MyE28.com

T_C_D wrote:

bornagain wrote:
Your tps needs to read from 0-100.

Are you sure about that? Really sure? If you are going to be obnoxious than you better be right.

He is correct, in megasquirt a properly working tps reads the values as 0 idle and like 100 full throttle. Unlike most vehicles where the idle is around 25% or what have you.

For your timing, set idle advance to 0 across the board, so it idles at 0 advance just for a second, and make sure the timing mark is right on the 0 on the timing covers. It's the only mark BMW gives you since you can't set timing, but this a quick and dirty way to check it.

If it were me I wouldn't worry about the tps stuff yet, lets get sensors working right, lets get configuration 100 percent, and get that base map correct. The ve map is really weird, and I don't see how it came from a working map, I think it was not a good starting point IMO.

Scottinva wrote:

T_C_D wrote:

bornagain wrote:
Your tps needs to read from 0-100.

Are you sure about that? Really sure? If you are going to be obnoxious than you better be right.

He is correct, in megasquirt a properly working tps reads the values as 0 idle and like 100 full throttle. Unlike most vehicles where the idle is around 25% or what have you.

I think you need to talk with the master.

Your incorrect, when you calibrate your TPS at idle that given value is the number for 0 TPS. Also meaning 0 throttle, which would be idle, so on the chart with megasquirt it will show 0 as a TPS value when you are off the gas, stating 0 throttle. Full throttle is self explanitory. If your megasquirt says other than 0, your closed loop operation will not function properly. This is due to megasquirt thinking you are on the throttle.

Scottinva wrote:Your incorrect, when you calibrate your TPS at idle that given value is the number for 0 TPS. Also meaning 0 throttle, which would be idle, so on the chart with megasquirt it will show 0 as a TPS value when you are off the gas, stating 0 throttle. Full throttle is self explanitory. If your megasquirt says other than 0, your closed loop operation will not function properly. This is due to megasquirt thinking you are on the throttle.

Hold on. Datalogging position is not calibrating the throttle postion. The datalog scales the actual position to show 0-100 but the actual signal is different.

I rarely contribute to the MS musings but several posters act like experts and chastise others without cause. It's not helpful and it's confusing.

Basic MS questions unrelated to actual tuning for boost would be much better handled on the MS message board.

talltorontoguy wrote:It's not the airbox, it's the water to air intercooler.



.

Look great, glad you made it fit! Looking forward to meeting you at TedFest.

As Todd rightfully pointed out it probably should be on the MS board - but since we're on it I think Todd is correct.

In Tunerstudio, the TPS calibration works on the basis of ADC values at closed and WOT. Megsquirt notes those as 0 and 100%, and then computes the range in % of WOT as throttle is depressed and ADC values change.

MS1 with Megatune used the 0% to 100%. A friend of mine just converted to MS2 / Tunerstudio and his TPS calibration (which used to be 0% to 100%) is now the same values as mine (ADC).

While calibrating in tunerstudio, when TPS is closed my ADC value is 114 and at WOT 914 (with a total span of 800). Megasquirt converts the absolute ADC value (position) at any given time into a % of the total span. So if my throttle were depressed 1/2 way, it should be an ADC value of 400 (1/2 way between 114 and 914) which is read as 50% by MS.

The %'s show up when you view the logs in Megalog viewer which seems to validate the above theory.

Back to tuning...

T_C_D wrote:

talltorontoguy wrote:It's not the airbox, it's the water to air intercooler.



.

Look great, glad you made it fit! Looking forward to meeting you at TedFest.

It's pretty tight but it fit! Only major mod was I had to shorten the pipe from turbo to intercooler by about 1.5", and use a custom (shorter with no curve) charge pipe. Even used the original mounting tab on the unit.

I haven't cleaned it up all the way yet, but if you look carefully you can see I had it polished to match the charge pipe, BOV, and strut bar.

Will be at Tedfest along with Bruno and Dave.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong but in mlv it shows values of 12 to 188 for me with your msq Loaded under tps%

Where are you looking in MLV? Maybe I'm wrong...

Shot of graph from log below, shows max 98 min -3. Where do I look for the values you're talking about?

Unfortunately I'm at work on my phone so I can see it. But i do appolgize for coming across like an ass. I should remember how hard this shit can be. Anyway if your not seeing a solid base of 0 for tps at idle the your accels are going to fuck up your idle smoothness if not deactivated. I don't get why mlv is reading like that but it must be mine. Now next thing you need to do before tuning anything else is verify timing or everything will have to change after Anyway advance also effects afr. Then get a good base map. I started with Brads then hugely modified it.
But that ve table looks messed to me .

We can all be asses from time to time. Don't sweat it. Appreciate the help.

Will check timing tonight and go from there.

When your at idle you should be at 0 tps, full throttle is 100. I see -3 and 98 I believe on your log, this is wrong.

Scott is right by set your timing first the recal your tps then take a look at your ignition table and use someone elses if to want I can send you mine. Then do some auto tuning.

Hi

I'll take you up on your offer of the timing table. I'm working on the car right now so will come in handy. talltorontoguy @ hotmail com

Thanks!

