auto x setups
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C.R. Krieger
- Posts: 14507
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: Halfway up the left side of Lake Michigan
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Call them and ask them about some R compounds. They are not always easy to find, even on the website, but a sales rep will know where they are.heym wrote:alright let me pose another question now that the first issue of brakes is somewhat cleared up...where can i find better tires that will fit 14" bottle caps, it doesn't look like there are any on tirerack, or maybe I'm mistaken, what are the names of the tires you guys use.
You don't have to go with 70 series, either. The worst thing that will happen with lower profile 14s is, your speedo and odo will be off. But your acceleration and handling will be better.
Unless I'm mistaken, I don't think these will be autoX only tires.C.R. Krieger wrote:Call them and ask them about some R compounds. They are not always easy to find, even on the website, but a sales rep will know where they are.heym wrote:alright let me pose another question now that the first issue of brakes is somewhat cleared up...where can i find better tires that will fit 14" bottle caps, it doesn't look like there are any on tirerack, or maybe I'm mistaken, what are the names of the tires you guys use.
You don't have to go with 70 series, either. The worst thing that will happen with lower profile 14s is, your speedo and odo will be off. But your acceleration and handling will be better.
If I AM mistaken, then ya, the aspect ration "problem" doesn't exist and may even help by lowering your center of gravity, as CR implied.
Jeremy
There's a lot of good advise in this thread but eurowannabe makes a good point here. As a novice, forget about brake modifications or anything else that you won't need at this point. Learn to drive what you have first and come back next time with a good set of really sticky tires.eurowannabe wrote:
The K.I.S.S. principal applies here, especially if you want to stay in a stock class! IMHO, Tires first, everything else comes later!
Don't overdrive the car, most people do on their first event until you learn to "slow down and go faster"
On your first event pay close attention to what the fast guys are doing from somewhere on the course. You will likely be asked to work the course which is a good time for you to get a closer look at how this is done.
You need to broaden your search beyond just R compounds in that size to get more choices. Or change the way you shop, I did a bit of digging and found:
Hoosier R6 slicks are available in 205/50 215/60, and 225/50 size for 15 inch.
BFG g-force R1 comes in 205/50 and 225/50
Michelin Sport Cup comes in 205/50 and 225/50
R compounds generally aren't cheap.
Jeremy
Hoosier R6 slicks are available in 205/50 215/60, and 225/50 size for 15 inch.
BFG g-force R1 comes in 205/50 and 225/50
Michelin Sport Cup comes in 205/50 and 225/50
R compounds generally aren't cheap.
Jeremy
heym,
Now that I see your wheel size, and know you're using it for street and autocross, I'd suggest a 215/60-15. That's what I had on my 535i when I had 15x7 bottlecaps and it's also what my 528e has on it now. I'm running Sumitomo HTR-200s and am very pleased with the performance. They're a summer tire, so if you need snow performance, they won't be too good.
-Shawn
Now that I see your wheel size, and know you're using it for street and autocross, I'd suggest a 215/60-15. That's what I had on my 535i when I had 15x7 bottlecaps and it's also what my 528e has on it now. I'm running Sumitomo HTR-200s and am very pleased with the performance. They're a summer tire, so if you need snow performance, they won't be too good.
-Shawn
Shawn D. wrote:Now that I see your wheel size, and know you're using it for street and autocross . . .
I'm confused. Are these track only or street tires? He's looking at R comps so I was really figuring track only based on his compound selection and comment before that. Where did you get street and track from, Shawn?heym wrote:yes these will be track only tires
Jeremy
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eurowannabe
- Posts: 820
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: Mesa, AZ
- Contact:
The only reason I brought up the rear sway bar was so heym could stay in F-stock class. He can change the front but if he adds the bigger rear sway bar he'll move to STX.LA wrote:eurowannabe - elaborate on your experience with the rear swaybar please.eurowannabe wrote:... just get better pads and a big front swaybar. You can still run in F-stock, just don't change the rear sway bar.
Thanks,
LA
There isn't anything wrong with a bigger rear sway bar. I run E28 M5 sway bars F/R and the attachment points on the front strut housings have been reinforced to handle the extra stress. The rears were beefed up as well. I love'em!!
Now, his local SCCA may do there classing a little differently. Here is the list of mods for each class that we run here in PHX:
http://www.azsolo.com/classes/car%20cla ... ksheet.pdf
This should be a good GUIDE, but check with your local club for their classing rules.
When I got back into auto-xing last November I already had most of the mods that put me into STX, I saw no reason to go backwards so I added items that would shave the most time and that came to tires and adjustable camber plates. I haven't raced with the camber plates yet (1st race next Sunday), but I estimate that these recent upgrades will shave about 4-6 seconds off my November times. By far the best "mod dollars" spent for shaving time!
sway
Thanks! I thought you may have found the perfect combo and it included the stock rear sway bar...I also have the M5 sway bar on the rear & like it but I'm always interested in the experience of others.eurowannabe wrote:The only reason I brought up the rear sway bar was so heym could stay in F-stock class. He can change the front but if he adds the bigger rear sway bar he'll move to STX.LA wrote:eurowannabe - elaborate on your experience with the rear swaybar please.eurowannabe wrote:... just get better pads and a big front swaybar. You can still run in F-stock, just don't change the rear sway bar.
Thanks,
LA
There isn't anything wrong with a bigger rear sway bar. I run E28 M5 sway bars F/R and the attachment points on the front strut housings have been reinforced to handle the extra stress. The rears were beefed up as well. I love'em!!
Now, his local SCCA may do there classing a little differently. Here is the list of mods for each class that we run here in PHX:
http://www.azsolo.com/classes/car%20cla ... ksheet.pdf
This should be a good GUIDE, but check with your local club for their classing rules.
When I got back into auto-xing last November I already had most of the mods that put me into STX, I saw no reason to go backwards so I added items that would shave the most time and that came to tires and adjustable camber plates. I haven't raced with the camber plates yet (1st race next Sunday), but I estimate that these recent upgrades will shave about 4-6 seconds off my November times. By far the best "mod dollars" spent for shaving time!
Thanks again,
LA
i can say yes to a good portion of the stock no's with the frankenshark, but the best was two autocrosses ago where i was running against kyle in his tcd turbo'd 5 in FS eurowannabe wrote:[
http://www.azsolo.com/classes/car%20cla ... ksheet.pdf
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eurowannabe
- Posts: 820
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006
- Location: Mesa, AZ
- Contact:
heym wrote:sorry for the confusion guys...yes these will be track only tires, and thanks for the rear sway bar tip, I will be doing an M5 front sway with some new OEM control arms soon, and also some Hawke pads
....you learn fast!!
The next best investment is taking a local auto-x school if this is the first time you've ever done this.
I wished they had schools when I started doing this 25+ years ago. My local club does one a year and I missed it so I'll try to make the next one.....in November! :-( Even after doing this for 7 years I know I can learn from the hardcore auto-xers!


