I read somewhere that also if the car is impacted 5g's or harder, all the deadbolts unlock and the hazards turn on automatically. I'm not suggesting you drive into the car, but that must mean there's a shock sensor somewhere that maybe you can manipulate to unlock the doors?
Turning the key will get the system to release the deadbolt on three of the four doors, but there's something stuck on the driver's door. I had read that too, and after screwing with it half the day last Saturday I was about ready to push it off a cliff to see if that trick would work, but common sense prevailed; if the key can't get the system to unlock that one stuck door, a 5G shock won't do it either. I'd bet a sledgehammer or hydraulic spreader might do the job, but... I kinda wanna use the thing afterward.
It's certainly not elegant by any stretch but is destroying the lock an option? If you used a carbide drill bit that you'd normally find in a CNC machine (generally too brittle and requiring more feed and speed than a hand-drill can offer) and chucked it up in a cordless drill, you should be able to drill through the lock cylinder all together (say a .312 or .281" hole 5/16 or 9/32) and use a suitable formerly-screwdriver type "L" or what have you to manipulate the linkages without fear of breaking the key off. At least that way you get the door open clearing the path to removing the door panel and repairing things inside. I would've course have a new/replacement cylinder at hand before charging forward. Just a thought.
I forgot to add...this deadlock thing seems like an answer to a question nobody asked. If I'm going to take something from your car, why would I let the glass stand in my way? Surely there's little carried and left in the passenger compartment that I couldn't extract through a (broken) side window. Locks only keep honest people out anyway.
I futzed around for way too long trying to get the #*&$^&ing door card off, which only resulted in bumming up some of its edges. Finally said "screw it" and broke out the utility knife and cut a hole about 12" long and 3" high just above the armrest. Yes, now I'll have to deal with that, but if I hadn't done that I'd still be screwing around trying to get at the card.
Once the hole was open, the servo was right there. I reached through the open back window & turned the key back & forth a few times with my hand on the servo. When turning to the right (to lock the doors) I could feel the servo clunk, but when unlocking, nothing. So I'm guessing the servo is half dead or there is a wiring problem. I'll do some more testing to see what the real cause is; if it's the servo I should be able to grab a replacement from the e32 or the e34 at the yard and get it back in action. WOOT!
To get it open all I did was remove the two screws holding the servo to the bracket, then push the rod toward the back of the door. Way too easy.
Now for the hard part; pull it apart, clean it up, and put it all back together. I'll post more later with some photos, for posterity.
Congratulations! I am in the process of getting a door ding repaired, and wanted to install a new (or working used) servo to retore the deadbolt action you describe so disparagingly, ... now I wonder if it's worth it!
Congratulations! I am in the process of getting a door ding repaired, and wanted to install a new (or working used) servo to retore the deadbolt action you describe so disparagingly, ... now I wonder if it's worth it!
Thanks! From what I've seen today, the locking mechanism is run entirely by the servo; turning the key serves only to flip a switch to move the servo, which locks or unlocks the door, or to deadbolt it. I don't see any mechanical linkage between the key and the lock mechanism, unless something is broken in mine or I'm missing something.
1st 5er wrote:Congrats.
I know you now feel all warm and fuzzy inside, despite the outside air temp.
Not really, since it happened again this weekend. More likely a sticky lock mechanism at fault, which makes me second guess my original diagnosis of a faulty actuator solenoid.
I was actually hoping to work on it tonight, but my #1 son decided he needed to borrow the car. His Honda blew a hole in its muffler, so he asked if he could use the 528 tonight. I said sure, but joked that he could use the 735 if he didn't mind climbing over the console. We left to go to #3 son's middle school concert and came back to find the Seven gone. He even had to tromp through a snowbank to get in the passenger door. Some people's kids.
More likely a sticky lock mechanism at fault, which makes me second guess my original diagnosis of a faulty actuator solenoid.
