MyE28.com

Just thought I would throw up a few pics. I'm getting dangerously close to starting this thing.

is that a MAF sensor in front of the turbo?

bmwfan1957 wrote:is that a MAF sensor in front of the turbo?

No, it's the stock AFM upside down.

oh i see... that's what confused me

well congrats on getting close to finishing your project! you should take some pics from under the car so we can see the manifold/turbo a little better... what kind of manifold did you use?

bmwfan1957 wrote:well congrats on getting close to finishing your project! you should take some pics from under the car so we can see the manifold/turbo a little better... what kind of manifold did you use?

It's a NOS cartech manifold that I ceramic coated black. Here's a couple more pics, but they're not very good.

wow... it looks like you got a lot of stuff into a small area! nice job... i can see why it's probably hard to get good pictures of eveything!

what kind of HP are you hoping for?

bmwfan1957 wrote:wow... it looks like you got a lot of stuff into a small area! nice job... i can see why it's probably hard to get good pictures of eveything!

what kind of HP are you hoping for?

Around 300whp.

Veddy nice!

Better get some duct tape on the bellows you have your diverter valve plugged into. I'd be suprised it the stock rubber boot held 6 psi.

Looks like its coming along. Are you planning on running an IC?

are you doing anything about intercooling? or are you going to run non i/c'ed at first just to get some boost flavour going then later on down the road install an intercoolery?

turbodan wrote:Better get some duct tape on the bellows you have your diverter valve plugged into. I'd be suprised it the stock rubber boot held 6 psi.

It is new if that matters, but I will eventually have a pipe welded up. Decided to start out un-intercooled until I figure out exactly how I want to do it.

If it is new take it off and sell it while its still in one piece.

Jays535is wrote:

turbodan wrote:Better get some duct tape on the bellows you have your diverter valve plugged into. I'd be suprised it the stock rubber boot held 6 psi.

It is new if that matters, but I will eventually have a pipe welded up. Decided to start out un-intercooled until I figure out exactly how I want to do it.

chrism wrote:If it is new take it off and sell it while its still in one piece.

Jays535is wrote:

turbodan wrote:Better get some duct tape on the bellows you have your diverter valve plugged into. I'd be suprised it the stock rubber boot held 6 psi.

It is new if that matters, but I will eventually have a pipe welded up. Decided to start out un-intercooled until I figure out exactly how I want to do it.

Yea, I was wondering how it would do. Sounds like you've tried it before. I guess I'll just plan of getting that fabbed up soon.

Thanks,

Jay

Wow jay you've come alot further since the last time we talked! Your almost there... if only i wasnt 150 miles away from my car at school...

Is it just me or am i misinformed at thinking that the bov was supposed to be before the afm? Wouldnt that just be blowing already metered air out? I am assuming your recirculating your intake charge somewhere. Maybe im just confused because i was planning on just running a bov open to the atmosphere and placing the it before the afm. I guess my plans for keeping the stock boot are shot too. What bypass valve is that anyway? ebay knockoff?

g00b86 wrote:Wow jay you've come alot further since the last time we talked! Your almost there... if only i wasnt 150 miles away from my car at school...

Is it just me or am i misinformed at thinking that the bov was supposed to be before the afm? Wouldnt that just be blowing already metered air out? I am assuming your recirculating your intake charge somewhere. Maybe im just confused because i was planning on just running a bov open to the atmosphere and placing the it before the afm. I guess my plans for keeping the stock boot are shot too. What bypass valve is that anyway? ebay knockoff?

Ryan, It's a VW/Audi/Porsche bypass like this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-GOLF- ... enameZWDVW
I will be routing the discharge hose in between the turbo intake and AFM. It's already metered air so it needs to be after the AFM, but before the turbo. Running a straight BOV will make you run rich as that air has already been accounted for from the AFM, so that's why it's good to use a bypass valve to recirculate the charged air.

If you look at picture #2 it will eventually be routed back into that black 90* elbow.

I see what your saying.. i was aware about the running rich situation to an extent. But if you put the bov BEFORE the afm then would that change anything? Seeing as how it wouldnt be accounted for in the afm reading. What im trying to get at is that i am having a hard time trying to figure out how to recirculate my air back since im going top mount and i was just planning on venting to atmosphere. I guess i could put it after the afm like yours, get a decent recirc. valve and tap it into the intake charge pipe comming from the turbo before the afm. Maybe one of those 50/50 valves like they run on some of the wrx's since they seem to suffer from the running rich problem as well without any software to correct it.

g00b86 wrote:I see what your saying.. i was aware about the running rich situation to an extent. But if you put the bov BEFORE the afm then would that change anything? Seeing as how it wouldnt be accounted for in the afm reading. What im trying to get at is that i am having a hard time trying to figure out how to recirculate my air back since im going top mount and i was just planning on venting to atmosphere. I guess i could put it after the afm like yours, get a decent recirc. valve and tap it into the intake charge pipe comming from the turbo before the afm. Maybe one of those 50/50 valves like they run on some of the wrx's since they seem to suffer from the running rich problem as well without any software to correct it.

