MyE28.com

Update on my car - the new injector connectors get soldered in this morning. I will also pull the 60-2 wheel and glue a degree wheel to it with the new TDC being 0 degrees. I am making the degree wheel from paper. I found one on the internet, downloaded it and enlarged it to fit my 60-2 wheel. This will be needed for timing the cam. Will check the block deck with a straight edge tomorrow and finish prepping the block.

<img src="http://e28-535i.com/upload/60-2.JPG">

The head (a virgin B35, meaning never touched since new) will be finish by Paul Burke by Tuesday and sent out.

The MLS HG from TCD should be here by Friday.

The fuel injectors will be back from testing (test results are they all flow the same).

Everything should come together by next weekend when I will install the new head and get the car running again. I am looking forward to dialing in the cam, never done that before and I will enjoy having the new skill. To make sure, Paul will be talking me through it on the phone.

Duke M535ti wrote:Update on my car - the new injector connectors get soldered in this morning. Will check the block deck with a straight edge tomorrow and finish prepping the block.

The head (a virgin B35, meaning never touch since new) will be finish by Paul Burk by Tuesday and sent out.

The MLS HG from TCD should be here by Friday.

The fuel injectors will be back from testing (test results are they all flow the same).

Everything should come together by next weekend when I will install the new head and get the car running again. I am looking forward to dialing in the cam, never done that before and I will enjoy having the new skill. To make sure, Paul will be talking me through it on the phone.

If you can locate some liquid rosin flux, it will make soldering on the automotive wiring much easier. GC liquid rosin flux can be used and will not have to be cleaned (same stuff that's in the solder but dipping the wire in it first will improve the soldering process)

However when we build our harnesses, we start with the bare contacts and crimp them directly to the wire with the correct crimpers. Then insert into housings. Easier and neater than the pigtails.

I prefer this to soldering on cars. This is the type of crimping I spoke of at my 5erFest 2005 Tech Session. I think I also talked about the flux.

It does require the correct crimpers and contacts which took some research.

That is good news Duke.

What happened with the Hartge Head? I remember you saying you would have it checked out thoroughly. Maybe you already explained this somewhere and I missed it. Just curious.

However when we build our harnesses, we start with the bare contacts and crimp them directly to the wire with the correct crimpers. Then insert into housings. Easier and neater than the pigtails.

I do have the correct crimpers. I know now how to use them properly. I did not when I crimped the connections on the current FI plugs. I have had three of them pull loose and need re-crimping. That is why I am going to just cut them out and install pre-fabbed pig tails.

I used the crimpers when I installed the traction control computer, worked perfectly and I am 100% confident in the connections.

I believe the soldier wire I use is a flux core, It does flow out nicely regardless. Will then cover the solder connections with shrink tube. Should be a clean, secure connection.

GregATL wrote:What happened with the Hartge Head? I remember you saying you would have it checked out thoroughly. Maybe you already explained this somewhere and I missed it. Just curious.

The head needs to be resurfaced, exhaust valve guides and seats. I have decided to part ways with the Hartge head. It was wonderful for a NA application and should be happy with a NA engine. It will be cleaned up, surfaced and then I will sell it on ebay. I am sure someone with a Hartge H5s or H6s would love to have a original Hartge head for a spare or replacement.

Great work Duke. Looking forward to seeing your results. I'm sure they will be outstanding!

Glad to hear things are progressing in a positive fashion.

Duke M535ti wrote:
I believe the soldier wire I use is a flux core, It does flow out nicely regardless. Will then cover the solder connections with shrink tube. Should be a clean, secure connection.

I'm probably late on the draw here, but also stay away from lead-free solder. I started soldering in the early 70's and still have trouble with it. A lot of the MS kits I repair are made with lead-free solder and the stuff is a fright. Most soldering irons don't have the correct range to make the 96.5%/3%/.5% stuff melt well. Even good joints look cold and gray.
Give me good old 63/37 everytime.
Most electronic solder is flux-cored, but the extra liquid flux goes a long way to helping the solder stick better.
If the wire is new and tinned, you probably won't need it.

