BMW E28 5 Series Enthusiast Community
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Let me know if you do. I am not 100% on the car, but sent the guy some questions and hoping for a response.. I hope it's still for sale.. It's a good price if it is as nice of a car as described and pictured.. I won't be back to Florida till June 15th so I won't be able to make a real decisions till then..PMcD wrote:If I end up going to Chicago in a few days I might be able to check it out for ya. I'll let you know.
If the car is still around after the 15th, I might give this guy a call.. Do you know how much he charges?Adam W in MN wrote:If you want a pre-purchase inspection from a master/guru, call Ben Thongsai.
Ben Thongsai
B & D Automotive
(708) 450-0300- shop
No idea, it depends on the car and what you want him to check for. You'll need to call him and tell him about the car and what you're looking to find out. His weekends are tight now with summer and autocross and track event season.BMWgiant wrote: If the car is still around after the 15th, I might give this guy a call.. Do you know how much he charges?
This sounds great.. Although I can't make any calls till I am back in the states.. There is a significant time difference and it becomes too much of issue to be able to make the call suitable to both our schedules.. I did send him a message however and hoping to hear a response soon..mitch wrote:I know the seller (Eric) through Patrick McHugh. He's a true BMW enthusiast with quite a stable of well maintained BMW's (not to mention a garage set up any of us would die for). If you're in the market for this car, this is one to jump on.
I could make time this weekend to go check it out, but honestly I'd trust this seller's POV on the car more than my own.
If I were you I'd contact the seller directly and discuss condition, etc. Contact Patrick McHugh with more questions on the seller - I believe he will vouch for him.
I'd like to know that as well.. I'm already trying to think of what wheels I'd put on the car.. I might just do a direct swap with my E28's wheels.. If this whole thing actually goes down..BMWCCA2 wrote:Who stole the 15" style-5 wheels it came with??
Ha! Not sure if you're serious or not about getting scooped by Patrick, but I'm guessing this was in the works before you posted about the car here...BMWgiant wrote:Argh.. That would be my luck.. The guy I go to, to get a reference from, buys the car from under me (on my birthday now less)!
Oh well, I am at a disadvantage anyway, being in Europe and all.. If you know of any other interesting toys for sale in nice condition for that price range, please send me or post a link!
Driving the car is less important then having it inspected, for the simple reason that if it is inspected and found to be mechanically sound in all material respects, then you know it will drive fine for an e32 735i.BMWgiant wrote:I am hoping that I am going to be the one to scoop it up.. I am still interested.. So if anybody can inspect the car for me, please let me know!
At least Ben will give it a thumbs up since it isn't an EML car!rlomba8204 wrote: As far as the charge for an inspection goes, it should be for a few hours of the tech's time. Whatever that costs, it costs -- it is money well spent, especially with a tech of Ben's knowledge and experience.
Because, as we all know, the car we have is, by definition, the best car in the world. 
That is one issue that I am very concerned about.. And the only thing making me weary about the car..Patrick McHugh wrote:The only thing i'd look for on one of Eric's cars is Rust which in Chicagoland is literally uncontrollable. Especially the bottoms of the doors.
If you are familiar with the rust that typically emerges on the door bottoms of E32s, E34s, and even E36s, then you will understand the rust issue. I first addressed the issue last summer: I cleaned up the spots of rust, I used a rust arrestor (in retrospect, not the ideal one), and I simply brush-painted the few rust spots with some Rustoleum silver paint (which explains the slight paint-color mismatch that is evident in the pictures, which were taken last summer). I also replaced all four door-bottom moldings. Now, one year later, it is clear to me that I should have used POR-15 to arrest the rust. I have obtained that product, and I also have obtained the correct paint to be applied. From your perspective, the good news is that you will be able to see the location and extent of each of the spots where rust is emerging, from the updated pictures now also available.
I don't really have a sense of how long the car will be on the market. As I mentioned, it has been listed for only a week and a half. I exchanged e-mails with one other interested buyer last weekend. He has decided to pass, as he is under the mistaken notion that addressing the rust would require a significant expenditure. He is incorrect: the issue is a bit of time only -- certainly not a lot of money. Although the rust looks a bit ugly in the new pictures, I should note that it is clearly not rusted through -- we're basically talking about corrosion. There is only one very small hole in the metal, and that is on the lip of the right rear wheel well.
Pictures of repair a year ago arrested and treated:Yes, I have the POR-15, the spray paint to match the body color, the clear coat spray paint, and even some masking material. I would include that with the sale.
Wow, that is a beautiful car.. Especially in Red, you don't see those too often! Thanks for the advice on the car.. I am seriously interested at this point.. As long as I can get some feedback on the rust issue..c_spargo wrote:I am a STRONG advocate of these cars.
FYI - those ARE the original wheels for that car.