Recalibrated the TPS.
Recreated VE table from bornagain's earlier post. Used AFR and ignition map from megasquirt faq (big bronze rim).

Car ran much worse than before, super lean AFR, off the scale. Used autotune and it started bringing the VE figures back to the same high levels they were at before to drop the AFR except it still ran horribly.

Gave up and switched back to old msq so it's at least driveable, even with the light blowout under heavy load.

Looking forward to seeing some tables / msq from people with same build as me so I can compare.

- m30b35, stock.
- 42lb injectors
- megasquirt 2 extra v 3.03s
- stock idle control valve
- GM iat sensor
- oem clt sensor
- stock ignition

R

Post your new msq, with a new log. We'll get it sorted.

http://www.mediafire.com/?50zuyzwywyb
http://www.mediafire.com/?mzz4d4zynft

the first one is my ve table but it might not work with what you have going on but you can try it. the second is the ignition map and its been good to me with 16psi and no det with a verified timing, this car is a b32 but my map is merely a modified version of brads with a more m30 BMW appropriate 4- 4.5 g section. mean from the factory these cars are dialed way back around 4000 rpm to help mid section torque.

Bornagain thanks for posting those. Could you also post your AFR table? That way I can try to re-create your tune on my project.

Below is the msq I tried to run tonight. Unfortunately I didn't log this session...

http://www.mediafire.com/?tyn2jz0nrn2

Try 300 cranking rpm. Also your amounts for accel enrich seems very high. It's hard to judge since its off feel. However my values are all under .5MS. My reqfuel is much higher but even still your values seem huge. Also to give you an idea of warmup enrichment, I am into the 160 range at 50 degrees, and get up to 172 at -37. You need way more warmup enrichment. As for idle advance, your "and CLT is above" is set at 170F or something. That means you aren't getting that idle advance until your warm! Thats terrible!

I dont want to sound like a jerk, but you really need to do some reading, you aren't going to learn anything plugging other peoples stuff into your msq and expecting it to work. I want to help you, but I think your at the point where, you dont really understand the chances your being told to make. Head over to the megasquirt forums, and read the ms2extra tuning guides and stuff.

Verified timing, setting advance 0 degrees fixed and checking TDC mark. Was perfect.

Guys I'm a noob to MS. I'm trying to learn. I'm reading like crazy. One of the ways I learn is to compare what I have to what others have done to see if there some gross mistake in settings.

I've read your posts from a year or two ago during my research and saw many similar noob questions from you... so - please remember where you were when you started with this.

Now I'm going into another session of various settings and suggestions made.

Thank you all for your help - seriously.

Thanks
R

have you tried playing with your injection staging? i run 2 squirts alternating but i am only running off of one bank. All six injectors are on one bank. so its really just 1 squirt simultaneous. and i am also running a much higher injection base of 7.2 with 62lb injectors. So if you uped your base injection then the plots would work better with my ve table. i would almost try 3 injections simultaneous and see if that helps smooth it out or 6 alternating and see if that helps smooth it.

Made a lot of changes this weekend and had some success.

1st verified timing. It was correct. Ran tooth logger and it looked as it should. I remedied the afterstart enrichment, acceleration enrichment, cold advance, and closed loop idle settings. Dropped dwell from 3.5 to 3. I ran a new ignition timing map (less advance) and then retuned VE table using autotune in tunerstudio.

Car is running pretty good overall. Idles decently. Has what feels like a light stumble at 2500 RPM when cruising, but otherwise pulls hard to redline. I'll keep refining but think I'm pretty close now - thanks mostly to input from those on this board.

I've attached links to the msq and a log file for anyone that cares to view and provide constructive feedback. It still needs refinement, have only run autotune for a short time.

Bornagain - I didn't get into the injector settings but I will look at that in the future. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks everyone for all your help. Being a noob ain't easy...

Rod

msq http://www.mediafire.com/?xjzdjzzzc1r

log http://www.mediafire.com/?yxzgtyoqzy0

looking good!

Is the car still out in K/W or back in pickering?

I wouldn't mind driving out to see it!

Back in Pickering now. Couldn't take those drives anymore.

I'm planning to attend the next Durham cruise next Sunday - why don't we meet up there?

Try dialing down your cranking pulsewidths, yours are very high. You have two 170 degree points, you see how one is like 101, adn the other is like 120. This is giving a lottttt of fuel when your cranking, and i'd bet it's making the car stumble. for example for those 170 degree temps try like 101, you barely need any cranking fuel when the engine is hot. at 140 degrees or so i'd say around 120-130, and at like -13 like 160. Your cranking pulsewidths are huge.

I made the change to bring down the cranking pulse width as you suggested.

I'm a little confused though as to why cranking pulsewidth would affect an already running engine (i.e. not while cranking). That's where I'm getting the stumble - when cruising at light/steady throttle between 2000 and 3000 RPM after car is warmed up.

When I'm on it heavy, car pulls fine.

Cranking pulsewidth is just that, it's the main guy that gets the car started. So your right this setting is not affecting how your car is driving, I ment stumbling when you were cranking. One issue at a time =D