M50 swap, who’s doing or did one?

[stubble88]

Any suggestions for air intake?

[Galahad]

I use the stock elbow, stock MAF, a dumb cone filter, and - you guessed it - zip ties!

[stubble88]

Does anyone have there heater all hooked up? I guess I can just use all e28 stuff for that?

[Galahad]

I used the e28 hose to go from the heater core to the control valve and the e34 parts for the rest of the hook up. Should work but I haven't thoroughly checked everything

[stubble88]

I used the e28 hose to go from the heater core to the control valve and the e34 parts for the rest of the hook up. Should work but I haven't thoroughly checked everything

Using the e36 control valve?

[Galahad]

It has the e28 heater core control valve

[stubble88]

Let’s talk about power steering. The e28 hose will not work with the e36 pump. I do have and e28 one with res and hoses. Not sure I can swap the pulley. Or if this is even something I should do.

[Galahad]

Don't swap the pulley, the e28 pump won't bolt up to the m50 block anyway. I'm using an e34 pump and e28 everything else. Get most of the PS fluid out of the car before you disconnect anything, I got absolutely covered in the stuff attempting to be lazy.

On my m20 car:
The e28 hoses are shorter than you'd want but you can get them to reach, I'd suggest loosening the hose connections to the reservoir to allow some rotation while you're getting everything settled in. The reservoir ends up right around where you want the intake elbow, following the trend I solved this with zip ties but the correct way to do it is probably making a bracket that moves the bottle out of the way.

Not sure if that will all apply to your car since it started with an m30 but I bet it's similar.

[stubble88]

Looks like I have an e30 pump for some reason in the parts box. 1 137 951.

Eliminating the accumulator I take it?

[Galahad]

Best I can tell (based on realOEM) I have one of the two following pumps from a 92 525i. Can't tell what the difference between the two is.
32411137013
32411137083
The number you gave looks like it could work - it came up as 32411137951 for m52 e36s on realOEM. Looks like it has banjo bolt input and outlet which you'll need, I've got a m54(?) pump that has a hose clamp outlet which doesn't work unless you use a different return hose.

There's no accumulator in my system, I have the m20 vacuum boost brakes.

[stubble88]

I’m lost on this one.
I need to see a schematic of what your doing.

So your not running the cooler either?

[stubble88]

I should know this. But I’m guessing I’ll need an e36 drive shaft?

[Galahad]

I think I'm using a m20 manual driveshaft but it's right at the edge of fitting.

My PS system:
reservoir - > pump -> steering box -> reservoir

I don't have a cooler or any brake booster parts in the system

[stubble88]

I’m calling a place tomorrow about lengthening and changing the flange. I don’t think there is any other option. I need a 64” drive shaft. I think the e28 is roughly 61.5” and I dont want to max out the length at the splines.

I’ll also need to cut and lengthen the shifter some how. Everything is too far forward.

[Mike W.]

I’m calling a place tomorrow about lengthening and changing the flange. I don’t think there is any other option. I need a 64” drive shaft. I think the e28 is roughly 61.5” and I dont want to max out the length at the splines.

Given the availability of many E28 parts now, it may be a moot point, but remember there are at least 4 different E28 driveshafts, G260/5, G265/6, 3HP22 and 4HP22. Not counting G260/6 which may be the same as 260/5 let alone G280 on M5s. 3HP22 and G265/6 are nearly the same length, I've interchanged them both ways.

[stubble88]

I’m calling a place tomorrow about lengthening and changing the flange. I don’t think there is any other option. I need a 64” drive shaft. I think the e28 is roughly 61.5” and I dont want to max out the length at the splines.

Given the availability of many E28 parts now, it may be a moot point, but remember there are at least 4 different E28 driveshafts, G260/5, G265/6, 3HP22 and 4HP22. Not counting G260/6 which may be the same as 260/5 let alone G280 on M5s. 3HP22 and G265/6 are nearly the same length, I've interchanged them both ways.

Where can we find the lengths of these?
Used shafts look pricey. Let’s see what customizing them cost.

[Mike W.]

Where can we find the lengths of these?

That's a very good question. One I've been trying to figure out for several years as I've got a couple I don't know the origin of.

This will paste terribly, and I don't even know where they are measured from and to, but here goes. Big number is MM, small is inches obviously. Technically this is from Realoem for an E28 based E24, but should work.

DRIVE SHAFT ASSY FIVE SPEED GEARBOX G260/5 L=1592MM 260/5 1592 62.7
0.0
DRIVE SHAFT ASSY FIVE SPEED GEARBOX G265/6 L=1522MM 265 1522 59.9
0.0
DRIVE SHAFT ASSY FIVE SPEED GEARBOX G260/6 L=1566MM 260/6 1566 61.7

Used shafts look pricey. Let’s see what customizing them cost.

I've looked into it before. It seems rebuilt D/S are expensive and custom D/S are expensive. BMW driveshafts are expensive, period. And hardly anyone will work on them.

[stubble88]

Ok. I can get it lengthened no problem $175. But I still need an e36 yoke welded onto the shaft or swap the output flange on the tranny with one from an e28 (not even sure that’s possible). I can’t be the first one to do this. Right?

[Galahad]

Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.
I believe you can swap the output flange on the transmission but you'll need someone else to confirm that.

[stubble88]

Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.
I believe you can swap the output flange on the transmission but you'll need someone else to confirm that.

