On the other hand, that friction plate looks positively GREAT!
Turbo Clutch Discussion - Update 12/10/2009
Is it segmented on the one side and full face on the other? I'm a bit thrown by what you mean by "full disc". You only showed the one side of the friction disc, so I couldn't be certain without asking.Big Bronze Rim wrote:It uses a segmented Fiber Tough material on a full disc with a marcel spring and sprung hub.
If it drives as well as the one I have, you'll love it.
Jeremy
I ran a 12 lb flywheel on the TCDs1 along with the SPEC stage 3 clutch. It was a puck clutch and engagement was "tricky" to accomplish without getting chatter. I think the light flywheel made it more difficult. Aside than that issue (which I attributed mostly to the clutch), I absolutely loved the light flywheel.Big Bronze Rim wrote:Does anyone have any comments or experiences running a LW flywheel on a turbo car? I am contemplating removing about 4lb from a 535i flywheel splitting the difference between a 535i FW and a 533i FW.
Jeremy
No benefit for a turbo car. They're most useful for high strung NA motors with short gearing. With the torque a turbo car makes and tall gearing you dont have anything to gain. If anything a little more flywheel weight is good to make the power more tractable. I also like a heavier flywheel because it takes longer to heat up.
Low boost is more like a NA car than big boost I suppose. I preferred the feel of the power delivery with the light flywheel, 10psi non-IC, and 3.46 over the stock flywheel with 12psi, IC, standalone, and 2.93 even though the second setup was undoubtedly faster.
Let's just say it's a matter of preference.
Let's just say it's a matter of preference.
The red car has a 15lb M5 flywheel. It's the difference in the 293 to 346 gearing that you feel.Jeremy wrote:Low boost is more like a NA car than big boost I suppose. I preferred the feel of the power delivery with the light flywheel, 10psi non-IC, and 3.46 over the stock flywheel with 12psi, IC, standalone, and 2.93 even though the second setup was undoubtedly faster.
Let's just say it's a matter of preference.
Nothing really, I'm just being a cheap bastard by not installing a 533i/M5 FW. Some people do not like the exceptionally light FWs in a turbo car and a LW FW can exacerbate the characteristics of an aggressive clutch. If I can take a 535i FW and remove as much as possible while it's out of the car, it may not necessarily be helping a whole lot but it's also not going to "hurt" as much as a significantly lighter unit.tsmall07 wrote:I don't think you'll have much gain by "splitting the difference". My car is NA, but the difference is still relatively slight after having 7lbs milled off the flywheel. What are you trying to avoid by not milling all you can?
My flywheel has been machined and ground so hopefully I will have time this weekend to tear the car down and install a clutch. I can finally start to feel the clutch "micro-slip" a bit and I know that a full blown rpm flare is not far off. I will say though that the performance of this clutch has been epic.
have you gotten around to putting the clutch in yet brad? Im really curious to see how you like it... pros and cons and how you like the new lighter flywheel. I Know i dont have anything to compare to as i have never had the heavier flywheel in my car but i could see my turbo spooling minutly faster with the heavier flywheel but other then that not really anything
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kylekrueger
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Mar 31, 2010
So if i tried out the clutch net one you guys were talking about a while ago would i need a new pressure plate as well or could I run the stock one because in the description it seems to imply that I don't need a high pressure plate.
http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?pr ... t=0&page=1
here is the link again
http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?pr ... t=0&page=1
here is the link again
kylekrueger wrote:So if i tried out the clutch net one you guys were talking about a while ago would i need a new pressure plate as well or could I run the stock one because in the description it seems to imply that I don't need a high pressure plate.
http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?pr ... t=0&page=1
here is the link again
"Severe" best describes the action of this clutch disc. Engagement is harsh and instantaneous with no compromise for slippage.
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kylekrueger
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Mar 31, 2010
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M. Holtmeier
- Posts: 3053
- Joined: Mar 11, 2007
- Location: Josephine, Texas
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kylekrueger
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Mar 31, 2010
no i'm not slipping right now but i am compiling parts for my turbocharging project and i am planning on around 400 hp so i was assuming that i would need a new clutch and clutches seem to be much less expensive then clutch and pressure plate kits.
I was really wondering if I would need to run a new pressure plate
I was really wondering if I would need to run a new pressure plate
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M. Holtmeier
- Posts: 3053
- Joined: Mar 11, 2007
- Location: Josephine, Texas
In my personal experience, I would not use a stock pressure plate. When I was running 20psi daily on my stock b34, I managed to use up a UUC Peformance organic clutch in one season. The pressure plate that comes with that kit is a modified stock pressure plate. When I got my Spec clutch, it was an entirely different pressure plate. Granted it is a ceramic disk. This is just my experience, I've never been that great at shifting and will forego clutch feel for holding power.
Are you building an engine or rebuilding your current engine? If you're not actually pulling it out you may want to use up what's in there. The stock clutch should hold up to 12psi. It gets a running car with boost to play around with.
Are you building an engine or rebuilding your current engine? If you're not actually pulling it out you may want to use up what's in there. The stock clutch should hold up to 12psi. It gets a running car with boost to play around with.
i would agree with grsmonkey and dan, i run 9lbs daily and it doesnt slip but when i hit 14 it starts to slip and once its slipped at that amount of torque it take a fair bit to cool it down. I couldnt run anymore that night, but it also hasnt slipped on me in the 3 months following. I rebuilt and pulled but with what looked to be an almost brand new clutch i had in there(didnt know forsure) i couldnt justify atleast burning it out in the name of torque. Keep in mind im really really mean to drive trains ass swell. When i used to have my track integra i went through a tranny a year with really hard shifting and really hard power cornering(good thing they were cheap).
If you have the motor out and its fairly worn replace it, the throw out, and the pressure plate and make sure your flywheel is in good shape too.
If you have the motor out and its fairly worn replace it, the throw out, and the pressure plate and make sure your flywheel is in good shape too.
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kylekrueger
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Mar 31, 2010
thanks guys. Unfortunately the motor is not out of the car. I am doing the build with the engine in the car. I know this is not optimum but I don't have the resources or equipment to do so. Also the engine has only about 6000 miles on it since I last did a complete rebuild.
So, i guess i need a clutch and pressure plate kit, what would you guy suggest that is as cheap as possible. My power levels will be around 350bhp.
~Kyle
So, i guess i need a clutch and pressure plate kit, what would you guy suggest that is as cheap as possible. My power levels will be around 350bhp.
~Kyle


