MyE28.com

Small for what? It'll do 600rwhp. I dont know for sure, but I think thats probably within the power goals of this project.

e30-m30_kid89 wrote:I traded my Holset H1C for a 3 month old GT3563R+cash....

Will it do good or did I screw myself?

The Holset most likely had a 50-55 mm compressor inducer, and doesn't compare well to the GT3582R, it has 61.2 mm inducer and 10 years further evolution, and should be able to flow 25-50% more air and have an overall better compressor map.

The turbines are quite similar in size, but the GT35 axle is probably slightly more efficient but most importantly it's lighter which will contribute to better transient response (faster spool).

For a 3.5 litre engine I would probably have opted for a larger turbine than what the GT3582R brings to the table, even if the power goal is only 400 whp. The compressor has a sweet spot for that kind of power and is alright. That size is found on many GT40 turbos here in Sweden that once were on diesel truck engines, 65 mm exducer and suitable turbine housings.

Sorry for the disappearance, Things at work picked up (finally) so i was out earning monies to play with my toys.

I bailed on the deal (the seller was cool with it) primarily because another turbine housing was like 500usd plus shipping/duties etc - Ouch! So its back to my dear H1C.

I picked up another front timing cover + new gaskets/seals. Still need to install that as well before I throw on the clutch.

Since i freed up some cash this Monday coming up I shall be ordering my Spec stg3 clutch kit. Looks very good bang for buck and even comes with new bearings and alignment tool which I really like as well.

I've decided to make the month of February "Driveline+extras" month. I want to get my driveline sorted out and fully installed (if i catch a few good days of weather out here).

Besides getting and installing the clutch+trans and getting them into the car I need to mate the front half of the E28 driveshaft to the rear of an E30 driveshaft since it's shorter and get them re-balanced together. I have a complete E28 driveshaft stored away so its just the matter of pulling the E30 driveshaft out and getting it to the driveshaft shop. I will also add a new CSB and shifter bushings for good measure.

If I get that all done and its still February then I'm going to start gathering some v-band flanges+clamps to start on the downpipe. I need a new rad and to finish up some small other things and maybe i'll be slowly driving (or limping) around the block by march.........yay!

Twas a busy day today....I decided to try these local guys to build me a clutch...they have been around for years and specialize in european imports and other clutch rebuilding. I got a very good deal on a setup that will hold upto ~490ft/lbs at the wheels and a sprung 4-button ceramic disc. It should be finished by friday so I will take some pictures then. If i remember..

Their site is: http://www.euro-drive.com/ . Really nice guys.

Over the weekend i changed all the shifter related bushsings since I still have the motor out and changed the transmission oil. I also dropped off my driveshaft to a shop that will change both u-joints with servicable ones and get the new driveshaft mix rebalanced. I also dropped my flywheel to get resurfaced as well so If i get everything back by friday I shall be installing the motor+driveline this weekend! This will be the first time the car will be mobile with the m30....But is still not exactly drivable yet.

Almost forgot....for the MS gurus here if somebody could take a look at one of my datalogs i have of my motor idling...just to see if i can get the improve on the idle or not since I am not using an ICV. I will put up the file shortly.

Just post up your log and your msq and I'll take a look.

Finally able to get my laptop working....I left it outside in the car in the -15degC weather...ooops

heres the datalog:
http://rapidshare.com/files/194038685/compar.xls.html

and the MSQ:
http://rapidshare.com/files/194038686/E ... k.msq.html

Well, my clutch came in today....heres a pic:



ooooooo yellow pressure plate....matches my sparkplug wires

Looks like a very nice piece and minutes after taking that pic i ventured outside into the -18degC cold to install the clutch, transmisson and towards the end of the day got it all crammed in back to the e30...It went suprisingly smooth!

I still need to hook up my DS and see if i can cram an m20 rad in there...

That looks like a nice clutch. I like that it is a sprung hub disc. Mind if I ask how much it set you back?

I've run a couple clutches that "looked" that way before as far as the color on the pressure plate (manufacturer?) and the color of the friction material. I realise this depends on the pressure plate stiffness, but I remember thinking they were real grabby and held great power, but if you slip them much the flywheel kinda gets chewed up and the friction material starts chunking up a bit. There's not a whole lot of material to wear down before it gets to the rivets. Good luck hope it works well.

e30-m30_kid89 wrote:Well, my clutch came in today....heres a pic:



ooooooo yellow pressure plate....matches my sparkplug wires

Looks like a very nice piece and minutes after taking that pic i ventured outside into the -18degC cold to install the clutch, transmisson and towards the end of the day got it all crammed in back to the e30...It went suprisingly smooth!

I still need to hook up my DS and see if i can cram an m20 rad in there...

you actually go outside in those temps???
work on cars out side??? doesnt flesh freeze to steel.

mind you at the 32 dergee C 95% humidity we have at the
mo,that sounds like i want to buy a plane ticket

ps,nice clutch

Hahha, Id rather deal with the hot temps than the frigid cold temps..but we've caught a break (somewhat) its now 2degC here which is as good as its going to get in the middle of feburary.

