MyE28.com

I definitly have dead spots when it's cold. I'll have to try this. Thanks for the link!

Cris

Don't adjust. Buy a new one. World of difference. I tried 3 used ones with adjustments to each. No comparison to new. Some of the best $$ I have spent. Check with Steve Haygood for best price.

Rich

How much is new?

Johnny Rocco wrote:How much is new?

x2

I want to say mine was around the $200 mark (give or take). That was a year ago so check with Steve H. for best current prices. He was half of what the dealer price was.

a new one might be money well spent, but that price is literally all the money in my bank account. i prefer free, myself

Rich in Tupelo wrote:I want to say mine was around the $200 mark (give or take). That was a year ago so check with Steve H. for best current prices. He was half of what the dealer price was.

Sorry for the noob question, how can i contact Steve H?

Any opinions on rebuilt units? They are about $100 on Rockauto.

m.olennick wrote:

Rich in Tupelo wrote:I want to say mine was around the $200 mark (give or take). That was a year ago so check with Steve H. for best current prices. He was half of what the dealer price was.

Sorry for the noob question, how can i contact Steve H?

look in the For Sale/Wanted section. a vendors post is a sticky at the top

pdx 528e wrote:I had the exact same experience doing this earlier this week. A definite must if you have any dead spots in your powerband. Also, its a good time to bench test the thing with a 9 volt battery and a multimeter, to see that it has smooth graduated voltage increases as you swing the flap open.

Mine had no where "North" to go, so I had to try South.

"exact same experience."

Enough said.

Rich in Tupelo wrote:Don't adjust. Buy a new one. World of difference. I tried 3 used ones with adjustments to each. No comparison to new. Some of the best $$ I have spent. Check with Steve Haygood for best price.

Rich

Great. I've bought a new one off of Ebay tonight for 80 Euro's (dealer list price 520 Euro's). Must be money VERY well spend!

Sorry for the noob question, how can i contact Steve H?

www.stevehaygood.com Phone number is at the bottom.

Will this work with m20 also, is it the same design as the m30 AFM?

On the AFM refurb page it says: "Never touch the Phillips screw holding the wiper in place as this will move your angular set point."

Let's say someone did this...

Is there a way to test that he put it back in the same place other than eyeballing it?

I have moved the track "south" and installed and it seems to be better.

BTW, mine is a standard screw, not phillips.

I adjusted mine when this thread first showed up and I still have a bad hesitation around 2500rpm.

Travis R wrote:I adjusted mine when this thread first showed up and I still have a bad hesitation around 2500rpm.

Then the hesitation is either due to a faulty AFM or a completely unrelated problem. Its probably a completely unrelated problem.

to all those worried about this easy fix, Dont be. It took me literally about 5 minutes and made a great improvement, although still not the source of my hesitation problem. Still searching. But on this.. it took longer for the glue to dry putting the cap back on than the actual repair did.

For those that are still curious, as I was, the links provided are dead. However, I did some searching and found the link again, actually found two.

original site - if you can't find the article, look on the left side bar for the "AFM" tab.

pdf version

Hope this helps anyone out.

MShimon wrote:Hope this helps anyone out.

See, folks, this is a reason for resurrecting an old thread!

Thankyou for an actual reason to bump an old thread.

MShimon wrote:For those that are still curious, as I was, the links provided are dead. However, I did some searching and found the link again, actually found two.

original site - if you can't find the article, look on the left side bar for the "AFM" tab.

pdf version

Hope this helps anyone out.

Cheers for this, I never seen the original post but came across this a few days ago! I ve had a hesitation issue for the last 3 months and have replaced dizzy, coil, plugs, plug leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, all trying to fix it. Opened up my Afm today and it had carbon dust all over the track and was well worn. I cleaned the track with a cotton bud and some acetone then raised the arm and bent the connector and its a different car!!!!!! No hesitation and the smoothest its ever driven I'm over the moon! (and it was a free fix! which makes me feel a bit better about all the cash I have spent on parts trying to fix it in the past)

Thank YOU

Paul

Shawn D. wrote:

MShimon wrote:Hope this helps anyone out.

See, folks, this is a VALID reason for resurrecting an old thread!

There, I fixed it.

And btw, thanks for the new link!

Very glad to see I actually did some good; you're welcome.

as soon as i read about this last year, i immediately did it to my m20 and m30 with positive results. don't be afraid to get in there and do it. it's not rocket science and it wont take long. once you crack it open it's very clear what you need to do. just be careful with the delicate bits.

This may have to happen today.

I did mine last night at the kitchen table. Well worth the effort (except I need to get my idle nailed down)

Jake D wrote:This may have to happen today.

You read my mind, I was just thinking the same thing.

Corner Carver wrote:

Jake D wrote:This may have to happen today.

You read my mind, I was just thinking the same thing.

I did. It was pure inspirational!!

Jake D wrote:

Corner Carver wrote:

Jake D wrote:This may have to happen today.

You read my mind, I was just thinking the same thing.

I did. It was pure inspirational!!

How'd it go, Jake?