You're confusing the turbo intake and the turbo compressor outlet. The bypass valve/BOV needs to be close to the throttle body, as that's where the charged air is going. Once you let off the throttle that charged air is hitting a closed door at the closed throttle butterfly, so it goes back out the BOV (atmosphere) or threw the bypass valve to the intake side off the turbo. The whole point of this is so charged air doesn't slam back the wrong way into the turbo.

The AFM really has nothing to do with this, except that if you use a BOV it will run rich for a split second. The AFM is on the turbo intake side so there's no pressurized air there.

Picture #3 shows the turbo compressor outlet that's going to go straight up into the intake boot. So between there and the throttle body is where the compressed air is. Hope this makes a little more sense.

I don't think there is really any viable way of running a true BOV (blow off valve - i.e to atmo) with an AFM without any of the rich running upon blowoff. If its before the AFM, then you have to have a blow through setup and thats not typically the way most recommend running the system. The AFM was meant as draw through, before the turbo, so it never sees positive pressure. The only way to fly with an AFM is a BPV and to recirc it in after the AFM, but before the turbo.
If you really want a BOV for the noise (I got tired of the BOV in my Nissan after a while), then you will need to go with some kind of speed density system such as MS and you can blow off all the air you want.

Jay, your completely right.. i totally knew thats what needed to be done i feel embarrassingly dumb like a some noob maybe it was just a little too late for me... anyway what your saying makes complete sense thanks for clearing that up for me. What needs to be done is to have the afm on the intake of the side of the turbo to meter the air being sucked into the turbo, then have a charge pipe coming from the compressor side of the turbo straight towards the TB. Makes a little more sense. The afm should always have air being pulled through it not being pressurized towards it. Im just going to have to come up with a good way to mount this thing not too close to the turbo and since im going top mount i dont have a whole lot of room in front of the turbo so ill probably have to come up with a mount for it somewhere. I wasnt really looking for a BOV for the noise, but if i did want that i could just get a 50/50 valve from turboxs or something. Just trying to score a good valve what wasnt a knock off for a decent price, bc i know those ghetto ebay ones dont hold worth a shit, and alot of ppl complain about them not holding peak boost well at all and giving creep. My only other question for you jay is what do you plan on doing to keep the items on the rubber boot going into the TB to stay? If turbodan is right they would just pop off after anything higher than like 5 psi? Thanks again, and sorry for the mix up.. im pretty sure that whoever reads my posts will think im just some dumb noob kid who wants to just slap some turbo on their car cuz they think its cool to be 2Fast2Furioius when in reality ive been trying to learn as much as i could from this board for over a year now and its the stuff like this that made me go to school to be a mech. engineer in the first place. Hope i didnt ruin any of my credibility after this one.

It's all good Ryan. Sometimes it's just hard to visualize until you start slapping the parts together. As far as the intake boot, I have clamps on all the things going into it, so they should hold.

More stuff done. Got the downpipe on, BPV all hooked up, crankcase vent hooked to BPV line, coolant lines ran.

Few more pics of the updated intake piping.

Jays535is wrote: The AFM really has nothing to do with this, except that if you use a BOV it will run rich for a split second. The AFM is on the turbo intake side so there's no pressurized air there.

I think thats a bit of an understatement. It will run extremely rich while the BOV is open. Most BOV's also hang open a little at idle, so they can be an air leak there as well. Once the air through the AFM is accounted for, it needs to go into the engine. Blowing off a big wad of it will cause you problems.

I've gotten a little more done (very cold here). As of right now I just need to install gauges boost/AFR/EGT and finish the exhaust.
Finally got the drain figured out after starring at it for hours and trying different things. It' a pretty tight space about 5" away with a 1.5" drop going into the factory boss.



Had to get a special order K&N filter to fit in that space. It's mounting hole is offset making it fit nice. It also came with a usable port so I have the emissions canister hooked up to it



And finally got my intake pipes all wrapped up with self- adhesive thermal tape (Autozone).



Hoping have it running this month, and work on getting it tuned.

JAY is looks like your there! Great job man really sweet that you've finally got it together. Whats that hose in the foreground of your last pic the oil supply?

g00b86 wrote:JAY is looks like your there! Great job man really sweet that you've finally got it together. Whats that hose in the foreground of your last pic the oil supply?

Hi Ryan,

If it's the black thing (by fire wall) that goes up then down It's actually the engine harness (need to ziptie it).

Its definitely taking shape now. When do you think it'll be running?

Please, please, please tell me you are not going at drive the car with that air filter on it?

Get an iTG filter. It will fit the space you cram it into and not have a large air blocking plastic surface.