Here's my 03/90 when I bought it sporting the same wheels.
There is nothing unclear about the above statement, period, end of story. More detail than that will require a physical inspection of the car by a knowledgeable bodyman.rlomba8204 wrote: So the question is what do you want from the car? Do you want to do another 100k miles without rust issues? If so, you'll need a competent bodyshop to properly remediate the issue. If, however, you are looking for a nice car to drive for the next 3 or 4 years, what the seller has done is probably enough to slow the spread of the rust so that it is a non-issue. (emphasis added)
Okay thank you, again. I read that and I came up with new questions, which is how I responded.. But you seem to have missed it as you usually do.rlomba8204 wrote:This is why I question my sanity in responding to your posts. Let's re-read what I wrote above. Here it is again, the relevant portion:
There is nothing unclear about the above statement, period, end of story. More detail than that will require a physical inspection of the car by a knowledgeable bodyman.rlomba8204 wrote: So the question is what do you want from the car? Do you want to do another 100k miles without rust issues? If so, you'll need a competent bodyshop to properly remediate the issue. If, however, you are looking for a nice car to drive for the next 3 or 4 years, what the seller has done is probably enough to slow the spread of the rust so that it is a non-issue. (emphasis added)
Thanks for the heads-up. I need an imbecile like you to critique my reading comprehension about as much as I need an additional hole in my head.BMWgiant wrote: Okay thank you, again. I read that and I came up with new questions, which is how I responded.. But you seem to have missed it as you usually do.
Then let's look at your question in response to my above answer. Again, bongs down:rlomba8204 wrote:So the question is what do you want from the car? Do you want to do another 100k miles without rust issues? If so, you'll need a competent bodyshop to properly remediate the issue. If, however, you are looking for a nice car to drive for the next 3 or 4 years, what the seller has done is probably enough to slow the spread of the rust so that it is a non-issue.
Now, reconsider whether I answered that question. (Hint: "Do you want to do another 100k miles without rust issues? If so, you'll need a competent bodyshop to properly remediate the issue.")BMWgiant wrote:
My question is, will the procedure that he explained and materials that he will provide slow down this rust issue further, to a point that if I DID want to own the car for 10 years, that my door won't be falling off? I know that he arrested and treated the rust, but how much do I need to worry that after a year, it is showing as much as it is already . . .
You're right, I misspoke. We sold so many of hte 5-speeds in that car and put so many cross-spoke wheels on them my memory thought that's how they came. They were only standard that year on the 750iL and the 535i.c_spargo wrote:FYI - those ARE the original wheels for that car.
Chill the fuck out man.. Who are you to tell me how I comprehended your statement? You stated that the procedure by the previous owner will slow the progress of rust.. That is obvious, but the pictures show otherwise.. Since it is only a year since he used that procedure.. If you read what I posted he said, he wants to tackle the rust issue with a NEW procedure, one that he won't be doing himself but will be passing on to the new owner with the proper materials.. From the way he speaks of it, it sounds as though this could solve the rust issue.. It is not the same procedure that he did before, therefore your statement become irrelevant in that sense.. So I went forth and asked further questions after your sole response. I understood what you said, you don't have to repeat yourself.rlomba8204 wrote:Thanks for the heads-up. I need an imbecile like you to critique my reading comprehension about as much as I need an additional hole in my head.BMWgiant wrote: Okay thank you, again. I read that and I came up with new questions, which is how I responded.. But you seem to have missed it as you usually do.
But let's be serious for a minute. For starters, put the bong down for a moment or two. Let's review my original statement, again, for your benefit:
Then let's look at your question in response to my above answer. Again, bongs down:rlomba8204 wrote:So the question is what do you want from the car? Do you want to do another 100k miles without rust issues? If so, you'll need a competent bodyshop to properly remediate the issue. If, however, you are looking for a nice car to drive for the next 3 or 4 years, what the seller has done is probably enough to slow the spread of the rust so that it is a non-issue.
Now, reconsider whether I answered that question. (Hint: "Do you want to do another 100k miles without rust issues? If so, you'll need a competent bodyshop to properly remediate the issue.")BMWgiant wrote:
My question is, will the procedure that he explained and materials that he will provide slow down this rust issue further, to a point that if I DID want to own the car for 10 years, that my door won't be falling off? I know that he arrested and treated the rust, but how much do I need to worry that after a year, it is showing as much as it is already . . .
As regards the question regarding the POR-15, I intentionally decided not to answer that question or the others because you couldn't seem to comprehend the information I already provided. So why bother further?
Finally, a public service announcement for the kids out there watching from home: this a cautionary tale regarding what happens when you smoke pot too often. Your ability to comprehend and process simple statements, and absord simple information, is compromised. So, to the kids out there, just say no to drugs!