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Posted: Apr 11, 2014 12:59 AM
by 1st 5er
wkohler wrote:Image

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Now I understand why you didn't answer my text. :cool:

Posted: Apr 11, 2014 1:01 AM
by wkohler
I don't understand since I never received a text from you.

Posted: Apr 11, 2014 1:03 AM
by 1st 5er
And now?

It's all good though, I was kinda hoping I didn't have to make the trip.

Posted: Apr 11, 2014 1:06 AM
by wkohler
It came through now but it's the first text I ever received from your number. :?

You didn't miss a thing. Trust me.

Posted: Apr 11, 2014 1:12 AM
by 1st 5er
1st 5er wrote:It's all good though, I was kinda hoping I didn't have to make the trip.


I've always had sort of an itch for a Super ETA 5 speed.
A schwarz'ie will show up one day, if it's supposed to be. ;)

Posted: Apr 11, 2014 9:26 AM
by JSmoove
We are finally getting nice weather here in Iowa so I finished up the caliper rebuild of the big brake upgrade I purchased off of Ray in Phoenix awhile back. That was my first time trying a rebuild. It certainly takes practice but I think I've got a good system now.

Tomorrow I plan to tackle installing master and slave clutch cylinders. The fluid in the lines was so old with absorbed moisture that when I tried depressing the clutch this past February, the master cylinder plunger snapped in half. I'm thinking the line was partially frozen. The projects just keep coming with this one :(

Posted: Apr 11, 2014 5:54 PM
by Chimi-Changa
Valve adjustment yesterday, after reading a few threads here-went with .011 on the cam with straight feeler gooahj.

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Posted: Apr 11, 2014 7:17 PM
by GBel
After a very long cold snowy winter I put the battery back in and she started right up and within 2 min ran at a perfect idle. Tomorrow Remove the TRX wheels that it is stored on, clean hubs and brakes and mount style 5s. Then prepare for clay barring.

Gary

86M535I

Posted: Apr 11, 2014 7:36 PM
by tig
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Stock M30B34 w/ 178k miles
Stock 059 ECU chip & AFM
Bavauto headers
Ireland Engineering exhaust

172.72 rwhp & 188.01 rwhtq

More details later in Vlad's thread.

Posted: Apr 11, 2014 8:45 PM
by oldskool
Niiiice. . .

Posted: Apr 12, 2014 10:49 PM
by dsmith
a/c and abs removed. Not much left in the engine bay.

Anyone want to add abs to their car? :D

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Posted: Apr 13, 2014 12:00 AM
by rollcentre
My buddy built me a nice little s38 engine cradle today.

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Posted: Apr 13, 2014 1:21 AM
by jbelly16
Copped a front spoiler, bracket, foglights brackets, and a drivers side front fender weather guard for $100 bucks from a junkyard :banana:. Too bad the interior is 120% burned up :cry:

Posted: Apr 13, 2014 3:07 PM
by 12valves
Recently I installed new front-to-rear brake and fuel lines on my '82 528e using stainless tubing from Summit. I did the same job on my '83 633CSi last fall. This time was a bit more difficult because half of the little screws that clamp the lines to the floor stripped or broke off, so I ruined some screwdrivers and drill bits and made a couple holes in the floor. Before, I had the driveshaft out at the time which made things a little easier also. It was still possible to snake the lines up through that area although the clamp that is directly above the DS had no hope of being unscrewed and I had to mangle it a little. For the record, the lines were an exact match between these cars. I used two 20' coils of 3/16" and two 20' coils of 5/16" for each car. While I was doing the 528 I also had the e21 brake booster loose to adjust the position a bit and seal a gap in the firewall in an attempt to reduce noise in the cabin.

So with brakes fresh on my mind I removed the booster from my shark today. I have a rebuild kit and I want to put an end to the ATF leakage. Things were going fine until I got to the last thing I would disconnect, the pedal. Pop off the clip, unhook the spring, and the pin will come right out, right? Except no, the pin was fucking frozen. I wrestled with it for a while, with no result except a ton of ATF running all over the ground. One end of the pin became mushroomed. I had to go nuclear on it, and grind it all the way down until it could be pushed through the other way. I think this proves that there is no job that can't go horribly wrong :/

Posted: Apr 13, 2014 7:42 PM
by JBort
Installed my pair of e34 Recaro-Alpina seats!

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Thanks, Ivo!

Posted: Apr 14, 2014 8:32 AM
by jhall
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Yard score Saturday, the roof plus a pair of seats for $40.

Very happy with the result. The part that made me really pause was swapping the headliner piece over to the saab sliding cover. That Really set it off and made everything look like its always been there, which was exactly my intention.

