Centerlink replacing advice

E28 technical advice asked and given! Troubleshooting, modifications and more.
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BDKawey
Posts: 1380
Joined: Sep 15, 2011
Location: Canton, Ohio

Centerlink replacing advice

Post by BDKawey »

So after I went to get an alignment they charged me 20 dollars to tell me my centerlink is bad because of the verticle play. I already have a replacement and have rented a pickle fork set. Just looking for any tips on what exactly to do to avoid damaging the steering box and anything else. Thanks in advance.
ahab
Posts: 6224
Joined: Jun 11, 2006
Location: Chalfont, PA

Post by ahab »

You should really get a tie rod separator. While ok for the pitman and idler since you're replacing the center link, a pickle fork will tear up the boots of the tie rod ends. You might want to consider replacing the idler arm as well if you don't know the age.
BDKawey
Posts: 1380
Joined: Sep 15, 2011
Location: Canton, Ohio

Post by BDKawey »

are there any graphs lurking around that i need to see?
L_N_Love
Posts: 4106
Joined: Jun 19, 2008
Location: Richmond VA

Post by L_N_Love »

It is an easy job. It is hard not to damage the boots on old parts connected to the center link. Just do a new center link and new tie rods at the same time. You will be glad that you did.
1st 5er
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Joined: Jun 13, 2008
Location: Cypress
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Post by 1st 5er »

I'd add to the above that you consider replacing it all if you're unaware of the other part's history.
stevemd
Posts: 18
Joined: May 17, 2012
Location: Montgomery County, Maryland

Post by stevemd »

Made by Lisle and I thought Old Forge, I have one, works great w/o damaging parts.

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Also another somewhat like this one, works great in restricted access.
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davintosh
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Location: Sioux Falls, SD
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Post by davintosh »

If you've got an Advance Auto near you, they'll lend you the tools for free (you 'pay' for them when you take them home, but get a full refund when you bring them back.) Lots of other stores have similar loaner programs. The set I borrowed to swap out the tie rods on my e32 had both of the tools stevemd pictured above; I only needed the bottom one.

When getting the things off, it's best to loosen the nuts on the ball joints but don't take the nut all the way off. That way the lever can push against the nut and not the threaded end of the ball joint, which can seriously mess with the threads and make it difficult to get the nut back on.

And what Sherman (1st 5er) is true as well; if you're not sure when the parts were replaced, it might not hurt to replace some other things while you're there. Replacing the Pitman isn't likely necessary, but the idler arm and bushing are relatively cheap, and really easy to replace while you're doing the center link. And this would be a great time to do the tie rods as well. But if the boots are still intact on the tie rods, and the threads on them don't appear to be rusty, I wouldn't bother.

And when ordering parts, go for Meyle or Lemfoerder; many of the other parts are extremely inferior to those two, and while you'll save some money on them, you'll end up doing the job much sooner than if you went with the top dogs.

I replaced the center link on my e32 a while back but didn't bother with the tie rods; took it in for an alignment, and the guy couldn't get the adjuster on one of them loose, so had to replace one anyway. No idea what brand it was, but I ended up replacing both of them a year later because the ball joint failed on the 'new' one. Lemfoerder is on there now.
BDKawey
Posts: 1380
Joined: Sep 15, 2011
Location: Canton, Ohio

Post by BDKawey »

I got the new centerlink on but i probably will replace the inner tie rods. The boots ripped and the oil leaked out so i suppose they're junk now anyway.
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