Noob M30B35 Build

[tig]

Oh awesome! Congratulations to him, I just graduated high school myself last month. Good to hear, where is the list of parts that are being coated again? Forget what page that was on.

From memory:

• Subframe (black)
• Air filter housing (black) (i'll probably sell this)
• Oil filter housing
• Alternator housing
• Thermostat housing
• ICV bracket
• throttle body
• A spare B34 intake manifold; I'll sell it

[trevmmeister]

Oh awesome! Congratulations to him, I just graduated high school myself last month. Good to hear, where is the list of parts that are being coated again? Forget what page that was on.

From memory:

• Subframe (black)
• Air filter housing (black) (i'll probably sell this)
• Oil filter housing
• Alternator housing
• Thermostat housing
• ICV bracket
• throttle body
• A spare B34 intake manifold; I'll sell it

How much will you be selling the intake and air filter housing for? I will be rebuilding my M30B34 soon(head/crank/pistons) but i will probably just clean my head/cover/block/oil pan.

[jodystevens]

What did you use to clean the wheel wells and such?

[tig]

What did you use to clean the wheel wells and such?

Getting cosmoline off can be a real bitch. I spent DOZENS of hours on the 911. I used a combination of diesel, P21S Total Auto Wash, various degreasers, and a LOT of elbow grease.

I have since found that a steam cleaner can go a long way towards helping. But you have to be patient.

I found this thread useful:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche- ... t-off.html

[ldsbeaker]

What did you use to clean the wheel wells and such?

Getting cosmoline off can be a real bitch. I spent DOZENS of hours on the 911. I used a combination of diesel, P21S Total Auto Wash, various degreasers, and a LOT of elbow grease.

I have since found that a steam cleaner can go a long way towards helping. But you have to be patient.

I found this thread useful:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche- ... t-off.html

I just got lost in there. Thank you.

[tig]

I think I found the firewall insulation I'm going to use.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PI ... =ceklog-20



A quick wipe with Wurth Clean Solve takes the logo right off:



It's thinner than the OEM stuff, but actually sturdier.

I have some 1/4" thick neophrene insulation I found too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ID ... UTF8&psc=1



I think I'll put it under the Thermo-Tec stuff to get back to the OEM material's thickness. It's closed-cell rubber and even though theres' no heat rating for it, since it will be behind the Thermo-Tec it should work great for additional noise insulation.

In other news, got all the stuff back from powder coating. As usually Powdervision did a great job.



The strut bar came out great. I considered doing it black, but think the aluminum will look sweet.





It is now just slightly more OcCoupe worthy:



I had them powder coat the intake manifold that came off the donor motor just to make it more valuable for selling; to recoup some of the powdercoating costs. Who wants it? $200.

[tig]

Glad I have two other throttles lying around so I could make sure I put it back together correctly.



I modified the attachment bracket for the oil level sensor connector. For an E32 it mounts on the back side of the motor mount (because the motor mount on that car is further forward. So on the E28 it's flipped around. I drilled a new hole so it would clear the oil filter housing.

[tig]

Steering box mounted to refurbished subframe.



When I pulled the 140A alternator apart I found that this thingy (called "CONDESER" in the parts diagram) was falling apart. The plastic housing had deteriorated and the soldier joint was hanging on by a thread. I re-soldiered it and used F4 tape to re-insulate it. Now I'm *really* glad I pulled this alternator apart because that part was THIS close to failing.



Plus, it just LOOKS FRAKING FANTASTIC!





If I were anal retentive or had even mild OCD I would have used new screws, or gotten the old ones plated.

I'm gonna take it up to the auto parts store to get it tested to ensure I didn't break anything or screw something up putting it back together. Better safe than sorry.

[tig]

I've lost my flywheel. If anyone knows where I set it, I'd appreciate you telling me. Kthxbai.

[tig]

I got the parts for cooling the alternator. Elbow & flex pipe go with an E32. Headlight backing is from the left side on an 528e.

I'll need to make the hole in the headlight backing a little bigger for the pip to fit, and as long as it's long enough I think it'll work great. Won't know for sure until motor is in the car.



Started putting everything on the engine. I was waiting for a few parts and now am unblocked.









Getting to this point was a huge amount of work for me today. I had to re-wrap some wires, struggle with how the fuel rail/injector electrical harness, etc all went on. Then realized I failed to put the hose from the ICV the intake manifold in and needed to remove it all again.

The stuff up top (AFM etc...) is just test fit with one or two nuts in place for now.

Next step will be the small vacuum and fuel lines.

Question: On the breather pipe from the rubber piece between the throttle and AFM that goes to the valve cover there's a little nipple. The parts diagram does not show this nipple. The E32 this motor came off of didn't have an AFM so I don't have a picture of where it was connected. Whelp!?!?

Thanks.

[e28Sean]

Wow.

[Kyle in NO]

The nipple from the breather pipe connects to the underside of the intake manifold, along with the FPR hose and intake temp sensor hose.

[tig]

The nipple from the breather pipe connects to the underside of the intake manifold, along with the FPR hose and intake temp sensor hose.

Thanks Kyle. There are two small nipples and one large on the bottom of intake manifold.

One goes to the nipple on the breather pipe as you indicate.

What is the intake temp sensor? Is it the thingy that is mounted to the bottom of the intake manifold that has a connection to the wiring harness and a nipple on each side (one small & one large)? Parts diagram calls this Fuel Tank Breather Valve. Just to the right of center in the 2nd to last pic above. #17 here:

http://www.realoem.com./bmw/showparts.d ... g=16&fg=10

I think.