Brad, with taxes and new pilot/throwout bearings it ran me a hair over 500cad. It was local so no shipping however.

I picked up a Spec stg 4, which is a 6 puck sprung hub for a little over $400usd from LMPerformance. So, about the same price but more ceramic pads. If your 4 puck is going to slip, it will tear the flywheel up before the clutch.

Stage 4 units are solid center - no springs.

Canuck YYC wrote:Stage 4 units are solid center - no springs.

Whooops! My bad, I meant to say stage 3. It's been a little while since I put it in there.

I was looking at the spec Stg3 for awhile but after calculating and pricing it out it would've came out to a lot more then buying the clutch I got locally after factoring in duties/ups' brokerage aka rape fees and other taxes.

I have everything buttoned up and ready to go! The engine bay looks srs! But there is a problem with the wiring and the injectors and fuel pump are not getting power. On the MS side of things everything is perfecto so i just gotta do some troubleshooting and she should be ready to rip! lol. Pics tommrow.

She moves!

I fixed the problem on my harness and after toying with the idle a bit i took her down the street for a low-speed run just to see if everything is okay with the driveline. I really like the clutch its super grabby and just a bit stiffer than stock. it's VERY streetable. I did a few rips up and down the street with the open exhaust (i can really hear the turbo spool loud with it open) No wot pulls and just a hair into boost because i want to have my laptop with me to see whats going on.

Here she is some what buttoned up. I just need to do little things here and there and start on the exhaust. and i need one of those power inverter things so i can carry my laptop with me since it's battery really sucks.





It's a werid cool new feeling to say im a owner/builder of a turbo'd BMW!

Man, that 3" IC piping is huge. Is the hood going to close? Glad you are so close to experiencing boost!

When you made the adapter, what size weld els did you use?

Also, are you going to be able to squeeze a filter in there? You going to mount it down low?

Yeah if I were to order the elbows all over again I would've just gone with 2.25 or 2.5. The hood can still close its just a tight squeeze. It will fit for sure once i get my adjustable FPR.

George the weld-els pipe diameter was about 1.6" ID.

Oh and i still need add a spot for my Bosch re-circ valve that im gonna just vent to atmosphere.

e30-m30_kid89 wrote:Yeah if I were to order the elbows all over again I would've just gone with 2.25 or 2.5. The hood can still close its just a tight squeeze. It will fit for sure once i get my adjustable FPR.

George the weld-els pipe diameter was about 1.6" ID.

Oh and i still need add a spot for my Bosch re-circ valve that im gonna just vent to atmosphere.

You want me to make an adapter for you that relocates the stock FPR?

If you can and have the time, yes please PM me the details and I can send you a paypal by the end of this week.

Brad, as for the turbo's inlet the space is very tight so i may just throw some mesh over it to protect it from crap getting it and just leave it like that.

I'll pm you in the morning with the details

Perfect! thanks!

Hi, im new at this page, ive always owned E30´s but till now make my E30 M30 conversion. I´m going to turbo my m30 but dont know what exhaust manifold to use, seeing you built your own maby you could help me with ideas! my only problem is that my turbo needs to be mounted further back to be able to fit the afm in front of it and an air filter so the turbo flange needs to be about in between cyl6 and 5 also top mounted. Thanks I will really appreciate your help!! have all the parts laying around for months now and cant resolve the manifold issue!

Okay Turbo is good! BUT i have or had a new problem.

Detonation, Over the loud noise of the turbine i finally reconginzed it but it may be too late..sorta. whoops....

When the motor is cold and warming up things are fine. After its warm the car runs and idles like crap and my cooling system is pressurized after some positive pressure. I'm not losing any coolant and its not overheating. once the engine cools and i start it again all is well.

Might be a long shot but I never re-torqued the head after being fully warm since i had no coolant at the time and did not want it to over heat. Worth a try to re-torque?

I sorta don't mind having to do the HG cause it's a beautiful opportunity to throw in some studs.

I know a compression tester would tell me what exactly is going on in there but I don't have access to one at the moment.

If it matters, going on my datalogs the most boost seen was only 7-8psi.

its OFFICIAL, my HG is blown

Got a question....Would the S38 HG work on the m30? I remember reading somewhere somebody was using one and that it allows more coolant flow, But the main reason I ask is because looking up some parts sites the S38 gasket is a lot cheaper than the stock m30 gasket. Suprising to me..

e30-m30_kid89 wrote:Got a question....Would the S38 HG work on the m30? I remember reading somewhere somebody was using one and that it allows more coolant flow, But the main reason I ask is because looking up some parts sites the S38 gasket is a lot cheaper than the stock m30 gasket. Suprising to me..

I wouldn't use an s38 gasket. Throw the .08 MLS on with some ARP studs and call it a day.

I'm sorta scared of the MLS since i see people sometimes having trouble with them sealing. If the s38 gasket is no good then I'll just throw on a stock gasket with the ARPs and turn up the boost a bit

Where are you guys getting your studs from? Found one vendor on ebay with some good prices compared to VAC and TCD so I may get them from there.