Haha. I was just going to post this.
Looks like it will work. I need to go from 96mm to the 78. Looks like I’m getting closer. But yeah. That stiff guibo means transferring the stress onto other parts.

https://revshift.com/collections/flex-d ... -flex-disc

[stubble88]

Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.
I believe you can swap the output flange on the transmission but you'll need someone else to confirm that.

Are you having any issues with revshift guibo?
So did you have to lengthen the shaft?

Would it be totally insane to run two guibo’s? The original and the revshift. That way I might not hav to lengthen and I’ll maintain the softness of oem guibo. Seems like a ridiculous idea. But maybe not.

[Panici]

Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.

I've heard that this is a tricky one to run with success.

Basically you need hard/solid drivetrain mounts and bushings everywhere. Then you have to measure to make sure all the components align correctly.

Even after all that it's going to be tough on the trans and the diff. IMO this is one spot that should be left to a racecar-only application.

[stubble88]

So now the only options are swapping the output flange (not verified). Or cutting off flange from e28 shaft and welding on an e36 76mm flange.

[Mike W.]

So now the only options are swapping the output flange (not verified). Or cutting off flange from e28 shaft and welding on an e36 76mm flange.

You might be able to use the front half of an E36 driveshaft. The D/S splines might match up. Might, I don't know.

[stubble88]

I think I might just swap the flange on the tranny.

[Galahad]

Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.
I believe you can swap the output flange on the transmission but you'll need someone else to confirm that.

Are you having any issues with revshift guibo?
So did you have to lengthen the shaft?

Would it be totally insane to run two guibo’s? The original and the revshift. That way I might not hav to lengthen and I’ll maintain the softness of oem guibo. Seems like a ridiculous idea. But maybe not.

Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.

I've heard that this is a tricky one to run with success.

Basically you need hard/solid drivetrain mounts and bushings everywhere. Then you have to measure to make sure all the components align correctly.

Even after all that it's going to be tough on the trans and the diff. IMO this is one spot that should be left to a racecar-only application.

Replying to both:
I did not need to extend my driveshaft, although there's very little spline engagement in the middle. I'm planning on making a set of guibo spacers or something when I get a lathe similar to the double guibo idea to take up space. The issue with that is you don't have the nose of the driveshaft on the peg in the end of the transmission and I don't know what that would do to the system.

I have some currently undiagnosed drivetrain vibration around 30mph but there's other things higher up on the "fix me" list. I have the garagistic aluminum motor mounts because I hate myself, so no worries on the motor or transmission shifting around but I don't know how good the alignment is. It's possible the guibo is the issue.

I'm probably going to swap out for a standard large guibo and one of these converters (which I only just remembered existed): https://catuned.com/shop#!/p/313283004/

[stubble88]

Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.
I believe you can swap the output flange on the transmission but you'll need someone else to confirm that.

Are you having any issues with revshift guibo?
So did you have to lengthen the shaft?

Would it be totally insane to run two guibo’s? The original and the revshift. That way I might not hav to lengthen and I’ll maintain the softness of oem guibo. Seems like a ridiculous idea. But maybe not.

Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.

I've heard that this is a tricky one to run with success.

Basically you need hard/solid drivetrain mounts and bushings everywhere. Then you have to measure to make sure all the components align correctly.

Even after all that it's going to be tough on the trans and the diff. IMO this is one spot that should be left to a racecar-only application.

Replying to both:
I did not need to extend my driveshaft, although there's very little spline engagement in the middle. I'm planning on making a set of guibo spacers or something when I get a lathe similar to the double guibo idea to take up space. The issue with that is you don't have the nose of the driveshaft on the peg in the end of the transmission and I don't know what that would do to the system.

I have some currently undiagnosed drivetrain vibration around 30mph but there's other things higher up on the "fix me" list. I have the garagistic aluminum motor mounts because I hate myself, so no worries on the motor or transmission shifting around but I don't know how good the alignment is. It's possible the guibo is the issue.

I'm probably going to swap out for a standard large guibo and one of these converters (which I only just remembered existed): https://catuned.com/shop#!/p/313283004/

Oh. Well there we go. I guess I can just do this. They need to adjust their wording on this so that the search engine can pick it up. I’ve been looking like crazy.
I still might just swap the output flange and add some length to the shaft. Keeping things simple.

[Panici]

I'm probably going to swap out for a standard large guibo and one of these converters (which I only just remembered existed): https://catuned.com/shop#!/p/313283004/

Looks like a good solution. Let us know if it solves your vibration issue.

[stubble88]

Anyone having issues with the length of the shifter arm? Mine needs to lengthen about 25mm so it sits centered in the hole. It’s a e36 arm. Trying to find info on different arm lengths e28, e34 etc. havnt found anything.

[Galahad]

Anyone having issues with the length of the shifter arm? Mine needs to lengthen about 25mm so it sits centered in the hole. It’s a e36 arm. Trying to find info on different arm lengths e28, e34 etc. havnt found anything.

I have one of the garagistic adjustable DSSRs, which appear to be NLA - they're selling "weld it yourself" kits now. I need to remake the center section, it's still a bit too short at the long end. I think I saw something on r3v about lengthening someone's existing shifter arm and carrier plate that seemed reasonable. I'd be tempted to cut the existing one, stick the ends into a tube, and fill it with epoxy but I don't know how well that would hold up.