Looks like the large nipple goes to the large nipple under the intake maninfold? I'm guessing the small one goes to the charcoal canister.

Then the 2nd small nipple on the bottom of the manifold is connected to the FPR.

Right? I've been wrenching non-stop all day and am fading, so appreciate your help even more.

I take it "FPR hose" means "vacuum hose to the FPR"?

[DJM1986-5]

The FPR regulator vacuum hose goes to one small nipple. The other small nipple is used to connect inside temp sensor.the goes to the drivers footwell. The fuel tank valve large side connects to the intake manifold just below throttle body. The small side goes to the charcoal cannister. I used vacuum line for this connection to the cannister and used a 1/8 to 1/4 inch plastic tube fitting to connect the vacuum line to the fuel line at the cannister. Looks 'factory" and is much easier to run smaller vacuum line. I attached the valve under the manifold to the manifold support bracket bolt using the small L bracket for that valve. Again, looks factory plus the harness and hoses all run easily to this location and it's up and out of the way. I should have taken pictures but was beating the clock on getting my build ready for the Vintage in Winston Salem. Hope this helps...
oh, I plugged the nipple on the breather hose from the valve cover to the intake plenum. I ran out of intake manifold vacuum connections and the other two...fpr and internal temp sensor require vacuum feeds. The breather hose was least important in my opinion.

[Kyle in NO]

Yes, I meant the vacuum hose for the FPR. Also, interior temp sensor, not intake temp. It's been a long day...

[DJM1986-5]

I knew what you meant but figured I'd add clarification for cek and future reference.

[trevmmeister]

Question: there's a little nipple. show this nipple.

The nipple

Thanks Kyle. two small nipples. goes to the nipple. a nipple on each side. the large nipple. 2nd small nipple

one small nipple. other small nipple. vacuum. beating the clock. I plugged the nipple

Guys. Come on. Family-friendly site here. c;

[tig]

I think my flywheel is still at my machinist, who was to check its balance. At least that's what occurred to me at about 3am this morning.

Happy Father's day to all you dads.

[tig]

I have figured out what each coolant hose is for. I think. I'm not as confident on which end goes where though, particularly for the smaller lines that go to the heater and heater control valve. I'm missing the tee (and I don't want to pull it off of Vlad's B34 because those hoses are relatively new and I'd like to leave them intact), so I can't hook everything up today as I had hoped.





Question: The B35 fuel rail has the fuel inlet facing the front of the engine. How is the fuel line supposed to be routed? Down through the middle space on the intake manifold and then back to the supply? Anyone have a pic of a B35 with this detail showing?

[tig]

While you all work on answering my previous question, I'm sorting out how to mount my IE AFR.

The B34 intake manifold has some mount points that were sorta convenient. The B35 doesn't.

I'm considering getting rid of the hose between the AFR and the fuel-rail mounty thing and finding some brass fittings that would allow me to just mount it directly. One less hose with clamps to deal with and should be low enough to clear the hood. Good idea? Bad idea?

[wkohler]

Why do you need an adjustable FPR? You're going to run a WAR chip, right?

[tig]

Why do you need an adjustable FPR? You're going to run a WAR chip, right?

Maybe. But initially I'm running the stock 179 ECU and AFM. Since this is a high-comp engine with 24lb injectors, Paul Burke recommended that I have an AFPR, at least initially. I also have a wide band gauge (actually two).

[wkohler]

Okay. I've got a friend that had three of those fail before he ditched them and got the war chip, 24# injectors, a stock regulator and a dyno tune. He said the tuning was best money he had spent on the car.

Motor looks great, btw.

[tig]

Okay. I've got a friend that had three of those fail before he ditched them and got the war chip, 24# injectors, a stock regulator and a dyno tune. He said the tuning was best money he had spent on the car.

Motor looks great, btw.

As soon as I have it broken in, I'm taking it in for a dyno tune and will likely got with a War chip at that point.

[tig]

I started with the 1/4" neoprene for sound deadening. It doesn't matter that it's not cut perfectly because the Thermo-tec will go over it



Turned out great!



I ended up doing more of the driver's side because....well why not?

The insulation on this fuel cooler thingy was shot. Since I have headers and they get super hot I felt it was worth while replacing the insulation. I started with some pipe insulation...



Then wrapped it in Thermo-tec; you can see it blurry on the left of this pic.



Now the subframe goes back on...

[tig]

Subframe in.



That's all the Father's day Gods will let me get done today, I think. Have to go to a grad party for someone else's kid.

[tig]

Is there anything special or different that needs to be done when adjusting the valves on a brand new head? Just standard cold procedure?

[Mike W.]

Is there anything special or different that needs to be done when adjusting the valves on a brand new head? Just standard cold procedure?

I'm not certain that torquing the head down doesn't change things a bit, so I'd suggest the final adjustment after the head is bolted down tight. Other than that it's the same.

[pldlnr]

I am pretty sure the head gasket comes with instructions on the torque procedures. It will usually includes a final torque after initial start-up and a heat cycle. Adjust the valves before the first start-up and then again after it cools down completely (overnight).

[Mike W.]

I am pretty sure the head gasket comes with instructions on the torque procedures. It will usually includes a final torque after initial start-up and a heat cycle. Adjust the valves before the first start-up and then again after it cools down completely (overnight).

The second adjustment is not necessary IMO, and I've done a bunch.