MyE28.com

I've had a Lincoln AC-255 stick welder for many years. Bought it on CL. Turned it on once to make sure it actually worked.

Today I started teaching myself how to weld. I've been reading a welding book and about 4 years ago my son I took a half day class. I started by just trying things with some 3/16" steel I had lying around and some E6013 1/16" electrodes.


Then I got serious and watched some youtube videos. I also discovered that I hadn't removed the protective plastic sticker on the inside of my auto-mask. Turns out it's a lot easier to weld if you can see.

Starting to get the hang of it. I have a long way to go, but I've now drawn enough beads that I can actually control things.



Fun, fun, fun.

cek wrote:Weld, ergo sum

I've long thought about a welding class..
I like the learning curve I'm seeing.

This is definitely on my todo list.

I'm closing my shop, so if you are interested in some welders let me know.

bkbimmer wrote:I'm closing my shop, so if you are interested in some welders let me know.

Are you included?

therefore I am

cek wrote:

bkbimmer wrote:I'm closing my shop, so if you are interested in some welders let me know.

Are you included?

For the right price.

Today I practiced more. Got to the point that I felt I could pull a bead straight and true every time.

So I doubled down and decided to actually build something. I don't have any material to actually build something I'd USE, like an engine cradle, but I did buy 6' of 1" square tubing at home depot.

So I decided to make a little 8"x8" square. Totally useless, but would require many skills I don't have.

Using my bitch'n Hemsaw, I was able to cut 4 equal size pieces.


I failed to consider three things:

1) The 1/16" thick 1" square tubing is a lot thinner than the 3/16" stuff I was practicing with.
2) Butt joints make burn-through happen real quick now.
3) The lowest (40 amp) setting my a Lincoln arc welder is still to hot for 1/16" steel unless you are a pro (at least that's what I'm telling myself).

So, my little square got built, but it ain't pretty.


Oh, well. This is how one learns.

Why would you waste your time with a stick welder?

bkbimmer wrote:Why would you waste your time with a stick welder?

Because you haven't sold me your mig yet.

cek wrote:

bkbimmer wrote:Why would you waste your time with a stick welder?

Because you haven't sold me your mig yet.

I could teach you how to be a professional mig welder in about 15 minutes.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/5458448331.html

Price is a little high but a nice machine

joel323 wrote:https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/5458448331.html

Price is a little high but a nice machine

Thanks.

The new Miller 211 looks really nice, but from reviews seems their quality has gone down.
http://www.amazon.com/Millermatic-211-W ... B013HGPNDM

Meanwhile, I have this in my Amazon wish-list. Great reviews, a lot less expensive, and still made in 'murica.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004USV5UC

Good progress. Get a decent mig, learn how to adjust the settings correctly for the material and you'll be surprised at how quickly you'll improve. Remember, just like the porn, welding is all about the penetration.

I like my cheap hobart, it does what I need for under $500.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X4 ... =8-1-spell

Miller owns Hobart I believe, One thing to keep in mind about the current Hobarts is that they do not have the infinitely variable power switch. . Miller models and some Lincoln models have this feature. This makes a big difference when your tuning your welder.

I have thousands of hours on my miller 210 and never had a problem with it, only need to replace wear items like liner and tips.

I'm about ready to buy a new stinger for it after 10 years.

Just make sure to get a mig that runs off 220v, unless you want to weld other metals than steel, a used lincoln mig setup is what i would recommend. I use a 10 year old lincoln and it works great, a big plus is that home depot sells lincoln spool wire and consumables. Heres an example of how you could put together a complete setup for less than $400. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/5454150731.html

Another tip is when you go to buy a cO2 tank call around and ask steel supply yards if they sell tanks, i found that all the gas companies like praxair will make you pay out the nose if your not a business. for example they quote $350 for a 150cf and a steel yard will sell a 220cf for $200.

mitch5 wrote:Just make sure to get a mig that runs off 220v, unless you want to weld other metals than steel, a used lincoln mig setup is what i would recommend. I use a 10 year old lincoln and it works great, a big plus is that home depot sells lincoln spool wire and consumables. Heres an example of how you could put together a complete setup for less than $400. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/5454150731.html

Another tip is when you go to buy a cO2 tank call around and ask steel supply yards if they sell tanks, i found that all the gas companies like praxair will make you pay out the nose if your not a business. for example they quote $350 for a 150cf and a steel yard will sell a 220cf for $200.

This guy can afford a good welder and bottle.

Not that you asked for any opinions but since this is a forum...

I would buy a machine that exceeds anything you think you will do so you never have to upgrade. I rarely use even 50% of my machines capacity which means it never reaches it's duty cycle. I understand you aren't doing this for a living but if you can afford it why not. When I was starting out at around 16 all I could afford was a 110v sp125 Lincoln which was awesome but I was almost always using it near max capacity and it made working a pita and the work suffered on anything above 14g.

