M30B34 Valve adjustment clarifications

[tn535i]

I would set to spec. The ones with more wear will not generate the same lift as others but this will probably be mostly a WOT imbalance and not noticed at idle or cruising speed. If it were my car I would not do a lot of WOT runs to redline with less than good condition motor anyway.

[BRRV]

I would set to spec. The ones with more wear will not generate the same lift as others but this will probably be mostly a WOT imbalance and not noticed at idle or cruising speed. If it were my car I would not do a lot of WOT runs to redline with less than good condition motor anyway.

Yep. Good post.

And let me tell you that making them tighter, even down to .010, will just accelerate the wear. It will be quieter, but you'll be replacing it sooner rather than later. I know this for a fact, since that's what I did to get rid of the noise. My advice? Live with the noise.

And WOT to redline on these cars makes no sense if you look at the HP and torque specs. I always shift before 5500 rpm and never hit redline deliberately, since both peak horsepower and peak torque occur before that point anyway. I seem to recall torque peaks at roughly 5200 rpm, horsepower before that. I err on the side of not turning an engine into a grenade.

[trevmmeister]

Both good posts, and I can assure yall that woting to redline wont be a problem. I get plenty of thrown back in the seat satisfaction far before redline. when casually cruising(not very often), I shift at about 2500-2750. when I feel like getting up and GOING, I shift at about 4500 and I dont even open the throt to full, maybe 3/4 throt.

and yeah, setting them all to spec at the valves did quiet it down from where it was before my first adjustment. and how it is now, I can easily live with. Things I need to focus on right now is installing my giubo and CTS that I recieved today, as well as getting a new set of tires as my fronts are near the end and my rears are not too far behind.

once again, I really appreciate all the great info and tips that I have recieved in this thread. Have learned soooo much. you guys are great.

[tig]

Other than headers/exhaust this curve shows a standard M30B34 in good operating condition. Letting the motor spin beyond 5300-5500 is pointless.

[trevmmeister]

So 4000-4300 seems to be the ideal shift point for getting the most torque.. very interesting, I never really knew how to read dyno charts but I think I get it now. thanks for sharing that.

[waynet1]

when I feel like getting up and GOING, I shift at about 4500 and I dont even open the throt to full, maybe 3/4 throt.

Do you really expect anyone here to believe such a statement ? My 82 year old mother wouldn't even say such a thing.

[trevmmeister]

Ok 7/8, MAYBE.

[BRRV]

I learned to drive in Europe, where, at the time, most people drove four cylinder cars that were driven hard, with a stick. I was taught to drive "on the cam", shifting so that you would wind up right at the point where the cam "comes on" it's power curve, at a certain rpm, up to maximum torque, which usually was below redline. Both FIAT and Alfa fours are like this - either SOHC or DOHC. As I recall, so was the M10. To me, thrashing an engine beyond that point is really unnecessary. I always feel the power in an M30B34 comes on at about 3000-3200 rpm, so I try to match shift to stay on or around that threshold through the gears if I'm trying to stay on the power. Obviously, not always possible, and I can be counted on to short-shift and drive like an old man with a hat on around town quite often, just because these cars can do that. Shifting at around 3000 rpm really emphasizes the efficiency of these engines, which I think were very good for their day.

[trevmmeister]

I learned to drive in Europe, where, at the time, most people drove four cylinder cars that were driven hard, with a stick. I was taught to drive "on the cam", shifting so that you would wind up right at the point where the cam "comes on" it's power curve, at a certain rpm, up to maximum torque, which usually was below redline. Both FIAT and Alfa fours are like this - either SOHC or DOHC. As I recall, so was the M10. To me, thrashing an engine beyond that point is really unnecessary. I always feel the power in an M30B34 comes on at about 3000-3200 rpm, so I try to match shift to stay on or around that threshold through the gears if I'm trying to stay on the power. Obviously, not always possible, and I can be counted on to short-shift and drive like an old man with a hat on around town quite often, just because these cars can do that. Shifting at around 3000 rpm really emphasizes the efficiency of these engines, which I think were very good for their day.

+1. I have found that shifting mid-4000 so that you land back around mid-3000 works very well for driving like a bat out of hell.



Picture is upside down idk why. But yeah, that was a pain in the ass, but I didnt drop my exhaust, so that didnt help.

[tn535i]

It looks like you have the downpipe from an autobox car. Cut that support bar off the exhaust and gain yourself a little more elbow room. It's not doing anything anyway.

[trevmmeister]

yeah I was wondering what the point of that thing, other than smashing the side/back of my hand on it while removing all six bolts. my dad must have accidentally bought the wrong stock exhaust kit a few years ago.