Oil Pan Question

[glowell222]

So a few months ago I replaced my oil pan gasket-I had a small, continuous oil leak. When I reassemble, I torqued all the bolts to the appropriate spec. I noticed a few weeks ago another leak. I finally get the car on the MaxJax and take a look-nearly all of the oil pan bolts are loose-such as finger tight. I recall that, when I went to replace the oil pan gasket, alot of the bolts were not tight at all. I didn't think about it, as the gasket was just a bunch of cracked, brittle pieces and couldn't have been offering up much in the way of an effective seal.

I plan to use a thread locker and re-tighten all of the bolts, one at a time. Any suggestions or comments? Thanks.

[SlickDizzy]

IIRC the torque spec is in inch-lbs to prevent gasket deformation (during my B35 build I just mindlessly torqued up the pan by feeling once and ruined the gasket like a dumbass, and had to do it over again with a new gasket), so they will feel less tight than heavier duty fasteners, but they should not be finger tight.

Are all of the wave washers in good shape? I bought a bag and replaced all of mine as a few were cracked, if the washers are in bad shape it may not hold torque.

[Mike W.]

They do seem to loosen up for some reason, although not usually to the degree you're seeing. Locktite is good, as is a paper gasket. The cork ones seem to crack and leak as you're seeing, the paper seem to hold up much better.

[dsmith]

I use Permatex 3 on the gasket. I soak all of the bolts in gas and wire brush them until super clean. Reassemble with blue loctite. I use a 1/4” torque wrench to properly torque these bolts and valve covers. Easy to over tighten low torque fasteners.

[glowell222]

Thanks everyone. I will take your suggestions, and use the blue loctite as well as replace the washers.

I went with the paper gasket as well.