MyE28.com

MrHill wrote:I couldn't get it in. The tensioner wouldn't budge. Even loosened

Some are giving you some heat and yanking your double row chain... I get that but I'v also been in your shoes too soo... still willing to try to help.

First, are you really, really, sure the t-belt is in good condition?

Have you studied some of the really good write up on blet replacement?

I would not recommend changing the tensioner setting(meaning don't loosen the bolts) but if you must there are two. However even if you loosen both the pivot and locking this won't necessarily help you because the spring will push the tensioner back out against the belt and you are still fighting the spring to get the pump back in proper place.

Are you sure you can't place the spring fully up into the tensioner pin, locate the spring in the pump recess, then leverage the pump into place and place a bolt to hold it while getting all the other bolts in? I have done that once before when a pump failed on me not long after a belt change.

If you must, must loosen the tensioner you have to be sure nothing rotates. Keep some tension on the belt as you take it off and over the tensioner. It's not advised though. Then remove the tensioner, put the new WP in place, replace and compress the tensioner and tighten only the lock screw so you have enough slack to re-install the belt, loosen the lockscrew, rotate the engine with crank nut a minimum of four or more full revolutions, tighten the tensioner lock screw then pivot bolt, then proceed with the rest of front end re-installation.

I don't reccoment this but I don't believe that re-tensioning a belt like this will result in sudden and soon failure. These belts don't "stretch" and re-tensioning should not hurt at all. It's not needed but the spring does not have enough force to hurt anything either.

If the belt has been nicked or damaged in ANY way during this process then you should replace it though and do the whole thing.

If you goal is to keep this car 'forever' then replace the belt and do it all right from scratch. If your goal is to get it running again and you have your sights on something else down the road then proceed.

Thanks for all your negative posts, but despite them I got it back on the road, MYSELF. Just a ticking that I don't remember hearing before hand. Runs fine, no overheating, not rough.
Thank you tn535i

It is best to replace the belt if you have removed tension from it. If the car appears to have survived the massive overheat (best to do a compression test) I would suggest going back in and doing the timing belt. Unfortunately I did not see the post in time to comment before you pulled the pump, but maybe this will help future readers:

When replacing the pump without replacing the timing belt, retract the pin with a prying device and then grab the tensioner pin with a pair of vise grips to lock it in place. When you remove the pump, you won't have to fight the pin back into place and you won't lose the spring. Once the pump is back in, release the pliers and the pin will spring back. Since it only tensions the tensioner for the initial setting with the bolts loose, this won't affect the timing belt at all.

tsmall07 wrote:

MrHill wrote:Oh I whacked the shit out of it. Put it on a vice, and started whackin, tried tightening it also to try to get it to move. Didn't budge a bit

Probably worth it just to get a new clutch for your new WP at that point. Never tighten the fan with a wrench. I just spin it on until it stops. Also, use anti-seize.

Never knew this. Now I do. Thanks for the tip.

"Whacked the shit outta it" - nightly

The vice part sounds kinky though.

MrHill wrote:... ticking ...

Valve and piston music, I hope not.

Best of luck.

1st 5er wrote:

MrHill wrote:... ticking ...

Valve and piston music, I hope not.

Best of luck.

Possibly just rocker noise. Worst case scenario, it needs a motor at some point soon. You've got it running, so you could just keep going to see how it does. Couldn't hurt to check the valve adjustment.

MrHill wrote:Thanks for all your negative posts, but despite them I got it back on the road, MYSELF. Just a ticking that I don't remember hearing before hand. Runs fine, no overheating, not rough.
Thank you tn535i

Glad it worked out. Next time you know there is a problem, don't keep driving. It will only make things worse.