For electronics (and now everything else since it spoiled me), I use Loctite P/N MM00973 -- "SOLDER - 63/37 502 3C 0.032"/0.81MM 0.5KG SN63 CRYSTAL 502 2% .032-1" What does all that gibberish mean? It's a mere 0.032" diameter, 5-core rosin, and low-temp. It makes it extremely easy to solder and you don't have to put a lot of heat into the joint (possibly damaging other things). What's more, the rosin doesn't have to be cleaned off. I got it from Newark Electonics (oops -- it's out of stock and they say they need a 71-day lead time on ordering).

I also suggest a good temperature-controlled soldering station. I have a Weller WES-51.

Shawn D. wrote:For electronics (and now everything else since it spoiled me), I use Loctite P/N MM00973 -- "SOLDER - 63/37 502 3C 0.032"/0.81MM 0.5KG SN63 CRYSTAL 502 2% .032-1" What does all that gibberish mean? It's a mere 0.032" diameter, 5-core rosin, and low-temp. It makes it extremely easy to solder and you don't have to put a lot of heat into the joint (possibly damaging other things). What's more, the rosin doesn't have to be cleaned off. I got it from Newark Electonics (oops -- it's out of stock and they say they need a 71-day lead time on ordering).

I also suggest a good temperature-controlled soldering station. I have a Weller WES-51.

Reminds me of the old MutliCore Solder

Another great solder is the Cardas Quad Eutectic solder. Expensive (no, I don't think it 'sounds better' like audio-philes suggest. It does solder like a dream and has a no-clean flux like the Loctite stuff.
http://www.cardas.com/content.php?area= ... r+and+Flux
Amtech also has a nice no-clean flux in their wire solders.

Ok Duke, I'm done hijacking your thread.

Just finished with a Goodson 24" precision straight edge.

The thinest feeler gauge I have is .002. I could not get it under the straight edge anywhere on the block. I laid the SE diagonally both directions, across every cylinder bore, strain down the bores, down both rows of stud holes...etc....etc. The block is good and ready for a MLS gasket.

More good new and more relief.

I borrowed the SE from our auto hobby shop and just went on line to see how much one costs. This baby is over $100, I can't justify that expense right now. It would be sweet to own one though.

Click here for the web page

That is neat! Great news!

I received the bar the other day. Waiting to put it on the car.

The head from Paul Burke is here, it is a work of art (like jewelry). The MLS head gasket from TCD is here. TCD had a MLS HG custom cut 1mm larger bore per PB instructions for me.

TCD covered the cost of the HG for me too. Thanks Todd!

Fuel injectors are back. Other parts from Steve are here too.

I have many things to do but the car will be running by Monday vise any unforeseen problems.

I will be taking lots O pictures to document the LAST (god willing, knock on wood...etc.) HG install on this engine. I will post this on my web site.

Anyone in the general vicinity of western TN that wants to check this out, you are welcome and I do have a guest room.

Sounds great Duke...hope all goes well. Keep us posted.

Duke M535ti wrote:
Anyone in the general vicinity of western TN that wants to check this out, you are welcome and I do have a guest room.

Man if I wasn't finishing up parting out my 745 parts car I'd grab Johnny and we'd road trip our asses over there.

Got wrenches, will travel.

Vance

When are you doing the install? I'm passing through your place on Monday, March 19 on my way to Chattanooga.

shifty wrote:When are you doing the install? I'm passing through your place on Monday, March 19 on my way to Chattanooga.

Stop by, I can wait until then and have you help me or do it tomorrow. What time are you expecting to be here?

It would be mid-afternoon, and I'd be with my girlfriend and her 2 1/2 year old daughter. I wouldn't be helping with the wrenching but could hang out and shoot the shizzle with you for a while.

Maybe I could take some videos if she's running.

You are more than welcome. I look forward to seeing you guys.