MyE28.com

If you were to buy a E30 325is 194k miles (great shape all around) what would you do to set it up for turbo?

For example
Change Timing belt?
How much you you modify the supension, brakes, and driveline before installing a turbo, and is Mega Squirt needed or a very resourceful tool?

Thank you very much if you read this and/or give any input.

Hunter

Do some research holmes. I'm all for answering m20 turbo questions, but they need to be more specific than that.

Better brakes, make sure the rest of the suspension/driveline is solid, then buy turbo kit and install. Oh, you'll probably need to upgrade the fuel pump.

Easy.

Jeremy

I just had some basic questions thanks for awnsering.

Hunter has a Bimmer3 wrote:I just had some basic questions thanks for awnsering.

e28bmw wrote:To start I would not put a turbo on a 194k engine. You will have to take that engine down to a bare block and start over. The whole drivetrain needs to also be replaced along with the brakes.

If the compression numbers come back great...whats wrong with using that engine....? 56k motor with shitty compression numbers would be better because of what? Nothing

Drive train doesn't need to be replaced at all...many e30 turbo running 3/400+rwhp are using stock components...

brakes will need to be upgraded....correct

if your compression numbers are good use the engine that you have...if you wanna up the boost get a MLS headgasket....proper bolts...

I head should be fine..big power get the coolant channels welded....cam will be good to "only" 450 hp then your VE is going to degrade

e28bmw wrote:To start I would not put a turbo on a 194k engine. You will have to take that engine down to a bare block and start over. The whole drivetrain needs to also be replaced along with the brakes.

30k turbo miles on a 230k mile motor/drivetrain with no changes or degradation in mechanicals says you're wrong.

Just make sure it's healthy to begin with, I forgot that part.

Jeremy

I really dont want a 800 hp 1000ft/lb e30 I would lose my licence within a week. I just want a TCD S1 or maybe a S2. I want 300 hp and 300ft/lbs.

big power get the coolant channels welded

please explain.

Yea, great. A "BMW built right" like Zane Coker's or Ken Hawkin's motor makes ridiculous power, yes.

422 whp came out of the 220k mile powerplant in my 535is at 18psi though with just MLS and head studs. The motor you just showed doesn't even start to spool the turbo until 3500 rpm. I think Hunter is looking for something with a bit more everyday driveability.

Hunter, don't worry about this guy. What he's talking about doesn't apply in any way to your goals.

Jeremy

Jeremy,

Were you selling your 535 before you picked your new one from Todd, or did it sell? Just curious

Hunter has a Bimmer3 wrote:Jeremy,

Were you selling your 535 before you picked your new one from Todd, or did it sell? Just curious

It was for sale, but I took it off the market.

Jeremy

Hunter has a Bimmer3 wrote:I really dont want a 800 hp 1000ft/lb e30 I would lose my licence within a week. I just want a TCD S1 or maybe a S2. I want 300 hp and 300ft/lbs.

big power get the coolant channels welded

please explain.

Here is a head that I had the coolant channels welded. It doesnt completely block the channel but is used to strengthen and protect from any type of warping and such..

Ya get welded..then machined(decked) flat...

good luck

Here is another shot to show the welded channels on a m20 head

That might be something to look into.

I wouldnt bother. Thats pretty extreme stuff, and if done poorly it could destroy the head. If you actually look at the channels they welded, you can see that the chamber is pretty well supported. You would need to actually deform the head to cause leakage there. I'm doing 300 at the wheels on the stock head, bolts and gasket. As long as it doesnt detonate everything holds just fine. I wouldnt even think about welding a head until I was pushing 400 at the wheels. Even then I dont know if it'd be necessary.