How to clean corrosion from the fuse contact points?

[Gene in NC]

How to clean corrosion from the fuse contact points in the fuse box? One of those NLA ball point "ink pencils with ink eraser" sounds like the trick but couldn't find one. Deoxit will help to dissolve but abrasion still needed.

Used formed pencil eraser and Stabilant to move speedo/tach from no op to aprox 50% or correct reading. Understand that work on grounds prob need to get to 100%.

Interesting that knee jerk replacement of cluster did not apply, or I assume did not apply.

[doug]

careful ... Deoxit is flammable. Corrosion-induced high resistance points get hot especially on those 15+ amp circuits. Heat plus flammable liquids equals ... FIRE! Not that I would know this from personal experience.

[Geerhed]

For heavy corrosion I disconnect the battery and hit the contacts with a small wire brush (looks like a toothbrush, available in the "detailing" section of your auto parts store).

Step one (disconnecting the battery) is very important in this case - you will definitely create a circuit where none was intended with that little wire brush. As others have said: 'don't ask me how I know.'

Good luck.

[jmc1590]

I've found a variable speed dremel works well. Use the small steel wire brush.

[ricky-b]

I've been using the CRC brand electronic cleaner. It should help to loosen up the corrosion.
Dries in about a second flat and leaves zero residue.
But I guess if a Dremel with a wire wheel dos'nt work,
nothin' will!

[BRRV]

I use a Dremel, I have one of the small portables. I use it on the lower setting and use a round abrasive "knob" if I can find one, as the brush wheels have a tendency to grab occassionally, and I dont want to bend or damage one of these ancient fuse connectors.

OT: Someone should develop and market a modern fuse box replacement for these cars - I wonder if the box out of an E30 could be utilized???? *pondering*

I also use a small brass brush from time to time, brass being softer than other metals.

Lastly, I like to coat exposed grounds and especially battery leads with Wurth CU800.

[ricky-b]

I wonder if the box out of an E30 could be utilized???? *pondering*

Great idea
I'm going to look into that.
Under my brake light fuse contacts it looks like the plastic has melted a bit.
I think it mighnt be due to the PO of the car using some kind of ultra high wattage bulbs that I took out.
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[Blue Shadow]

DeOxit is not flammable. check the MSDS, available in this list
Now the D5S contains flammable carrier gases which include propane and isobutane, but this stuff is gone in seconds.
So if the battery is disconnected all should be good for a thorough cleaning of the fuse holders.

Good to tell folks to be careful with DeOxit, but we need to keep from going too far.

I used DeOxit and the dremel wire wheel to do all of mine.

[John in VA]

Won't attacking the metal pieces with the wire brush at speed remove the finish of the metal that was supposed to be there? I thought Rod told me that.

[a]

IIRC, the contacts are tinned brass . If you buff off the the tin, then you will create a corrosion area. That"s why stuff is tinned. It resists corrosion. (I say this only after wirebrushing fuse 6 until I exposed the core metal.) I have this goop for protecting connections. Its basically grease, but if it can prevent aluminum from oxidizing, i'tll work jess fine on brass. I'd stick with slower gentler ministrations.

The best way to restore the fusebox is to replace it with a brand new fuse box. They may still be available. The fuse box + relays look brand spanking new on this super eta I was given.. The rest of the car is showing wear and tear . But the fuse box is perfect. Looks about a yr old.

[Mike W.]

IIRC, the contacts are tinned brass

I could be wrong, but I think they are coated steel, they seem too springy to me to be brass. But regardless, I think the key is to clean them with something relatively mild, like a small wire brush by hand, or even a scotchbrite pad, but not a Dremmel, I think you are taking off too much with that, even just with the wire brush, let alone the grinding tool.

In case you see the glass fuse replacements, don't use them, they are not a good solution. The surface doesn't seem particularly good, and I've had the solder inside them melt on fan application, so the fuse failed, even though the fuse link inside was still good! Maddening, since the fuse looked good and was not in fact "blown". And I had several do that, it wasn't just a one off fluke, and the funky factory type fuses worked much better in that location, in spite of what looked like a better idea.

[jmc1590]

If you buff off the the tin, then you will create a corrosion area.

But I've already got an oxidation / corrosion area, hense the Dremel.

All kidding aside, when my fuse box connections became unreliable (Hit a bump, lose a circuit. Hit another, get one back!) I started looking at what could be done.

I started with crocus cloth, scotch pads, contact cleaner (albeit not De-Oxit), and then the Dremel. After each step I found minor improvements (looks like that worked.. bump .. not.) After using the Dremel, it appears that my electrical gremlins are gone, for the moment.

I do agree that removing the protective layer is not a good idea, if that's where you stop. As was mentioned previously, di-electric grease does an excellent job at preventing new corrosion. As does cold galvanizing paint. (I've only used spray galv at work for metal projects. Manufacture claim it's conductive.)

I like the idea of replacing the fuse box, as both of mine have melted plastic at/near #14. I suppose given enough time and effort, retro fitting an E30 or E23 box could work.