ISO_524td
Posts: 152
Joined: Jul 18, 2006
Location: Escondido, CA

Post by ISO_524td »

I will notice my temp gauge go up and stop the car. And then notice the green waterfall pouring out of my car.
That's if you're lucky enough to be so observant. Permanent damage to the cylinder head and/or cylinder bore(s) could have happened by then. I'm not guessing here....I personally know of these examples. Unfortunately, the cylinder head is especially at risk given their history of problems.
seabiscuit
Posts: 45
Joined: May 05, 2007

Post by seabiscuit »

good point.

Are the heads on these cars really that fragile? Because I over heated the first day i bought the car, and I really hope I dont have to replace mine. And if I do, how much is that going to run me (that is, if they cannot be reworked by a machine shop)
Kyle in NO
Posts: 17638
Joined: Feb 12, 2006
Location: Nasty Orleans------> Batten-Rooehjch------>More Souther LA

Post by Kyle in NO »

If you can find a used one that isn't cracked (needle in a haystack), maybe a couple hundred bucks plus resurfacing. IF not, you can score a good used engine for less than the cost of a new cylinder head...

Also, have fun changing out that timing belt again a second time when you water pump goes bad, since you didn't take care of it up front. You'll probably have to remove and reinstall it again to remove the pump. You will then need a new belt too because they are not designed to be reinstalled after removal...So just do it right the first time. They are about $65.00.
seabiscuit
Posts: 45
Joined: May 05, 2007

Post by seabiscuit »

fair enough. I appreciate it guys. I am just the kind of person who doesnt do something just because someone says to. If it doesnt make sense to me, then I need to know why. I also just really want to understand this car.

Looks like I am in the right place to do just that.
ronald
Posts: 20
Joined: Nov 06, 2007
Location: Sauk Rapids, MN
Contact:

Oil in oil filter housing

Post by ronald »

And I noticed the air filter was disgusting, and there is what appears to be oil in the air filter housing. I forgot what that means, but I know its not good. What should I do?
I'm new to BMWs & diesels also and having this oil issue too. Can anyone answer this question? thanks in advance
ISO_524td
Posts: 152
Joined: Jul 18, 2006
Location: Escondido, CA

Post by ISO_524td »

This is usually caused by excessive blowby from the crankcase breather tube. There are several reasons why this can occur, some of which are the following:

-Worn piston rings
-blown headgasket
-cracked head
-overfilled oil level

You might want to try using heavier oil or some of the ring sealer products like Restore or Lucas oil treatment. However, I m not sure how well they would work. I had this problem and it was caused by a failing headgasket.
Post Reply