Beyond the machine the best thing you can do is invest in a good helmet.

nice job Man! something i need to learn.

how's that s52 swap coming along? would be great to see some updates

joel323 wrote:Miller owns Hobart I believe, One thing to keep in mind about the current Hobarts is that they do not have the infinitely variable power switch. . Miller models and some Lincoln models have this feature. This makes a big difference when your tuning your welder.

I hear you on that. Bummer if you want aluminum spool gun capability you have to go all the way to the Miller 212 (which is 220v ONLY). But that Hobart will work with a spool gun and is 110/220. But the Miller 211 is infinitely adjustable and the Hobart only has 7 settings.

I don't know enough to really know if the infinitely variable power is that critical... you seem to think it is and I have a high-regard for the results you produce so...

(This, BTW, is precisely why I've started with stick: I had one and didn't want to make the decision on a MIG until I actually had some experience).

cek wrote:

joel323 wrote:Miller owns Hobart I believe, One thing to keep in mind about the current Hobarts is that they do not have the infinitely variable power switch. . Miller models and some Lincoln models have this feature. This makes a big difference when your tuning your welder.

I hear you on that. Bummer if you want aluminum spool gun capability you have to go all the way to the Miller 212 (which is 220v ONLY). But that Hobart will work with a spool gun and is 110/220. But the Miller 211 is infinitely adjustable and the Hobart only has 7 settings.

I don't know enough to really know if the infinitely variable power is that critical... you seem to think it is and I have a high-regard for the results you produce so...

(This, BTW, is precisely why I've started with stick: I had one and didn't want to make the decision on a MIG until I actually had some experience).

My older miller 210 excepts a spool gun but if you want to weld aluminum you might as well get a tig welder. Spool guns are mostly good for large fabrication as you cant get them in tight places.

bkbimmer wrote:

cek wrote:

joel323 wrote:Miller owns Hobart I believe, One thing to keep in mind about the current Hobarts is that they do not have the infinitely variable power switch. . Miller models and some Lincoln models have this feature. This makes a big difference when your tuning your welder.

I hear you on that. Bummer if you want aluminum spool gun capability you have to go all the way to the Miller 212 (which is 220v ONLY). But that Hobart will work with a spool gun and is 110/220. But the Miller 211 is infinitely adjustable and the Hobart only has 7 settings.

I don't know enough to really know if the infinitely variable power is that critical... you seem to think it is and I have a high-regard for the results you produce so...

(This, BTW, is precisely why I've started with stick: I had one and didn't want to make the decision on a MIG until I actually had some experience).

My older miller 210 excepts a spool gun but if you want to weld aluminum you might as well get a tig welder. Spool guns are mostly good for large fabrication as you cant get them in tight places.

Actually, it turns out I just missed that the 211 will work with a spool gun. Good point on doing aluminum right.

cek wrote:

bkbimmer wrote:

cek wrote:

joel323 wrote:Miller owns Hobart I believe, One thing to keep in mind about the current Hobarts is that they do not have the infinitely variable power switch. . Miller models and some Lincoln models have this feature. This makes a big difference when your tuning your welder.

I hear you on that. Bummer if you want aluminum spool gun capability you have to go all the way to the Miller 212 (which is 220v ONLY). But that Hobart will work with a spool gun and is 110/220. But the Miller 211 is infinitely adjustable and the Hobart only has 7 settings.

I don't know enough to really know if the infinitely variable power is that critical... you seem to think it is and I have a high-regard for the results you produce so...

(This, BTW, is precisely why I've started with stick: I had one and didn't want to make the decision on a MIG until I actually had some experience).

My older miller 210 excepts a spool gun but if you want to weld aluminum you might as well get a tig welder. Spool guns are mostly good for large fabrication as you cant get them in tight places.

Actually, it turns out I just missed that the 211 will work with a spool gun. Good point on doing aluminum right.

No shit, I'm a fucking professional.

One of the skills I am happy I am getting better at. I am just being cheap and using a HF flux core wire welder.

I have the Miller 210. It makes such a huge difference to have a solid machine. Technique matters, but tools matter a whole heck of a lot too. It's easy to FEEL like you've spent too much on a good welder. Unless it sits in the corner of the garage never being used, you'll likely get your monies worth on any semi-serious project.

carlb wrote:I have the Miller 210. It makes such a huge difference to have a solid machine. Technique matters, but tools matter a whole heck of a lot too. It's easy to FEEL like you've spent too much on a good welder. Unless it sits in the corner of the garage never being used, you'll likely get your monies worth on any semi-serious project.

Hey, look... someone who knows what they're talking aboot.

I weld but also build.

I got me one of these. Stupid easy and a 3 yr warranty.
http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welders-175 ... l-gun.html

I miss that E3. Where did it end up?