MyE28.com

Does anyone know if there has been a write-up on how to change shift linkage bushings? I have researched the site and found a couple things about dropping the transmision and so on. I would do this but in my garage I don't really have the means and it might be over my head.

Anything helps, thanks Eric.

You can simply slightly remove the tranny mount bolts, lowering the transmission to gain easier access to the shift linkage. I have personally changed my bushing's and parts without moving the transmission.

You can replace any and all of the linkage parts without pulling the tranny. Not necessarily easily, but doable. Skinny hands and arms help.

I guess Ill just jack up the front end this weeked, slide under there and see what I can see. I have never changed bushings like this on any car so its all new too me. I'm sure I can figure it out just lookin for tips.

Thanks so far guys

i did it on my e30 using the same method, i'm sure it's not very different. i did need to order new mounting bolts for the tranny mount subframe. mine were very rusty. one thing is for sure getting that spongy thing in there is bitch when you don't have much room.

Your car will have a sheet metal console I believe. If I were you, I'd drop the exhaust and drive shaft. Next unbolt the console from the back of the trans (2 bolts), disconnect the selector shaft and remove the shifter and linkage as a unit. This makes it much much easier to replace the parts in the linkage. Then you can bolt it back up as a unit.

EZE84WIP wrote:I guess Ill just jack up the front end this weeked, slide under there and see what I can see. I have never changed bushings like this on any car so its all new too me. I'm sure I can figure it out just lookin for tips.

Thanks so far guys

I have an 84 533 and actually removed my entire shifter plate without touching tranny.
1) After jacking up the car, remove the shifter linakge circlip from under the car and disconnect the linakge rod from the shifter.
2) Remove the two allen bolts (that hold the shifter plate to the tranny) from the tranny using an extension and knuckle for the allen fitting.
3) Pull the rubber stop bushing out to the plate and slide the whole shifter plate around the drive shaft and out of the tranny tunnel.
4) Clean the plate, note the position of the bushings, then remove the old bushings.
5) Replace with new mounting bushings and position correctly for reinstallation.
6) Before reinstalling shifter plate, install new rubber stop bushing in shifter plate (pull that rubber tip through the plate).
7) Slide the plate back around the drive shaft and into position.
8) Put some medium thread lock on the allen bolt threads.
9) Carefully, BY HAND, start the allen bolts into the tranny.
10) Tighten the tranny mounting bolts to proper torque (25#?)
11) Pull the other side of the rubber stop through the bottom hole. Plate is now secure.
12) Replace the shifter bushings (from the top side) shifter plate cup -bottom bushing, and top bushing (optional).
12a) If installing top bushing on shifter ball, it will be necessary to remove the spring clip that keeps the top and bottom halves of shifter assembly together. Very small flat screw driver will get under the clip - pull the shifter apart, replace top plastic bushing, reconnect shifter halves. Keep pieces in same order as original!
13) Reinstall shifter, insert rod and attach circlip.
14) Reinstall rubber boot and insulation shifter boot.
Enjoy NEW CAR feeling. You'll wish you did this sooner.

On a 85+ 535, removing the shorter shifter plate is not this easy.

Sweet!! Thanks JDM thats what I was looking for. Awesome.

The Pelican Parts tech articles are by far the best I've seen, with complete and really detailed photos
Replacing BMW Shift Bushings
All tech articles

If you have a shifter plate instead of the rod just reference RealOEM for the parts needed, but 90% of the process would be the same.

Excerpts:

+1^^^^

Note that the Pelican Parts picitures are for the newer style shifter from 86 on I believe. Only the top shifter bushing is the same, the rest is totally different. You have a 533 with the larger shifter plate. The Pelican Parts instructions will be misleading - I've done both and just did my 84 533. The bottom shifter cup bushing is different and the plate bushings and allen bolts are totally different, as is the rear rubber stop.

Buy all the wear parts first.

Bav Auto sells a short shifter parts kit for about $29 and it contains the shifter plate bushings and the bottom plastic "cup" bushing. Those three pieces (the wear parts as mentioned above) will make 95% of the difference. You will be amazed at how tight your gear selector becomes.

Assuming it uses a shifter plate, buy:

25-11-7-501-309: Shift Rod Joint Manual Transmission (~$16)


23-41-1-466-134: Dowel Pin for Shift Rod Joint (~$0.50)


25-11-1-203-682: Bushing (Tension Bushing) for Shift Rod Coupling (~$1.20)


25-11-1-434-194: Bushing for Shift Rod Coupling (~$1)


25-11-1-208-580: Shift Tower Mount x 2 (~$10 each)


25-11-1-204-422: Buffer Stop for Shift Tower (~$7)


23-41-1-466-110: Ball Cup Bushing for Shift Lever Upper (~$9)


25-11-1-207-744: Ball Cup Bushing for Shift Lever Lower ($2)


... and probably a few of those spacers and circlips just to be sure.

Of course, double-check RealOEM first on what applies to your VIN.

In its simplicity, I think this thread is FAQ worthy for future reference.

Replaced my shifter bushings in my 86 535i last night drive it home about 20 mins away and today drive into town to get some food and afterwards my car wouldn't go into 1st or 3rd gear. Anyone had this problem before

Mcbode30 wrote:Replaced my shifter bushings in my 86 535i last night drive it home about 20 mins away and today drive into town to get some food and afterwards my car wouldn't go into 1st or 3rd gear. Anyone had this problem before

Check that your clips haven't fallen off either end of the shift rod. It might be trying to back out of the bottom of the shifter. Whatever it is should be visually obvious. I have replaced several of both types of linkages and never had an issue. If it was good before and after, then got worse fast, then I would suspect installation error first, so recheck all of your work.

Also make sure to use locktite when replacing the 2 bolts that hold the plate to the tranny. These 2 allen headed bolts have a bad habit of backing out. ( I had it happen, kind of scary to loose 2 and 4th.


Andy