Thanks JBort for the step by step I found on this fine website.

Posted: Apr 14, 2014 2:56 PM
by rollcentre
I'll be attempting to replace the clutch on my m5 Wednesday. Solo...In classic driveway style of course.

I was able to borrow a transmission jack, so that should make my life a little easier.

I am waiting on a set of box-end torx wrenches to arrive (hopefully tomorrow) so I can get to those pesky top bellhousing bolts...unless you guys know of a better way.

Might as well do the CSB and Guibo while im at it... rear main seal and seal carrier, trans seals etc.

I scored a Sachs sport clutch kit for the e34 m5. Drop shipped from Valeo USA for ~350 bucks!

Also got a refurbished flywheel from our favorite ///M parts pusherman from Corona, CA.

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Oh yeah! I got my switches in from Ivo.. and with illumination!
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Yesterday I had a chance to bust out the die grinder and modify the euro valance to work with my guten euro conversion mounts. At some point this week I may try adding the cut outs to the front spoiler for the oil cooler. ..and then there is those holes for the US bumper trim under the grille..ugh.

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My old bottom feeder M5 is starting to come together!

Posted: Apr 14, 2014 3:31 PM
by wkohler
Sweet. Your headlight switch is from an E23. The Euro cars came with the same headlight switch as US. Car is looking good! Good luck with the clutch. Get some bread handy for the pilot bearing.

Posted: Apr 14, 2014 4:06 PM
by rollcentre
wkohler wrote:Sweet. Your headlight switch is from an E23. The Euro cars came with the same headlight switch as US. Car is looking good! Good luck with the clutch. Get some bread handy for the pilot bearing.
Haha! If I can find something that fits in the pilot that I can beat on, I will definitely try the bread thing.

I hear wonder bread works the best. :laugh:

I have a 2 jaw puller/slide hammer apparatus I can borrow from work if need be.

Posted: Apr 14, 2014 4:48 PM
by dsmith
I used the two jaw slide hammer.

Posted: Apr 14, 2014 5:30 PM
by tschultz
Shifter bushing and driveshaft replaced in m535i.

Can't believe I didn't do this sooner.

Posted: Apr 14, 2014 7:52 PM
by wkohler
M535i?

Posted: Apr 14, 2014 10:26 PM
by Nosis
wkohler wrote:M535i?
yea... When did this happen, Tom?

WOT

Posted: Apr 15, 2014 9:07 AM
by fiver diver
I actually hate this thread, because there is so much good information in it that is very difficult to search for! 142 pages, and if you do a forum search on, well, anything, this thread comes up, but then actually finding the searched terms are another challenge.

I get that the idea was to have one convenient place for these sorts of activities, but a separate forum with unique thread titles would yield a trove of useful info. And isn't that the point? ;)

Posted: Apr 15, 2014 11:35 AM
by tschultz
Misspelling, sorry :(


my 535i*

Posted: Apr 15, 2014 10:06 PM
by rollcentre
I got the exhaust and front section of the driveshaft with csb removed!

I got 7 or so of those damn torx bolts busted loose on the transmission bellhousing. There is at least one more that I know of that has me wondering how to proceed.

After I removed the intake plenum(ugh), I saw it!
Its the upper bolt on the driver side, and it is far too close to the firewall to get any tool on. I am thinking that the only way to get at it is drop the engine or pivot the engine down and support the trans with a floor jack...That way I can get at it from the trans tunnel.

I am hoping that I will not need to remove the starter to drop the trans.. I see nothing about it in the Bentley! From what I see it just bolts to the block.

Posted: Apr 15, 2014 10:07 PM
by wkohler
Wobbles and a u-joint for that bolt. Remove the brace that goes across the frame rails and drop the trans as far as it will go. The insulation sags down there too making it more difficult.

Posted: Apr 15, 2014 10:23 PM
by rollcentre
wkohler wrote:Wobbles and a u-joint for that bolt. Remove the brace that goes across the frame rails and drop the trans as far as it will go. The insulation sags down there too making it more difficult.
Ahh I will try this tomorrow. Thanks Chris!

I just pray my input shaft splines are ok :bow:
The clutch seemed to be binding pretty bad lately.

Posted: Apr 15, 2014 10:26 PM
by wkohler
You will probably be fine. Did you get the bolt that's at the very base of the bellhousing at the gear box dead center? I usually miss that one.

Posted: Apr 15, 2014 10:40 PM
by rollcentre
wkohler wrote:You will probably be fine. Did you get the bolt that's at the very base of the bellhousing at the gear box dead center? I usually miss that one.
I do believe I got to all of the ones on the underside. I did notice that there two sizes before I got a chance to strip on out :laugh: